Tasty Archives - Trip Planner Japan https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/category/tasty Unconventional travel guidance Tue, 30 Apr 2024 13:16:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://en.tripplanner.jp/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/cropped-favicon-32x32.png Tasty Archives - Trip Planner Japan https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/category/tasty 32 32 Why New York Times featured Morioka? A Japanese journalist set out on a journey to find out why. https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1598 Tue, 30 Apr 2024 13:16:20 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1598 It came as a surprising piece of news to many Japanese when Morioka secured the No. 2 spot on the New York Times’ 2023 list of 52 Places to Go. “Why Morioka?” was a question echoed not just by me, but by many Japanese. Morioka, nestled in the scenic Tohoku Region, is a charming small…

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It came as a surprising piece of news to many Japanese when Morioka secured the No. 2 spot on the New York Times’ 2023 list of 52 Places to Go.

“Why Morioka?” was a question echoed not just by me, but by many Japanese.

Morioka, nestled in the scenic Tohoku Region, is a charming small city. Yet, it hasn’t been a top destination for Japanese tourists, lacking the plethora of historical landmarks like castles or traditional Japanese wooden architecture from the Edo period.

Instead, Morioka boasts a collection of western-style buildings. This architectural choice traces back to the involvement of notable architects during the Meiji era who contributed to the town planning and construction. However, this may not hold the same allure for European and American travelers.

For Japanese tourists, the allure of Morioka lies in several cherished activities:

Capturing moments against the backdrop of its western-style architecture, offering a taste of foreign exploration.
Indulging in the culinary delights of the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”: Wanko Soba, Reimen, and Jajamen.
Embarking on a journey through the city’s handicraft shops, where traditional crafts like Nanbu ironware and Morioka inkstones await discovery.

However, the New York Times chose to highlight not these experiences, but rather the city’s modest size.

They celebrated Morioka as a compact urban oasis, perfect for leisurely strolls and unwinding—an endorsement echoed by a passionate journalist advocating for Morioka’s charm.

As I became aware of the differences in sensitivity between Japanese and foreigners, I found it intriguing. This realization prompted me to embark on journeys, seeking to ascertain whether I, as a Japanese person, could experience the same sensations.

Very affordable lodging options are still readily available in Morioka.

Upon arrival, I secured a room at the recently inaugurated  “Richmond Hotel Moriokaekimae” conveniently situated opposite Morioka Station.

To my surprise, the rate for two guests was ¥12,800 (approximately $83/€76) per night. The room exuded cleanliness and was stocked generously with complimentary amenities including shampoo, cosmetics, toothpaste, and even facial packs.

Moreover, the hotel boasted a ground-floor convenience store offering delectable rice balls, packed lunches, and confections at reasonable prices.

Despite the recent surge in tourism across Kyoto and Tokyo driving accommodation costs to exorbitant levels, Morioka remains largely unaffected. This realization brought me immense relief.

A taxi driver told me what happened in Morioka after “New York Times” .

I took a taxi to have lunch from the station. I asked the driver, “Are many foreign tourists coming to Morioka?” He chuckled and replied, “Not so many at the moment. However, they often choose to explore Morioka on foot, considering it a delightful city for strolling. Hence, encounters with them for me are relatively infrequent. The New York Times article was not a great boon for taxi drivers, ha-ha.”

I had nice JaJamen at Kozukata Jajamen.

Contrary to the common perception that people in the Tohoku region are reserved and reticent, I found the residents to be remarkably articulate and adept at conversing with strangers. This unexpected discovery added an intriguing dimension to my travel experience in Morioka.

During my three-day journey, I encountered few Western visitors in Morioka.

Upon my visit to Morioka in March 2024, it appeared that the buzz from the New York Times had already waned.

The tourist scene was predominantly Japanese, with Western travelers being a rare sight.

The only encounter with tourists from a Western country was at a quaint Izakaya.

Morioka is a city of drinkers. The city is smaller in size than Sendai, but the number of izakayas rivals it.

However, the language barrier proved formidable as the staff couldn’t communicate in English, leading to our regretful exclusion from the establishment. This incident left me pondering Morioka’s limited readiness to accommodate international visitors, feeling its size and local infrastructure were somewhat inadequate.

Nonetheless, Morioka remains a hidden gem in Japan’s northern region, offering delightful experiences for domestic travelers. Its appeal lies in its culinary delights at reasonable prices, exquisite crafts for purchase, and the opportunity to savor fine Sake at Izakayas. However, it’s evident that Morioka poses challenges for foreign tourists, highlighting the need for enhanced accessibility and support for international visitors.

If you’re up for more than just strolling through the city and want to dive into Morioka like a Japanese tourist, I would introduce you to the perfect spot you should visit.

