The Myth of the Home Sushi Chef

One of the biggest misconceptions is that Japanese people are constantly making sushi at home. While some might dabble in the art of makizushi (rolled sushi) for a special occasion, the idea of whipping up a batch of nigiri for dinner is quite uncommon. The skill, the effort to gather a variety of ingredients, and the preparation time involved are just not everyday fare. Think of it like expecting every American to be a pitmaster – while some are, it’s not the norm.

Why Not Home Sushi?

• Specialized Skill: Crafting perfect nigiri takes years of training. The rice, the fish, the delicate balance – it’s not something you can just pick up easily.

• The Need for a Variety of Fish: Nigiri sushi typically requires 9-10 types of seafood. It’s not easy to prepare these in small amounts at home.

• It’s Cheaper to Eat Out: Preparing 10 types of fish and going through the effort of making sushi at home is much more expensive than eating at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, making it pointless to prepare it at home.

The Everyday Sushi Experience: Beyond the Exquisite

So, if not at home, where do Japanese people get their sushi fix? The answer, overwhelmingly, is restaurants. And contrary to what you might see in glossy travel magazines, most Japanese people aren’t regularly dining at Michelin-starred establishments.

Kaiten-Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi): The King of Convenience

• The Revolving Revolution: Kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants are ubiquitous, offering a casual, affordable, and fun dining experience. Plates of different colored items revolve on a conveyor belt for you to pick what you want.

• Price Point Paradise: You can expect to pay around 100-200 yen per plate, making it an accessible meal for everyone.

• Family Fun: Kaitenzushi is popular among families and friends, making it a social and enjoyable outing.

• Famous Chains: Some popular kaitenzushi chains include Sushiro (known for its variety and innovative offerings), Kura Sushi (popular for its interactive games and dishes delivered by a mini-bullet train) and Hama Sushi (a well-balanced chain with a broad menu). They’re not just for budget-conscious diners; they provide a fun and diverse range of options.

• Beyond Basic: While often inexpensive, conveyor belt sushi has come a long way from basic fare. You’ll find everything from classic tuna and salmon to more creative offerings like tempura sushi and even desserts.

Unpretentious Neighborhood Sushi Joints

Beyond the conveyor belt, you’ll find a vast number of smaller, independent sushi restaurants dotted throughout the country.

• The Local Experience: These often family-run establishments provide a more intimate and personalized dining experience than the big chains.

• The Price is Right: A satisfying sushi meal at these spots might cost around 1,000-3,000 yen, making it a good choice for a relaxed evening out.

• Quality Without the Pretense: You will experience fresh and delicious sushi without breaking the bank, and they focus on the quality and taste of the food over unnecessary theatrics.

These low-priced sushi restaurants in residential areas are recently called ‘machi-zushi’ (meaning sushi restaurants in one’s own town) and are booming among the general public.

High-End Sushi: A Rare Treat, Not the Everyday

Now, let’s talk about the high-end sushi restaurants, the ones you see featured in documentaries and Instagram feeds. Yes, they exist, and yes, they are incredibly impressive, but they’re not the norm for the average person in Japan.

The Ginza Experience

• The Pinnacle of Sushi: High-end sushi restaurants, especially those in districts like Ginza in Tokyo, are the equivalent of fine dining establishments.

• Price Point Considerations: Expect to pay around 40,000-50,000 yen (or considerably more) for a set course, and usually requires a reservation.

• Beyond the Plate: The experience at these restaurants is not just about the food; it’s about the ambiance, the chef’s expertise, and the overall ritual of dining.

• Special Occasion: It’s a destination for special occasions, business dinners, or when you really want to indulge.

The Art of Omakase

• Trusting the Chef: Many high-end sushi restaurants offer omakase (chef’s choice), where the chef creates a personalized menu based on the freshest seasonal ingredients.

• Elevated Flavors: The ingredients used in high-end sushi are of exceptional quality, often sourced from specific regions, and the preparation is incredibly precise.

Conclusion: Dispelling Misconceptions and Embracing the Diversity of Sushi

There are primarily two misconceptions that foreigners have regarding sushi in Japan: the idea that Japanese people make sushi at home and the perception that sushi at restaurants is always high-end. However, these are incorrect. We rarely make sushi at home, and we do not always eat high-end sushi.

