Daiji Iwase, editor-in-chief of a web magazine specializing in Champagne and a writer on alcoholic beverage and travel, has selected five wineries in Japan where you can enjoy photogenic scenery and fine cuisine.

――What made you start paying attention to Japanese wine in the first place?

I think it was around 2005. Before then, “Japanese wine” had an image of being a tourist souvenir from the Showa era (1926-1989).
I had a negative impression of Japanese wine and did not think I would go out of my way to order it.

However, when I “had to” taste some of the wines because it was my job, I was pleasantly surprised at how delicious they were. I was shocked to find out that it was not that Japanese wines had not been updated, but that I had not been able to update myself.

Since then, I have considered Japanese wines to be unique among wines from the rest of the world.
At that time, there were still many old-fashioned wines, but in the past five years, I feel that some Japanese wines with truly wonderful characteristics have been introduced to the world as a matter of course.

――So, the level of Japanese wine today is improving rapidly… so in connection with this, what are the current trends?

Japanese wine can be broadly divided into two categories: craft wines made from local grapes, and those that aim for global standards, both of which produce excellent wines nowadays.

At present, wineries are actively trying out difficult varietals and techniques, and various experiments are being actively conducted, which is exciting.
I hope that while they continue to enthusiastically pursue these routes, they will also increase the number of wines that can be drunk easily and be loved by all.

――Finally, what is the appeal of “Japanese wine” from your point of view?

Because it originated in Japan, it goes well with Japanese food. Or should I say, rather than traditional Japanese food, it is more suitable for local cuisine or everyday dining.
Japanese wine producers, even the big ones, are small in scale. Because of this, the wines have an honest, handmade feel to them, and it is easy to see that the producers enjoy their closeness with the product.

The best part of it all is that it’s in a relaxed destination!
Wineries often grow their grapes on spacious slopes, on hills with spectacular views, or with restaurants and tasting corners, making them the perfect travel destination.

5 Wineries in Japan to Travel to and Fill Your Heart, as selected by Daiji Iwase.

1. SAYS FARM

This winery is located on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking Himi Bay, famous for its cold yellowtail; a real taste of winter.
This winery completely overturned my previous knowledge about Japanese wine. Not only the taste and balance of the wine, but also the design is all excellent.
It is a wine resort with lodging facilities and restaurants that anyone can enjoy.

2. Grace Wine

This long-established winery is located in Katsunuma, about two hours by train from Tokyo.
The sparkling wine is made by Ms. Ayana Misawa, a winemaker, using the Champagne method that is highly acclaimed around the world.
The wine made from grapes from the newly opened Akeno vineyard is also excellent.
Many of the wines sell out very quickly, so don’t forget to check out the store when you visit the winery.

3. Tsuno Winery

Tsuno Winery, located in Tsuno City, Miyazaki Prefecture, is recommended for those who want to taste the pairing of fine food and wine while traveling.
While looking out at the clear blue sky and the crystal blue sea, you can enjoy wine pairings with the food of Miyazaki, which boasts an abundance of ingredients from the mountains and ocean.
The highlight is the “Campbell Early Rosé”. It has a good balance of sweetness and freshness, and it is rare to find a wine made from this grape variety that is so lovely and gastronomic.
Speaking of gastronomy, I also recommend the Tamba Winery in Kyoto. This winery also has a restaurant where you can pair wine with local products of Tamba, such as Kyoto vegetables and wild game.
When you visit, be sure to pay attention to the Tana grape variety, which is rare in Japan and is grown on the winery’s own farm.

4. Osa Winery

This winery is owned by a couple who have worked in the restaurant, retail, and liquor industries.
They are now making wine in the city of Otaru. The grapes they use are a local Hokkaido variety, which are pretty, simple, and sparkling. While making the most of these merits, the wine also has the sophistication of northern Italy, which the couple loves.

The design of the wine is also beautiful, and it is now a rare wine that is hard to find nowadays, so you should definitely buy a bottle when you visit, or even several bottles as souvenirs.

5. Chateau Mercian Kikyougahara Winery

Japanese wine is becoming more and more popular because of its small scale and craftmanship. But if you know the power and quality of the big players, you can learn more about the world of Japanese wine.

Chateau Mercian, one of the biggest players in the industry, continues to produce wines that make the most of the charm of the land with the stable quality of its wines, which is the result of techniques cultivated over 140 years and its large harvest. The wineries are located in Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture, and in Mariko and Kikyougahara n Nagano Prefecture.

Among them, the Chateau Mercian Kikokogahara Winery is still proud of its “fantastic Merlot,” which was depicted in the movie “The Usuke Boys“. The first thing to do when you visit this winery is to try the Merlot.
Incidentally, there are many other wineries in the area, so it is fun to visit several of them.

Meanwhile, don’t miss the nearby Chateau Mercian Mariko Winery (Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture).
This winery opened in September 2019, and it was the first Japanese winery to be selected in the World’s Best Vineyards 2020 competition to select the world’s best wineries for wine tourism, ranking 30th in the world and 1st in Asia. You can take a tour here all year round (reservations required).

Daiji Iwase

Wine Magazine Editor-in-Chief and Sake/Travel Writer.

He is also involved in the planning and management of various alcohol-related media and events.

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A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…!
Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”.
Here, he recommends his five favorite sake breweries.
Let’s follow him on this journey and savor the whole history of this delicious drink!

–What drew you to sake in the first place?

It was about 20 years ago when I first became interested in sake.

At the time, there were still remnants of the “third shochu boom,” and sake was losing its momentum. As the boom began to pick up, I began to include sake brewery tours in my travel plans.