  1. Kogensha   Map

KOGENSHA in Morioka is more than just a folk-crafts store. It’s a collection of charming buildings housing a coffee shop, gallery, and store, all surrounding a picturesque courtyard. If you want to buy some MINGEI items, here is the best place.

2. KAMASADA Map

KAMASADA  is a brand producing an iron kettle called “Nanbu Tekki”. (It is a great article to know what Kamasada is.).
Strolling down the street where Kamasada sits, you’ll find a delightful array of shops, perfect for a spot of shopping hopping.

Japanese-style architecture, which is rare in Morioka, also remains on this street.

3. Yakiniku Restaurant Yonai map

Indulge in Reimen, a beloved member of Morioka’s ‘Three Great Noodles’. And don’t miss out on Yakiniku, a local specialty of Iwate, renowned for its dairy farming. At this joint, you can savor both delights in one sitting. Just a heads up: be ready to queue up, as this spot is a local favorite!

4. Morioka Tenmangu Shrine Map

This shrine is famous among Japanese literature fans because one of the renowned poets, Takuboku Ishikawa, used to stroll around here. He had a particular fondness for the guardian dog with a comical face.

5. Due Mani  Map

Is it strange to savor Italian cuisine in Japan? Not at all. In fact, it’s an intriguing fusion of culinary cultures.

Here, Italian fare takes on a Japanese twist, with dishes characterized by simplicity in both ingredients and seasoning, akin to traditional Japanese cuisine.

Nestled in a quaint and bustling corner, this restaurant may be small, but it’s a beloved hotspot among locals and visitors alike.

Indulge in the flavors of the Tohoku region masterfully incorporated into Italian dishes. Just remember to secure your reservations ahead of time, as this gem tends to fill up quickly.

Have you caught on yet? For many Japanese travelers, the ultimate joys of exploring lie in the art of shopping and indulging in delicious cuisine!

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5 Wineries in Japan to Travel to and Fill Your Heart, as selected by Daiji Iwase, Alcohol Magazine Editor-in-Chief https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1482 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1482#comments Mon, 12 Apr 2021 08:21:28 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1482 Japanese wine is often talked about, such as when it was served to dignitaries at the Ise-Shima Summit. This all started in the Meiji era (1868-1912). Although its history is quite young, it has recently been attracting attention from overseas as it has won many excellent awards at competitions around the world. Daiji Iwase, editor-in-chief…

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Japanese wine is often talked about, such as when it was served to dignitaries at the Ise-Shima Summit. This all started in the Meiji era (1868-1912).
Although its history is quite young, it has recently been attracting attention from overseas as it has won many excellent awards at competitions around the world.

Daiji Iwase, editor-in-chief of a web magazine specializing in Champagne and a writer on alcoholic beverage and travel, has selected five wineries in Japan where you can enjoy photogenic scenery and fine cuisine.

――What made you start paying attention to Japanese wine in the first place?

I think it was around 2005. Before then, “Japanese wine” had an image of being a tourist souvenir from the Showa era (1926-1989).
I had a negative impression of Japanese wine and did not think I would go out of my way to order it.

However, when I “had to” taste some of the wines because it was my job, I was pleasantly surprised at how delicious they were. I was shocked to find out that it was not that Japanese wines had not been updated, but that I had not been able to update myself.

Since then, I have considered Japanese wines to be unique among wines from the rest of the world.
At that time, there were still many old-fashioned wines, but in the past five years, I feel that some Japanese wines with truly wonderful characteristics have been introduced to the world as a matter of course.

――So, the level of Japanese wine today is improving rapidly… so in connection with this, what are the current trends?

Japanese wine can be broadly divided into two categories: craft wines made from local grapes, and those that aim for global standards, both of which produce excellent wines nowadays.

At present, wineries are actively trying out difficult varietals and techniques, and various experiments are being actively conducted, which is exciting.
I hope that while they continue to enthusiastically pursue these routes, they will also increase the number of wines that can be drunk easily and be loved by all.

――Finally, what is the appeal of “Japanese wine” from your point of view?

Because it originated in Japan, it goes well with Japanese food. Or should I say, rather than traditional Japanese food, it is more suitable for local cuisine or everyday dining.
Japanese wine producers, even the big ones, are small in scale. Because of this, the wines have an honest, handmade feel to them, and it is easy to see that the producers enjoy their closeness with the product.

The best part of it all is that it’s in a relaxed destination!
Wineries often grow their grapes on spacious slopes, on hills with spectacular views, or with restaurants and tasting corners, making them the perfect travel destination.

5 Wineries in Japan to Travel to and Fill Your Heart, as selected by Daiji Iwase.

1. SAYS FARM

photo by Daiji Iwase

This winery is located on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking Himi Bay, famous for its cold yellowtail; a real taste of winter.
This winery completely overturned my previous knowledge about Japanese wine. Not only the taste and balance of the wine, but also the design is all excellent.
It is a wine resort with lodging facilities and restaurants that anyone can enjoy.