The author has lived in Europe for the past few years and is often surprised to find that most sushi restaurants only offer tuna and salmon. Our joy of eating sushi comes from the wide variety of 30 to 50 different types of fish and shellfish, and from the deliberation of what to eat today.

If you have the opportunity to visit Japan, please enjoy this wealth of options and experience the diverse world of sushi. It will surely overturn your preconceptions about sushi.

The post Beyond the Michelin Stars: Unraveling the Truth About Sushi in Japan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

A Two-Tiered System of Chocolate Giving

In Japan, February 14th sees a flurry of chocolate purchases, but not all are created equal. Two distinct types of chocolate dominate the day: giri-choco and honmei-choco, each with its own social significance.

The Prevalence of Giri-Choco: Chocolate of Obligation

Giri-choco, translating to “obligation chocolate,” is a crucial aspect of the Japanese Valentine’s Day experience. This type of chocolate is given primarily to male colleagues, bosses, and acquaintances as a gesture of social courtesy and obligation. It’s a formal acknowledgment of professional or social relationships, rather than an expression of romantic interest.

The quality of giri-choco is often lower than honmei-choco, typically consisting of mass-produced chocolates in simple packaging. While not intended as a romantic gesture, it is an expected part of corporate and social life, and many women feel a sense of duty to participate.

Honmei-Choco: Chocolate Driven by Genuine Affection

In contrast, honmei-choco, or “true feeling chocolate,” is reserved for romantic partners, boyfriends, or husbands, as well as to someone with whom the giver hopes to begin a relationship.

This chocolate is considered an expression of genuine affection and is typically of higher quality. Often, honmei-choco is handmade or purchased from specialty chocolatiers. The cost and effort involved underscore the emotional investment in the gift.

This distinction between giri-choco and honmei-choco highlights the dual nature of Valentine’s Day in Japan, where personal feelings are interwoven with social expectations.

The Role of Morozoff Confectionery in Popularizing the Tradition

A pivotal role in establishing the practice of women giving chocolate on Valentine’s Day in Japan was played by Morozoff Confectionery, based in Kobe. According to one theory, the company was the first to initiate the idea by publishing an advertisement with the tagline, “Let’s give chocolates for your Valentine,” in an English-language newspaper for foreigners in the 1930s. Subsequently, the custom of giving chocolates on Valentine’s Day gradually spread, becoming commonplace in the 1980s.

A Visual Spectacle for Travelers

For those traveling to Japan in late January or early February, a visit to department stores and confectionary shops offers a unique glimpse into this tradition. The displays, often resembling chocolate museums, showcase the wide variety of offerings and provide a visual feast that is a seasonal hallmark of the Japanese calendar.

The Rise of “Tomo-choco”

In recent years, a new trend has emerged: tomo-choco, or “friend chocolate.” This practice involves women exchanging chocolates with their female friends. It’s a more lighthearted and casual aspect of Valentine’s Day, focusing on celebrating friendship. Unlike giri-choco, tomo-choco is not born out of obligation but rather from a genuine desire to connect with friends. The gifts are often less formal and can range from homemade treats to fun and trendy chocolates.

The Counterpart: White Day, a Month Later

The exchange of chocolates on Valentine’s Day is not the end of the story. One month later, on March 14th, Japan observes White Day, a reciprocal tradition where men are expected to give gifts in return. The custom, which emerged in the 1970s, requires men to give gifts valued two to three times the worth of the chocolates they received. The gifts are varied, and may range from cookies and sweets to more expensive items like accessories and jewelry.

White Day reinforces the reciprocal nature of social obligations in Japan, further highlighting that Valentine’s Day is not simply a one-sided expression of affection.

Valentine’s Day in Japan is a complex social ritual characterized by the exchange of chocolates, both as an expression of affection and as a fulfillment of social obligation. The distinctions between giri-choco, honmei-choco, and the more recent tomo-choco, the historical role of Morozoff Confectionery, and the reciprocal tradition of White Day all contribute to a unique cultural experience distinct from Valentine’s Day celebrations in the West. The holiday provides insight into the intricate balance of personal sentiment and social expectations within Japanese culture. Indeed, one might jokingly say that Valentine’s Day in Japan has evolved into a day for exchanging chocolates with just about anyone.

The post Valentine’s Day in Japan: A Complex Dance of Chocolate, Obligation, and Reciprocity appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

“Why Morioka?” was a question echoed not just by me, but by many Japanese.

Morioka, nestled in the scenic Tohoku Region, is a charming small city. Yet, it hasn’t been a top destination for Japanese tourists, lacking the plethora of historical landmarks like castles or traditional Japanese wooden architecture from the Edo period.

Instead, Morioka boasts a collection of western-style buildings. This architectural choice traces back to the involvement of notable architects during the Meiji era who contributed to the town planning and construction. However, this may not hold the same allure for European and American travelers.

For Japanese tourists, the allure of Morioka lies in several cherished activities:

Capturing moments against the backdrop of its western-style architecture, offering a taste of foreign exploration.
Indulging in the culinary delights of the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”: Wanko Soba, Reimen, and Jajamen.
Embarking on a journey through the city’s handicraft shops, where traditional crafts like Nanbu ironware and Morioka inkstones await discovery.

However, the New York Times chose to highlight not these experiences, but rather the city’s modest size.

They celebrated Morioka as a compact urban oasis, perfect for leisurely strolls and unwinding—an endorsement echoed by a passionate journalist advocating for Morioka’s charm.

As I became aware of the differences in sensitivity between Japanese and foreigners, I found it intriguing. This realization prompted me to embark on journeys, seeking to ascertain whether I, as a Japanese person, could experience the same sensations.

Very affordable lodging options are still readily available in Morioka.

Upon arrival, I secured a room at the recently inaugurated  “Richmond Hotel Moriokaekimae” conveniently situated opposite Morioka Station.

To my surprise, the rate for two guests was ¥12,800 (approximately $83/€76) per night. The room exuded cleanliness and was stocked generously with complimentary amenities including shampoo, cosmetics, toothpaste, and even facial packs.

Moreover, the hotel boasted a ground-floor convenience store offering delectable rice balls, packed lunches, and confections at reasonable prices.

Despite the recent surge in tourism across Kyoto and Tokyo driving accommodation costs to exorbitant levels, Morioka remains largely unaffected. This realization brought me immense relief.

A taxi driver told me what happened in Morioka after “New York Times” .

I took a taxi to have lunch from the station. I asked the driver, “Are many foreign tourists coming to Morioka?” He chuckled and replied, “Not so many at the moment. However, they often choose to explore Morioka on foot, considering it a delightful city for strolling. Hence, encounters with them for me are relatively infrequent. The New York Times article was not a great boon for taxi drivers, ha-ha.”

Contrary to the common perception that people in the Tohoku region are reserved and reticent, I found the residents to be remarkably articulate and adept at conversing with strangers. This unexpected discovery added an intriguing dimension to my travel experience in Morioka.

During my three-day journey, I encountered few Western visitors in Morioka.

Upon my visit to Morioka in March 2024, it appeared that the buzz from the New York Times had already waned.

The tourist scene was predominantly Japanese, with Western travelers being a rare sight.

The only encounter with tourists from a Western country was at a quaint Izakaya.

However, the language barrier proved formidable as the staff couldn’t communicate in English, leading to our regretful exclusion from the establishment. This incident left me pondering Morioka’s limited readiness to accommodate international visitors, feeling its size and local infrastructure were somewhat inadequate.

Nonetheless, Morioka remains a hidden gem in Japan’s northern region, offering delightful experiences for domestic travelers. Its appeal lies in its culinary delights at reasonable prices, exquisite crafts for purchase, and the opportunity to savor fine Sake at Izakayas. However, it’s evident that Morioka poses challenges for foreign tourists, highlighting the need for enhanced accessibility and support for international visitors.

If you’re up for more than just strolling through the city and want to dive into Morioka like a Japanese tourist, I would introduce you to the perfect spot you should visit.

1. Kogensha   Map

KOGENSHA in Morioka is more than just a folk-crafts store. It’s a collection of charming buildings housing a coffee shop, gallery, and store, all surrounding a picturesque courtyard. If you want to buy some MINGEI items, here is the best place.

2. KAMASADA Map

KAMASADA  is a brand producing an iron kettle called “Nanbu Tekki”. (It is a great article to know what Kamasada is.).
Strolling down the street where Kamasada sits, you’ll find a delightful array of shops, perfect for a spot of shopping hopping.