2. Grace Wine

photo by Grace Wine

This long-established winery is located in Katsunuma, about two hours by train from Tokyo.
The sparkling wine is made by Ms. Ayana Misawa, a winemaker, using the Champagne method that is highly acclaimed around the world.
The wine made from grapes from the newly opened Akeno vineyard is also excellent.
Many of the wines sell out very quickly, so don’t forget to check out the store when you visit the winery.

3. Tsuno Winery

photo by Daiji Iwase

Tsuno Winery, located in Tsuno City, Miyazaki Prefecture, is recommended for those who want to taste the pairing of fine food and wine while traveling.
While looking out at the clear blue sky and the crystal blue sea, you can enjoy wine pairings with the food of Miyazaki, which boasts an abundance of ingredients from the mountains and ocean.
The highlight is the “Campbell Early Rosé”. It has a good balance of sweetness and freshness, and it is rare to find a wine made from this grape variety that is so lovely and gastronomic.
Speaking of gastronomy, I also recommend the Tamba Winery in Kyoto. This winery also has a restaurant where you can pair wine with local products of Tamba, such as Kyoto vegetables and wild game.
When you visit, be sure to pay attention to the Tana grape variety, which is rare in Japan and is grown on the winery’s own farm.

4. Osa Winery

photo by Daiji Iwase

This winery is owned by a couple who have worked in the restaurant, retail, and liquor industries.
They are now making wine in the city of Otaru. The grapes they use are a local Hokkaido variety, which are pretty, simple, and sparkling. While making the most of these merits, the wine also has the sophistication of northern Italy, which the couple loves.

photo by Daiji Iwase

The design of the wine is also beautiful, and it is now a rare wine that is hard to find nowadays, so you should definitely buy a bottle when you visit, or even several bottles as souvenirs.

5. Chateau Mercian Kikyougahara Winery

photo by Chateau Mercian

Japanese wine is becoming more and more popular because of its small scale and craftmanship. But if you know the power and quality of the big players, you can learn more about the world of Japanese wine.

photo by Chateau Mercian

Chateau Mercian, one of the biggest players in the industry, continues to produce wines that make the most of the charm of the land with the stable quality of its wines, which is the result of techniques cultivated over 140 years and its large harvest. The wineries are located in Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture, and in Mariko and Kikyougahara n Nagano Prefecture.

Among them, the Chateau Mercian Kikokogahara Winery is still proud of its “fantastic Merlot,” which was depicted in the movie “The Usuke Boys“. The first thing to do when you visit this winery is to try the Merlot.
Incidentally, there are many other wineries in the area, so it is fun to visit several of them.

photo by Chateau Mercian

Meanwhile, don’t miss the nearby Chateau Mercian Mariko Winery (Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture).
This winery opened in September 2019, and it was the first Japanese winery to be selected in the World’s Best Vineyards 2020 competition to select the world’s best wineries for wine tourism, ranking 30th in the world and 1st in Asia. You can take a tour here all year round (reservations required).

 

Daiji Iwase

Wine Magazine Editor-in-Chief and Sake/Travel Writer.

He is also involved in the planning and management of various alcohol-related media and events.

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5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today , as Selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo, Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries” https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1444 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1444#comments Thu, 01 Apr 2021 00:08:52 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1444 Sake is loved all over the world – even in France, a global center for fine foods. A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…! Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and…

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Sake is loved all over the world – even in France, a global center for fine foods.

A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…!
Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”.
Here, he recommends his five favorite sake breweries.
Let’s follow him on this journey and savor the whole history of this delicious drink!

–What drew you to sake in the first place?

It was about 20 years ago when I first became interested in sake.

At the time, there were still remnants of the “third shochu boom,” and sake was losing its momentum. As the boom began to pick up, I began to include sake brewery tours in my travel plans.

My theory has always been that sake tastes even better when you know the brewer and the background, so I feel that the culture of sake brewery tours has further encouraged people’s interest in sake.

–As a long-time analyst of the industry, what do you think the appeal of sake is currently?

Of course, the sweetness and richness of the flavor from the rice, but in the past 10 to 15 years, there has been a shift in the number of breweries, and new breweries have started brewing sake with new ideas, which is a great way to encounter some fresh inspiration.

–I want to visit a brewery! What is the etiquette for visiting a brewery?

As long as you follow the minimum rules, such as not eating fermented foods on the day of the tour, you should be able to enjoy the tour at your leisure without being too formal about it.

In addition to the sake production process, many breweries have a long history, so be sure to observe the details of the buildings and equipment.

If you are going on an overnight trip, you should definitely ask the brewery for recommendations on places to drink in the area.

They can often tell you about their favorite places that you won’t find in the guide books, and they usually have a large selection of the brewery’s products.
Sake tastes even better when you see the brewing process in action.


5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today, selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo

1. Umegae Shuzo (Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture) / 梅ヶ枝酒造

Umegae Shuzo

This brewery’s storehouse was built in 1860 and is a national tangible cultural property. The roof retains some of its old tiles, and it is strengthened by pillars and beams using a method called “netsugi”, making it a very interesting building.

The motto of the brewery is not to rely too much on machines, but to brew sake with the power of delicate human senses. Here you can sample a wide range of products, from ginjo sake to amazake, as well as shochu, gin, and liqueurs.

Mukyudo

A cave called “Mukyudo (無窮洞) ” which was dug during World War Ⅱ, is preserved right next to the warehouse.
This former air-raid shelter was dug out and used by teachers and elementary school students of the school that once stood there. The podium, kitchen, and bookshelves were all dug out by hand. Be sure to check out the sake brewery as well.

2.SENKIN (Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture) / せんきん

Senkin, Sake Breweries

Although established in 1806, the current brewer, who is from the 11th generation of this brewing family, has a unique background as a former sommelier. This brewery is characterized by its sake’s sweet and sour taste, which is not typical of Japanese sake, and is rapidly gaining more and more fans. While the building itself is traditional, the sake brewery has adopted a domaine (self-sufficient) style, and expresses the flavors of the region.

3. Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture) / 吉野酒造

Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture)

It is relatively rare to find a brewery that mills its own rice, and the sake brewed with natural water on the premises is really light and full of flavor.

Koshikoi (腰古井)  is a highly acclaimed sake that has won numerous awards, but Ginjo (a premium sake made with natural water and only the best part of the rice , with the outer husks removed) has also garnered many plaudits. The plum wine made with ginjo is also excellent.

4. Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture) / 松浦一酒造

Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture)

This long-established sake brewery has been operating since 1716 in Imari City, Saga Prefecture, which is also famous for its pottery. There are various types of sake on offer here, from ginjo sake to regular sake, many of which are made from Kyushu-grown sake rice such as “reihou” and “saganohana,” allowing you to fully enjoy the pleasure of local sake.

Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture)
Kappa mummy!

On the other hand, this brewery is also famous for the Kappa mummy (Kappa is a well known Japanese goblin that resides in ponds and rivers) that is enshrined there. The mummy, which was discovered about 70 years ago during renovation of the main building, probably came from mainland China and is now an important guardian deity of the brewery.
In order to promote the brewery as a “tourist brewery,” about 200 valuable and fascinating ethnic materials, such as old brewing tools and farming equipment, are also on display.

5 Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture) / 泰石酒造

Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture)

Actually, sake breweries do exist in Okinawa. The original starting point of Taikoku sake brewing came from making shochu from sugar cane after the war. Later, as the company expanded into whiskey and liqueurs, it began making sake using air conditioning and cooling equipment. “Reimei” was launched in the form of purchasing sake rice milled in Kyushu. Nowadays, it is riding the local sake boom and attracts many tourists from the mainland.

Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture)

The building also differs from other sake breweries in that it is made of concrete. In the past, there have been several incidents where neighbors mistook the steam rising from the brewery for a fire and called the police, an episode typical of Okinawa’s unfamiliarity with sake culture.


Text&Photographs by Satoshi Tomokiyo  ⇒  Twitter

Free Writer,editor. Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”. “Japan Craft Beer Travelogue/『日本クラフトビール紀行』”. “War ruins you must visit at least once/『一度は行きたい戦争遺跡』”. “Sketchy rumors, experience report/『怪しい噂 体験ルポ』” etc.

 

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The Best 5 Ramen Shops! Ramen Editor Masataka Sasaki shares the latest Ramen Trends https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1459 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1459#comments Thu, 25 Mar 2021 08:07:34 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1459 Tokyo, a battleground where a fight to reach the summit takes place every day, with the ultimate noodles and soup as the weapons. The latest trends? The best shops in the spotlight now? Masataka Sasaki, a Ramen Editor who has published many famous books has shared his top 5 ramen shops with us. −−Why did…

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Tokyo, a battleground where a fight to reach the summit takes place every day, with the ultimate noodles and soup as the weapons.

The latest trends? The best shops in the spotlight now? Masataka Sasaki, a Ramen Editor who has published many famous books has shared his top 5 ramen shops with us.

−−Why did you start following Ramen?

I liked ramen when I lived in Akita, where I lived until I finished high school, but not so much that I went around searching for new places to eat.

I then moved to Tokyo for university. After I first experienced authentic ramen at a specialty shop in Tokyo, I moved to Ogikubo which is an area with many famous ramen shops, and I started my days immersed in ramen.