3. Yakiniku Restaurant Yonai map

Indulge in Reimen, a beloved member of Morioka’s ‘Three Great Noodles’. And don’t miss out on Yakiniku, a local specialty of Iwate, renowned for its dairy farming. At this joint, you can savor both delights in one sitting. Just a heads up: be ready to queue up, as this spot is a local favorite!

4. Morioka Tenmangu Shrine Map

This shrine is famous among Japanese literature fans because one of the renowned poets, Takuboku Ishikawa, used to stroll around here. He had a particular fondness for the guardian dog with a comical face.

5. Due Mani  Map

Is it strange to savor Italian cuisine in Japan? Not at all. In fact, it’s an intriguing fusion of culinary cultures.

Here, Italian fare takes on a Japanese twist, with dishes characterized by simplicity in both ingredients and seasoning, akin to traditional Japanese cuisine.

Nestled in a quaint and bustling corner, this restaurant may be small, but it’s a beloved hotspot among locals and visitors alike.

Indulge in the flavors of the Tohoku region masterfully incorporated into Italian dishes. Just remember to secure your reservations ahead of time, as this gem tends to fill up quickly.

Have you caught on yet? For many Japanese travelers, the ultimate joys of exploring lie in the art of shopping and indulging in delicious cuisine！

The post Why New York Times featured Morioka? A Japanese journalist set out on a journey to find out why. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

One of my friends from Europe said.

The Oki Islands encompass four inhabited and many uninhabited islands located in the Sea of Japan 40-80 km north of Shimane Peninsula. Although they are isolated islands with poor transportation, they are very famous in Japanese history.

The Oki islands used to be a location of remote islands for the exile of nobles (Sometimes even the emperor! ) and government officials. They are mentioned in many of our history textbooks.
Nowadays, the islands are famous not only for their history even for their nature, they’re designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark.
You can enjoy the stunning view which includes the impressive rocky cliff coastline.

Today, let’s take a quick look at the natural beauty of the area.

1. Mount Akahage (アカハゲ山, Akahage-yama)  in Chiburijima (知夫里島)  .

Chiburijima is the smallest of the 4 major islands in the Oki Islands. It is said that this observatory is the only one in the Oki Islands where you can see the four main islands.

I felt like I arrived in some faraway European Country.

2 Sekiheki (赤壁), a sea-cliff composed of red rock, in Chiburijima (知夫里島)  .

The cliffs are 200 meters at their highest point and were originally a part of a volcano.
Volcanic eruptions and subsequent erosion have created this impressive landscape on the Oki island.

3  Chichi-sugi(岩倉の乳房杉),  Japanese Cedar, in Okinoshima(隠岐の島)  .

Okinoshima is the largest of the 4 major islands in the Oki Islands. This tree is about 800 years old and it’s a sacred tree and an object of worship.

4  Dangyo-no-taki (壇鏡の滝, Dangyo Waterfalls, in Okinoshima(隠岐の島)  .

In this waterfall where you can enjoy the mysterious sight of delicate water spilling down from a circular skylight.

It looks like a mist shower！
The water from this waterfall is one of the listed “100 famous natural water sources in Japan”. it is said that there are many long-lived people on this island because of it’s high-quality water.

The post Let me introduce the Amazing scenery on the Oki Islands UNESCO Global Geopark. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

It is located in northern Fukushima, in the Tohoku Region,  with an elevation of 800 m above sea level.
About 3-hour drive from Tokyo Metropolitan Area, 4 hours and a half by Highway Bus from Shinjuku(Tokyo).

The area has mountains, a group of lakes, rich flowing wetlands,  a clean river, and hot springs.
Because of the cold winters, you can also enjoy great skiing on powder snow.

Despite all these tourist resources, Urabandai is still not widely known by foreigners compare to Niseko, popular ski resort in Hokkaido.

”Recently, skiers who are tired of Niseko have been coming to Urabandai,” said the owner of one guesthouse.

One of my American friends also said, “There are so many tourists in Niseko and I can hear English all over the place. I don’t feel like I’m in Japan！In addition, prices are very expensive!”.

I think it is likely that this place will become famous among foreign Ski enthusiasts.

However, today, I want to talk about cherry blossoms in this area, not skiing.

There are many cherry blossom viewing spots in the Inawashiro area, which is easily accessible from Urabandai.

Here, the cherry blossom season is usually about a month later than in Tokyo, and is enhanced by the view of the lake and mountains.

🌸1. Bandaisan Ranch（磐梯山牧場）

There are about 200 cherry trees (Somei-Yoshino) in the Bandaisan Ranch, and you can see the splendid cherry blossom road every spring.

The rows of cherry trees stretch for more than a kilometer, you can walk for more than ten minutes enjoying the flowers.

You can see the view of Mt.Bandai , which is listed on the 100 famous mountains in Japan.

On the other side of the mountain, you can see Lake Inawashiro, Japan’s 4th largest lake.

Rows of cherry trees are common in Japan, but cherry blossom trees with a view of the mountains and lake are kind of rare.

⇒ See detail

🌸2. Sakura-touge（桜峠）

More than 3,000 cherry trees are located on this mountain path. The cherry trees that bloom here are an uncommon variety of cherry trees called Oshima Sakura which has a darker pink color.

The tree planting began in 2001 to celebrate the birth of Princess Aiko to the royal family. There are about 800 trees along the Meguro River which is one of the most famous cherry blossom viewing spots in Tokyo, so as you can see this pass is on a very large scale.

Beyond the cherry blossoms, you can see the mountains, making it a very photogenic place.

⇒　See detail.

🌸3. Kannonji River Cherry Trees（観音寺川さくら並木）

The small river is lined for about one kilometer on both sides with cherry trees (Somei-Yoshino). It is  the most famous place to see cherry blossoms in Fukushima Prefecture.

This small river curves gently to the right and left, flowing quietly with clear water in its natural state without any bank protection work.

It is my opinion that cherry blossom photos are more beautiful with the addition of greenery.

🌸4. Hanitsu Jinja（土津神社）

The shrine honors Aizu’s first feudal lord, Masayuki Hoshina, built in 1675.

This area was controlled by the Aizu clan during the Edo period. Who were defeated by the new government forces in the civil war at the end of the Edo period.
The shrine building was  lost at that time, but was later rebuilt in 1880.

Masayuki is the half-brother of the third shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a historical figure who is respected for his intelligence and other qualities.

This shrine is known for its autumn leaves and cherry blossoms. You can also visit the graveyard of the Matsudaira（=Tokugawa) family, lords of the Aizu Clan.

Where to stay?

After you have enjoyed Cherry Blossom Viewing in Inawashiro Area, I recommend that you to stay at a nice guesthouse in front of a beautiful lake in Urabandai. The location is wonderful!

Bandai Lakeside Guesthouse is a small accommodation with a great view of Lake Sohara and Mt.Bandai.
It is the best place for canoeing, cycling, and trekking in Summer.

They have a craft beer tap in their dining room. You can enjoy a tasty beer after your outdoor activities.

There is a spectacular observatory within walking distance of this guesthouse.

・　Urabandai tourism official website.

The post Let’s Go to Lake District of Japan ”URABANDAI” and Enjoy Cherry Blossom Viewing! appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

The post 5 of the Best Komainu and their charms, as Selected by Takako Minoshima, Author of “Komainu Sanpo” appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Chestnuts, black beans, and wild boar meat are the specialties of the area, and many people come here to enjoy the rich food, and you can find some fancy restaurants in the middle of the countryside that have been converted from old private houses.

A trip to the green, rural area to dine on some delicious food is appealing, but this time I would like to recommend a trip with the theme of “pottery”.

The Tamba-yaki pottery produced in this area is from one of the six oldest kilns in Japan with a history of 800 years. There is a pottery village with about 60 kilns, and it is a sacred place for “Mingei” (folk art) pottery.

“Mingei” means ‘the daily necessities of the people.’ Made by unnamed craftsmen, the beauty of this pottery was described by the philosopher Mr. Muneyoshi Yanagi. Their simple and practical designs are very appealing, and recently they have been attracting more and more young fans.

If you are visiting from Tokyo, the quickest way is to rent a car from Kyoto, but I wasn’t too confident in my driving skills, so this time I took the train from Shin-Osaka to Sasayama-guchi station and rented a car from there to start my trip to Tamba-Sasayama.

The first place I headed to was the Konda area, where the pottery makers of “Tamba Tachikui-yaki” are located. If you are a fan of Mingei, this is a must-see place.