Around the mid-1990s, it was the golden age of ramen when there was a “new vintage every year” with many legendary shops as “Aoba”, “Musashi”, “Kujiraken” (all of which opened up in 1996, as part of the legendary 1996 group of ramen shops) opening up and creating new trends.

Witnessing the process of modern ramen being born during this golden age was the starting point for me.

−−Every year was a vintage year! Sasaki-san, for someone who has experienced such excellent times in the past, what’s the attraction for “ramen” now?

Even for the major types of ramen broth, there are soy sauce-based, salt-based, miso, tonkotsu, chicken-bone broth (paitan), dried-sardine based, pork-bone (tonkotsu) seafood broths, and if you factor in the types of noodles, toppings as well, the variations are unlimited.

The more you walk around, you are sure to encounter a new bowl in this unlimited amusement park of ramen.

New shops open one after another and well-known shops continue to improve their flavor, and regional powerhouse shops continue to sharpen their blades. Despite your best efforts to go around to all of the ramen shops you want to visit around Japan and across the world, you probably won’t be able to finish trying them all during your own lifetime.

You may have heard of soup-less ramen (mazesoba) or noodles with buckwheat flour, but even noodle-less ramen is a type of ramen where “no rules is the rule”. If I ever find myself muttering “this isn’t ramen…”, I think it will be my last day as a ramen editor.

−−With a love for ramen as deep as the sea, it is unlikely that Sasaki-san will ever have to retire as a ramen editor. Please take a look at the latest ramen trends!

There are 5 major trends explained in detail.

●Japanese herbs

There are many ramen shops that have started to use Japanese herbs such as ginger and Japanese pepper. Recently, ramen featuring spices as the star ingredient have become popular and while we see many shops serving soup-less tantanmen that uses red chili pepper and Japanese pepper to add spiciness and a sense of numbing, creating bowls of ramen that feature a subtle, yet deep flavor of ginger as well as the refreshing flavor of Japanese pepper are particularly popular with woman.

●Western-style Broth

Recently, there have been many new types of broths appearing such as those made with prosciutto, animal-based ones made using pork or chicken bone and even broths made only with vegetables without using even seafood products such as dried fish or bonito flakes.

You will be surprised by the different impression you will get from each of these pork bone and seafood-based ramen soups in terms of taste and aroma compared to what you’ve tried so far.

●Pure hand-made noodles

There have been thick noodles in the past, but you might be fooled into thinking that your bowl is full of udon noodles, at some of the popular ramen restaurants that are serving very thick, hand-made noodles that have a delicious chew!

●Mini Rice Bowl

Rough and tumble side dishes such as having curry or rice with your ramen are a thing of the past. There are now many shops that serve cute looking mini rice bowls featuring toppings such as lamb confit, pecorino, mouth-watering chicken and clams.

●Hanging Skewer-Roasted Chashu Roast Pork

Chashu roast pork for ramen is typically fatty and voluminous, but around last year, the “hanging skewer-roasted” method appeared. This type of chashu roast pork is full of savory flavor and the slightly smokey taste is addictive.


5 of the Best Ramen Today, selected by Masataka Sasaki

1. King Seimen (Ouji,Tokyo) / キング製麺

1. King Seimen (Ouji,Tokyo)
The main specialty of the shop is a sophisticated white-dashi (white stock) broth, but the “Sansho (Japanese Pepper) Ramen” is recommended. As you slurp the curly noodles, you will feel the elegant fragrance of Japanese pepper through your nose with a fresh aftertaste. This dish is creating a lot of buzz in the world of Japanese herb-style ramen.

2. SAMAR(Ebisu, Tokyo)/SAMAR(サマル)

SAMAR(サマル)

his is a variety of ramen served only at lunchtime by the popular shop “Sakana Bal”. The salt-flavored broth is made based on prosciutto enhanced with porcini mushrooms, fragrant vegetables and herbs has an exquisite taste! Enjoy adjusting the flavor to your liking with the tapenade (savory olive paste).

3. Dame na Rinjin(Ningyocho, Tokyo) / 駄目な隣人

This ramen shop features an adventurous broth made with bouillon de legume (vegetable stock) with a high quality soy sauce based seasoning (tare). The oil made with ginger confit creates a taste that will bring a smile to your face.

4.MEN CRY(Hamamatsucho, Tokyo)/MENクライ

Men cry, ramen,tokyo

You will be surprised when you see the hand-made noodles made with 100% Japanese flour! These unique, chewy noodles are as thick as Hoto noodles in Yamanashi prefecture. They complement the dashi flavored broth very well.  Also recommended are mini rice bowls such as the daily special, rice with raw egg and the marinated egg-yolk rice bowl.