Lunch Spot: Tama no suke (玉の助）

A quick lunch at a restaurant “Tama no suke” (玉の助） specializing in “Tamagokakegohan” (a dish of white rice mixed with raw egg, seasoned with soy sauce) in the Konda district.

Place1 . Tanso Klin（丹窓窯）

The first place I visited was Tanso Kiln, where the spirit of Mr. Shigeyoshi Ichino is still alive. Ichino trained in the studio of Bernard Leach, a British potter who participated in the Mingei movement, and was a close friend of Muneyoshi Yanagi.

Small slipware dishes and other items can be purchased at relatively low prices.

Place2 . Toshihiko Kiln（俊彦窯）

Next was the Toshihiko Kiln, owned by Mr. Toshihiko Shimizu, who is also a second-generation pupil of Mr. Kanjiro Kawai.

This kiln has recently become popular overseas as well.

Place3 . Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama（丹波焼立杭登窯）

Located near the Toshihiko Kiln, the Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama Kiln is also a must-see. It is the oldest Noborikama style of kiln in Tamba-yaki and the prefecture has designated it as an important tangible asset of folk culture heritage.

The view of the woodland area from the top is also beautiful.

After the luxurious shopping experience of buying pottery while listening to the craftsmens’ stories, I went to Sasayama, a historic castle town.

Place4 . Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum（丹波古陶館）

Here, be sure to visit the Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum and see the masterpieces of Tamba-yaki.

Place5 . Taos Guest House

I stayed at Taos, a century-old traditional Japanese house that has been recently turned into an inn, with a co-working space, dining room, two bedrooms, and spacious accommodation for up to six people.

In fact, one of the inn’s specialties is “Mingei tableware”.

Why are there so many Mingei folk-art pieces inside? It’s because this inn is run by Plug, a nearby store with a large selection of Mingei pieces.

Place6 . plug (interior shop)

If you find a product you like, be sure to visit Plug as well. This store is also very sophisticated, and you will have a great shopping experience here.

Dining Spot . Shunsai Matabee(旬菜又兵衛)

In the evening, I went to Shunsai Matabee, which is run by Kinmata, a historic ryokan established in the Edo period, within walking distance from the inn.

As expected of an izakaya run by a high-class ryokan, all the dishes were delicious and beautifully arranged.

Place7 . Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori

If you want to explore more folk-art spots, head to the Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori.

The interior of the renovated samurai residence next to Sasayama Castle is very tasteful, but the restaurant is actually run by the daughter of Masaaki Shibata, a potter who is also deeply involved in Mingei, and the dishes served here are made with his pottery.

There is also a corner in the store where Mr. Shibata’s pottery is sold.

In this article, I have only introduced you to the Mingei folk-art spots, but it is also fun to wander around the castle town, which still retains the atmosphere of the Edo period.

The post 7 Places You Must Visit in Tamba-Sasayama to Discover “Mingei” Pottery appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Mt. Horaiji, in Aichi Prefecture, is one of many areas connected to Naomasa Ii. He became one of the 4 main generals serving under Ieyasu Tokugawa, and served as the feudal lord of Hikone, an area famous for the character “Hikonyan”.

This temple featuring a rough, rocky background is called Horaiji, and is the main mountain of the Shingon Buddhist Gochi sect created in the year 703.

This is a place filled with spiritual energy, where legend says that Ieyasu Tokugawa’s mother, Odai No Kata, prayed for a child and was blessed with Ieyasu. It is also the location where Naomasa, who had been targeted due to political conflict, took refuge when he was a child.

Mt. Horaiji is the remnant of a volcanic eruption 14 million years ago and features exposed rhyolite. It’s long been considered a sacred mountain in Shugendo belief.

Nowadays, you can easily drive to the vicinity of the main hall.
However, you can also get to the hall by experiencing the more majestic and captivating climb of 1,425 stone steps while looking out at the Niomon Gate and Kasasugi, which is a nearly 60m(196ft) tall cedar tree.
If you have the time, put on some walking shoes and try the climb yourself.

The view from the front of the temple is breathtaking!
Okumikawa’s scenery lacks forbiddingly tall mountains, despite its significance in Shugendo belief, and so you can visit it quite easily compared to other sites, which is nice.