5.Marue Chuukasoba (Sugamo, Tokyo) / 惠中華そば(まるえ中華そば)

Curly noodles swim in a highly-transparent, clear soup. You can enjoy this salt flavored ramen broth which has a distinct brininess. You will also be very satisfied with the hanging skewer-roasted pork, which is full of flavor, fragrant and smokey.


Masataka SasakiText&Photographs by Masataka Sasaki   

Ramen editor.

A producer of a wide variety of content regarding ramen and food.  He has edited many books on the topic of ramen and writes a regular column for SanekiBiz.

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7 Places You Must Visit in Tamba-Sasayama to Discover “Mingei” Pottery https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1330 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1330#comments Tue, 16 Feb 2021 13:56:56 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1330 Tamba-Sasayama is a peaceful rural area, only about an hour and a half drive from Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe. It is not so well known in the Tokyo metropolitan area, but it is a popular weekend destination in the Kansai region. Chestnuts, black beans, and wild boar meat are the specialties of the area, and…

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Tamba-Sasayama is a peaceful rural area, only about an hour and a half drive from Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe.
It is not so well known in the Tokyo metropolitan area, but it is a popular weekend destination in the Kansai region.

Chestnuts, black beans, and wild boar meat are the specialties of the area, and many people come here to enjoy the rich food, and you can find some fancy restaurants in the middle of the countryside that have been converted from old private houses.

Chestnuts in Tamba.

A trip to the green, rural area to dine on some delicious food is appealing, but this time I would like to recommend a trip with the theme of “pottery”.

The Tamba-yaki pottery produced in this area is from one of the six oldest kilns in Japan with a history of 800 years. There is a pottery village with about 60 kilns, and it is a sacred place for “Mingei” (folk art) pottery.

Mingei products.

“Mingei” means ‘the daily necessities of the people.’ Made by unnamed craftsmen, the beauty of this pottery was described by the philosopher Mr. Muneyoshi Yanagi. Their simple and practical designs are very appealing, and recently they have been attracting more and more young fans.

If you are visiting from Tokyo, the quickest way is to rent a car from Kyoto, but I wasn’t too confident in my driving skills, so this time I took the train from Shin-Osaka to Sasayama-guchi station and rented a car from there to start my trip to Tamba-Sasayama.

The first place I headed to was the Konda area, where the pottery makers of “Tamba Tachikui-yaki” are located. If you are a fan of Mingei, this is a must-see place.

Lunch Spot: Tama no suke (玉の助)

A quick lunch at a restaurant “Tama no suke” (玉の助) specializing in “Tamagokakegohan” (a dish of white rice mixed with raw egg, seasoned with soy sauce) in the Konda district.

“Tama no suke” lunch set.
For as little as ¥450, you can get rice, miso soup, pickles and all-you-can-eat eggs.



Place1 . Tanso Klin(丹窓窯)

The first place I visited was Tanso Kiln, where the spirit of Mr. Shigeyoshi Ichino is still alive. Ichino trained in the studio of Bernard Leach, a British potter who participated in the Mingei movement, and was a close friend of Muneyoshi Yanagi.

Tanso Kiln

Displayed beautiful Mingel works.

Small slipware dishes and other items can be purchased at relatively low prices.

Place2 . Toshihiko Kiln(俊彦窯)

Next was the Toshihiko Kiln, owned by Mr. Toshihiko Shimizu, who is also a second-generation pupil of Mr. Kanjiro Kawai.

Toshihiko Kiln
Inside the shop.
Underneath the store is a studio where Toshihiko works daily on his pottery.

This kiln has recently become popular overseas as well.

Place3 . Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama(丹波焼立杭登窯)

Located near the Toshihiko Kiln, the Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama Kiln is also a must-see. It is the oldest Noborikama style of kiln in Tamba-yaki and the prefecture has designated it as an important tangible asset of folk culture heritage.

The oldest Noborikama style of kiln in Tamba-yaki

The view of the woodland area from the top is also beautiful.

After the luxurious shopping experience of buying pottery while listening to the craftsmens’ stories, I went to Sasayama, a historic castle town.

Place4 . Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum(丹波古陶館)

Here, be sure to visit the Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum and see the masterpieces of Tamba-yaki.

Place5 . Taos Guest House

I stayed at Taos, a century-old traditional Japanese house that has been recently turned into an inn, with a co-working space, dining room, two bedrooms, and spacious accommodation for up to six people.

A century-old Japanese house.

They have a perfect kitchen. You can cook there.

In fact, one of the inn’s specialties is “Mingei tableware”.

An example of the tableware available at the inn. You can use all the beautiful Mingei plates you want.

Why are there so many Mingei folk-art pieces inside? It’s because this inn is run by Plug, a nearby store with a large selection of Mingei pieces.

Place6 . plug (interior shop)

If you find a product you like, be sure to visit Plug as well. This store is also very sophisticated, and you will have a great shopping experience here.

Plug

Dining Spot . Shunsai Matabee(旬菜又兵衛)

In the evening, I went to Shunsai Matabee, which is run by Kinmata, a historic ryokan established in the Edo period, within walking distance from the inn.

salad of mackerel and chrysanthemum flower
Persimmon and fig salad
Tempura of mushrooms
Cooked rice with mushrooms

As expected of an izakaya run by a high-class ryokan, all the dishes were delicious and beautifully arranged.

Place7 . Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori

If you want to explore more folk-art spots, head to the Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori.

Kotori.

The interior of the renovated samurai residence next to Sasayama Castle is very tasteful, but the restaurant is actually run by the daughter of Masaaki Shibata, a potter who is also deeply involved in Mingei, and the dishes served here are made with his pottery.

There is also a corner in the store where Mr. Shibata’s pottery is sold.

Mr. Shibata’s tablewares are displayed.

In this article, I have only introduced you to the Mingei folk-art spots, but it is also fun to wander around the castle town, which still retains the atmosphere of the Edo period.

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[Sansuien], the Origin of Shizuoka Tea, Where You Can Experience a Tea Ceremony Surrounded by Mountains https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1244 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/1244#comments Wed, 10 Feb 2021 07:51:54 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=1244 If you’re looking for delicious tea during your trip in Japan, head to the #1 producer of Japanese green tea, Shizuoka, only a short trip from Tokyo. You can conveniently enjoy Japanese tea cafes, green tea ice cream, and more around Shizuoka station. In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper…

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If you’re looking for delicious tea during your trip in Japan, head to the #1 producer of Japanese green tea, Shizuoka, only a short trip from Tokyo. You can conveniently enjoy Japanese tea cafes, green tea ice cream, and more around Shizuoka station.

In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper Japanese tea experience.

In a mountain village in Tochizawa(栃沢), within the mountains of Shizuoka (AKA Okushizu), lies Sansuien, a tea farm which has been around since the Edo period.

This farm has maintained a teashop on their veranda since the 1980’s with the desire to share local tea with as many people as possible.

Sansuien.

Upon arriving at the traditional Japanese-style home built over 100 years ago, we first enjoyed tea and accompanying snacks prepared by Mr. Kiyomi Uchino, the ‘Mountain Tea Master’ himself.

Takako Minoshima, our freelance writer, can’t hold back a smile.

Tochizawa is the birthplace of Syoichi Kokushi(聖一国師), later known as the “Ancestor of Shizuoka Tea”, who was a high priest from the Kamakura period.
When returning from his studies in Song Dynasty China, he brought back tea seeds.

It’s the perfect place to experience the history and atmosphere of a village where farms have grown tea since long ago, the deliciousness of tea, and the highly formal and prestigious world of tea.

The water used for brewing the tea is springwater from Tochizawa. This water has a long lineage, being delivered from Tochizawa to Fukuoka at the time of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (a festival in Fukuoka designated as an important example of Japan’s intangible cultural folk heritage), which is connected to Syoichi Kokushi.

Mr. Uchino in the Tea field. They’re committed to pesticide-free farming techniques.

Excluding May, which is tea harvesting season in Japan, by making a reservation in advance you can sample tea out on the veranda, tour the factory and tea fields, and experience tea picking.

If you want an even deeper experience, I recommend participating in the tea ceremony, which is available every year in May and November. Mr. Uchino personally prepares tea using carefully selected leaves.

You can experience a tea ceremony inside of a traditional Japanese home.

The first thing that surprised me was the tea being served in a champagne glass. You can tell the tea leaves are superb quality just by seeing how fine and sharp they are, like needles.

A small amount of water, about 30-40°C (86-104°F) is added to the leaves, and the first tasting is a sort of slurping of the tea.

First, you enjoy the aroma of the tea. The rich tea has a unique ‘Umami’ I’ve never experienced before. “We call this Mountain Broth”, says Mr. Uchino. Actually, broth is the perfect word for expressing the deep umami flavor. I’ve never had tea like this before!

The tea snacks.

The tea snacks are served on ‘Shizuhatayaki’ dishes, which have a history of being produced from the Tokugawa Family’s official kiln since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa. The underside of the dish looks like this.

The demon’s face is said to be a bringer of good fortune.

After slightly changing the temperature and enjoying 3 tastings, Mr. Uchino says “Now, please enjoy the leave with some salt.” What?! You mean eat the tea leaves!?

At first I was shocked, but it was super delicious! Although I was having tea, it made me want to drink some Sake(rice wine).
green tea with salt
Green tea is often served at sushi restaurants and Japanese pubs for free, so I was under the impression that compared to matcha it was a rather casual drink, but I had no idea it could be so prestigious and formal…

This is a place still mostly unexplored by even Japanese people, and it’s not necessarily easy to access, but I’d definitely recommend it for experienced travelers.