Well then, after visiting the temple, let’s also head to the adjacent Horaisan Toshogu Shrine. Like the Nikko Toshogu, it’s one of the three major Toshogu shrines in Japan built under the direction of Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu Tokugawa.

A bright red Gongen-style shrine enveloped in thick trees. There’s a very sacred air about it.

Iemitsu Tokugawa, the 3rd Shogun, instructed the shrine to be built after hearing the legend about Ieyasu Tokugawa’s birth story at Horaiji.

The gorgeous architecture built around the same period as the Nikko Toshogu is a highlight.

This temple actually has a number of connections and stories related to the Tokugawa clan.

For example, this Aoi family crest is in a rare shape that was only used up to the time of Iemitsu.

I didn’t realize until being told by the priest, but the stem of the Aoi is in the shape from the Edo period, and different from the shapes found afterwards.

They had a large number of documents in the shrine office, and when I asked them about the architectural style and history of the structure, they explained everything in great detail.

The ‘Tora Doji’, or ‘tiger child’, is associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was born in the Chinese year of the tiger, in the month of the tiger (modern day February), on the day of the tiger (a day which comes in cycles of 12), during the time of the tiger (modern day 4~6p.m.).
They offer small versions of it as good luck charms for sale at the shrine office.

The story behind them is moving.

What do you think those 2 round stones in the back are?
Actually, they’re guardian dogs.（※Called ‘Koma Inu’, guardian dogs are stone sculptures often placed at the entrances to shrines, etc. They prevent evil spirits from entering holy areas.）

Dating from 1651, 1940 and 1990, the oldest is at the back and the newest at the front.
Soldiers who went to war would carve pieces from it and take it with them to battle, believing the luck of Ieyasu would protect them from bullets and other projectiles. It’s very sad to see just how small and round the first and second dogs have become. We must all wish that times of peace will continue endlessly, and the third dog will never be carved by anyone.

Despite Horaiji having such a rich history and beautiful view, it’s still comparatively unknown throughout Japan, and you can relax and experience it at your leisure.

A hidden hot spring nearby, Yuya Onsen, features a wonderful inn and it’s lovely to spend some time there and take a stroll through the area.

The Iida Line, which houses the nearest station to Yuya Onsen, is a fan favorite among railroad lovers as it runs through very secluded, mostly untouched regions.

⇒ Mt.Horai-ji and Horai-ji Temple

The post A Trip to Mt. Horaiji, a Spiritual Place Connected to the Tokugawa Clan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

He was a master of the craft who ruled over the architectural world of the Showa Era, and was referred to as “The Kenzo Tange of the East, and Togo Murano of the West”.

The Nissay Theatre in Hibiya Tokyo, often mentioned as one of Murano’s masterpieces, occasionally holds free architectural tours, so I decided to drop by.

A guide kindly explained a great deal about Murano’s nearly paranoid-level commitment to his style, so I’ll be introducing this unique architectural space while adding what I learned.

First, the entrance.

It’s rumored that some of the mountains in Spain disappeared because of the sheer amount of beautiful, white marble used. Murano was very particular about eliminating the border between the floor and the reception counter in the photo, and so it looks almost as if it has grown up from the floor.

From trash bins and stands to ash trays, nearly everything located within the theatre was originally designed by Murano.

And the red carpet of the stairs leading to the theatre floor is not actually placed on the floor, but the marble has been hollowed out and the carpet embedded. (!)

The handrail with its elegant, delicate curves, was created with the image of “a gentleman reaching out to a lady.”

One of Murano’s famed architectural pieces, the elegant spiral staircase.

Apparently, Murano was very particular about the back of this spiral staircase being perfectly smooth, and didn’t overlook even the smallest of irregularities.

If you touch it, it really is incredibly smooth, and you can almost hear the groans of the tired workers from the time it was made.

The ceiling inside the theatre is akoya pearl oyster, and the walls are glass mosaic tiles. Together they create a wide-open, dreamy space that almost makes you dizzy.

It is said that no matter how hard the skilled craftsmen worked, the task of sticking the tiny pieces of baked glass onto the wall only progressed about 10cm(3.9in) per day.

And apparently, during the final check, Murano was displeased with this corner of the theatre door marked in the photo and personally added a small accent. From the eyes of an amateur, the need for the accent is a complete mystery…

When looking at the way the chairs are aligned, perhaps a number of people feel it’s a little “insane” or “like a nightmare.”

Murano was famous as an extreme perfectionist. When taking a tour of another of his works, the Meguro Ward General Government Building, a guide said that Murano looked up at the ceiling 7 floors above himself and said “I need to move that 10cm to the right…” or something along those lines. (That eyesight is nothing to laugh at, either…!)

I asked the guide, “Weren’t there any craftsmen at the time devastated after hearing that?” to which he replied, “Well, he was a god, so…” It seems everyone at the time followed Murano unwaveringly.

The pure passion and desire to create something truly good along with an extraordinary level of perseverance created a piece of architecture which is still cherished today.

That being said, the ‘perfect’ structure originally envisioned by the master Murano has been partially altered due to unavoidable circumstances such as creating a barrier-free space, the addition of LED lighting, etc.

Although I’m not personally connected to the architecture, even I thought “Murano must be rolling over in his grave over these changes…” and felt a bit worried. If you stop by sometime, I recommend you stop and take the time to take in all the details of the building. I think it deserves to be a world heritage site.

The number of buildings left by Togo Murano is decreasing, but some remain, so if you ever travel around Japan you should definitely add them to your list of sights to see.

The post Hibiya’s “Nissay Theatre”, Designed by Showa’s ‘Architecture God’ Togo Murano appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper Japanese tea experience.

In a mountain village in Tochizawa(栃沢), within the mountains of Shizuoka (AKA Okushizu), lies Sansuien, a tea farm which has been around since the Edo period.

This farm has maintained a teashop on their veranda since the 1980’s with the desire to share local tea with as many people as possible.

Upon arriving at the traditional Japanese-style home built over 100 years ago, we first enjoyed tea and accompanying snacks prepared by Mr. Kiyomi Uchino, the ‘Mountain Tea Master’ himself.

Tochizawa is the birthplace of Syoichi Kokushi（聖一国師）, later known as the “Ancestor of Shizuoka Tea”, who was a high priest from the Kamakura period.
When returning from his studies in Song Dynasty China, he brought back tea seeds.

It’s the perfect place to experience the history and atmosphere of a village where farms have grown tea since long ago, the deliciousness of tea, and the highly formal and prestigious world of tea.

The water used for brewing the tea is springwater from Tochizawa. This water has a long lineage, being delivered from Tochizawa to Fukuoka at the time of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (a festival in Fukuoka designated as an important example of Japan’s intangible cultural folk heritage), which is connected to Syoichi Kokushi.

Excluding May, which is tea harvesting season in Japan, by making a reservation in advance you can sample tea out on the veranda, tour the factory and tea fields, and experience tea picking.

If you want an even deeper experience, I recommend participating in the tea ceremony, which is available every year in May and November. Mr. Uchino personally prepares tea using carefully selected leaves.

The first thing that surprised me was the tea being served in a champagne glass. You can tell the tea leaves are superb quality just by seeing how fine and sharp they are, like needles.

A small amount of water, about 30-40°C (86-104°F) is added to the leaves, and the first tasting is a sort of slurping of the tea.

First, you enjoy the aroma of the tea. The rich tea has a unique ‘Umami’ I’ve never experienced before. “We call this Mountain Broth”, says Mr. Uchino. Actually, broth is the perfect word for expressing the deep umami flavor. I’ve never had tea like this before!

The tea snacks are served on ‘Shizuhatayaki’ dishes, which have a history of being produced from the Tokugawa Family’s official kiln since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa. The underside of the dish looks like this.

After slightly changing the temperature and enjoying 3 tastings, Mr. Uchino says “Now, please enjoy the leave with some salt.” What?! You mean eat the tea leaves!?

At first I was shocked, but it was super delicious! Although I was having tea, it made me want to drink some Sake(rice wine).

Green tea is often served at sushi restaurants and Japanese pubs for free, so I was under the impression that compared to matcha it was a rather casual drink, but I had no idea it could be so prestigious and formal…

This is a place still mostly unexplored by even Japanese people, and it’s not necessarily easy to access, but I’d definitely recommend it for experienced travelers.

⇒ Sansuien
※If you are interested in tours or tea ceremony experiences, please contact us. ※English Support Not Available

The post [Sansuien], the Origin of Shizuoka Tea, Where You Can Experience a Tea Ceremony Surrounded by Mountains appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.