Sansuien
※If you are interested in tours or tea ceremony experiences, please contact us. ※English Support Not Available

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What is “Yoshoku”? The Excitement of Eating Foreign Cuisine in Japan. https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/842 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/842#comments Sat, 23 Jan 2021 09:51:10 +0000 https://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=842 I always thought that Chinese cuisine would taste the same wherever I ate it. That all changed one day when I first tried Chinese food in Kyoto and was surprised that there was a distinctive Kyoto-style flavor. It’s generally said that Tokyo is known for its stronger flavors, while Kyoto’s food is lighter in taste.…

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I always thought that Chinese cuisine would taste the same wherever I ate it. That all changed one day when I first tried Chinese food in Kyoto and was surprised that there was a distinctive Kyoto-style flavor. It’s generally said that Tokyo is known for its stronger flavors, while Kyoto’s food is lighter in taste.

Skemasa in Kyoto. Gyoza specialized shop using local ingredients.

The gyoza that I ate in Kyoto had a gentle flavor, based on bonito stock and making use of local vegetables from Kyoto. I found that the taste was delicate in a way that I had never experienced in Tokyo.

I was always fixated on dishes like yudofu (boiled tofu) and obanzai (an array of assorted Kyoto-style small dishes) as the famous must-eats when visiting Kyoto, but discovering the “distinctive flavors of Kyoto” in such an unexpected place was an exciting experience.

I’m sure that visitors to Japan, too, will encounter experiences of this sort during their time in the country.

To take just one example, those who have traveled so many miles to Japan are often eager to try staples of Japanese cuisine such as sushi, tempura, and ramen.

Ramen.

But after sampling these, I’d urge visitors to also sample some of Japan’s own takes on Western cuisine.

Japanese people love French, Italian, Chinese, and other international cuisines as well as their own. “Yoshoku”, a category of food that has its roots in Western cuisine but has become so well established now that one could refer to it as Japanese food, is especially loved by the Japanese, consistently ranking among the most popular types of cuisine in Japan.

Popular yoshoku dishes such as Japanese-style hamburger steak (hamburg ハンバーグ), omelette -wrapped rice (omurice オムライス), curry rice(カレーライス), and Japanese-style gratin are a fixture in every town and are also standard dishes on the menus of roadside family restaurants.

Authentic, old-fashioned omelette -wrapped rice.
Recent omelette -wrapped rice.
Japanese-style hamburger steak (hamburg)
Hamburg is sometimes the No.1 favorite menu item for Japanese children.

From yuzu-scented pasta to steak with wasabi sauce and pizza with teriyaki chicken topping, you will be hard-pressed to find this distinctly Japanese-influenced Western-style cuisine outside of Japan.

“Shirasu”(boiled whitebait) Pizza.
Tacos with firefly squid.

With Tokyo now boasting more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world, the city is home to extremely high-quality flavors, as well as many chefs who study cuisine with a stubborn determination that borders on obsession. It is a journey of culinary adventure that is truly worth taking.

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What Is “Wagashi”? Traditional Japanese Sweets are Evolving now! https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/649 https://en.tripplanner.jp/topics/649#comments Sun, 17 Jan 2021 05:53:09 +0000 http://en.tripplanner.jp/?p=649 When I was a child, many people said that Sushi was not accepted by Western people because they aren’t in the habit of eating raw fish. They also said, that Nori, which is the Japanese name for edible seaweed, is also not accepted by Western people, because they don’t like to eat black colored food.…

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When I was a child, many people said that Sushi was not accepted by Western people because they aren’t in the habit of eating raw fish.

They also said, that Nori, which is the Japanese name for edible seaweed, is also not accepted by Western people, because they don’t like to eat black colored food.

Nowadays Sushi has become a very popular food around the world.
I believe that people’s opinions may have been due to prejudice.

Nowadays, Sushi, Ramen, Curry rice, Japanese food is common around the world, however, I think Japanese sweets, we call them “Wagashi”, are not famous yet.

Anko, Japanese sweet red bean paste, is a very important ingredient for Wagashi.
Many Japanese people say that Western people don’t like sweet red bean paste.

Shaved ice with matcha syrup and Anko(azuki bean jam)

Should I doubt their opinions? I think Wagashi has the potential to be a big hit in the world.

Western people are not familiar with Anko, but there are many varieties of Wagashi these days.

At convenience stores, we can find a lot of western-style wagashi.
For example, Daifuku (rice cake) stuffed with sweet filling not only red bean paste but also whipped cream, Dorayaki stuffed with chocolate cream, and so on. I am interested to find out what kind of Wagashi western people find attractive.

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