My theory has always been that sake tastes even better when you know the brewer and the background, so I feel that the culture of sake brewery tours has further encouraged people’s interest in sake.

–As a long-time analyst of the industry, what do you think the appeal of sake is currently?

Of course, the sweetness and richness of the flavor from the rice, but in the past 10 to 15 years, there has been a shift in the number of breweries, and new breweries have started brewing sake with new ideas, which is a great way to encounter some fresh inspiration.

–I want to visit a brewery! What is the etiquette for visiting a brewery?

As long as you follow the minimum rules, such as not eating fermented foods on the day of the tour, you should be able to enjoy the tour at your leisure without being too formal about it.

In addition to the sake production process, many breweries have a long history, so be sure to observe the details of the buildings and equipment.

If you are going on an overnight trip, you should definitely ask the brewery for recommendations on places to drink in the area.

They can often tell you about their favorite places that you won’t find in the guide books, and they usually have a large selection of the brewery’s products.
Sake tastes even better when you see the brewing process in action.

5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today, selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo

1. Umegae Shuzo (Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture) / 梅ヶ枝酒造

This brewery’s storehouse was built in 1860 and is a national tangible cultural property. The roof retains some of its old tiles, and it is strengthened by pillars and beams using a method called “netsugi”, making it a very interesting building.

The motto of the brewery is not to rely too much on machines, but to brew sake with the power of delicate human senses. Here you can sample a wide range of products, from ginjo sake to amazake, as well as shochu, gin, and liqueurs.

A cave called “Mukyudo (無窮洞) ” which was dug during World War Ⅱ, is preserved right next to the warehouse.
This former air-raid shelter was dug out and used by teachers and elementary school students of the school that once stood there. The podium, kitchen, and bookshelves were all dug out by hand. Be sure to check out the sake brewery as well.

2.SENKIN (Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture) / せんきん

Although established in 1806, the current brewer, who is from the 11th generation of this brewing family, has a unique background as a former sommelier. This brewery is characterized by its sake’s sweet and sour taste, which is not typical of Japanese sake, and is rapidly gaining more and more fans. While the building itself is traditional, the sake brewery has adopted a domaine (self-sufficient) style, and expresses the flavors of the region.

3. Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture) / 吉野酒造

It is relatively rare to find a brewery that mills its own rice, and the sake brewed with natural water on the premises is really light and full of flavor.

Koshikoi (腰古井)  is a highly acclaimed sake that has won numerous awards, but Ginjo (a premium sake made with natural water and only the best part of the rice , with the outer husks removed) has also garnered many plaudits. The plum wine made with ginjo is also excellent.

4. Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture) / 松浦一酒造

This long-established sake brewery has been operating since 1716 in Imari City, Saga Prefecture, which is also famous for its pottery. There are various types of sake on offer here, from ginjo sake to regular sake, many of which are made from Kyushu-grown sake rice such as “reihou” and “saganohana,” allowing you to fully enjoy the pleasure of local sake.

On the other hand, this brewery is also famous for the Kappa mummy (Kappa is a well known Japanese goblin that resides in ponds and rivers) that is enshrined there. The mummy, which was discovered about 70 years ago during renovation of the main building, probably came from mainland China and is now an important guardian deity of the brewery.
In order to promote the brewery as a “tourist brewery,” about 200 valuable and fascinating ethnic materials, such as old brewing tools and farming equipment, are also on display.

5 Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture) / 泰石酒造

Actually, sake breweries do exist in Okinawa. The original starting point of Taikoku sake brewing came from making shochu from sugar cane after the war. Later, as the company expanded into whiskey and liqueurs, it began making sake using air conditioning and cooling equipment. “Reimei” was launched in the form of purchasing sake rice milled in Kyushu. Nowadays, it is riding the local sake boom and attracts many tourists from the mainland.

The building also differs from other sake breweries in that it is made of concrete. In the past, there have been several incidents where neighbors mistook the steam rising from the brewery for a fire and called the police, an episode typical of Okinawa’s unfamiliarity with sake culture.

Text&Photographs by Satoshi Tomokiyo  ⇒  Twitter

Free Writer,editor. Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”. “Japan Craft Beer Travelogue/『日本クラフトビール紀行』”. “War ruins you must visit at least once/『一度は行きたい戦争遺跡』”. “Sketchy rumors, experience report/『怪しい噂 体験ルポ』” etc.

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The latest trends? The best shops in the spotlight now? Masataka Sasaki, a Ramen Editor who has published many famous books has shared his top 5 ramen shops with us.

−−Why did you start following Ramen?

I liked ramen when I lived in Akita, where I lived until I finished high school, but not so much that I went around searching for new places to eat.

I then moved to Tokyo for university. After I first experienced authentic ramen at a specialty shop in Tokyo, I moved to Ogikubo which is an area with many famous ramen shops, and I started my days immersed in ramen.

Around the mid-1990s, it was the golden age of ramen when there was a “new vintage every year” with many legendary shops as “Aoba”, “Musashi”, “Kujiraken” (all of which opened up in 1996, as part of the legendary 1996 group of ramen shops) opening up and creating new trends.

Witnessing the process of modern ramen being born during this golden age was the starting point for me.

−−Every year was a vintage year! Sasaki-san, for someone who has experienced such excellent times in the past, what’s the attraction for “ramen” now?

Even for the major types of ramen broth, there are soy sauce-based, salt-based, miso, tonkotsu, chicken-bone broth (paitan), dried-sardine based, pork-bone (tonkotsu) seafood broths, and if you factor in the types of noodles, toppings as well, the variations are unlimited.

The more you walk around, you are sure to encounter a new bowl in this unlimited amusement park of ramen.

New shops open one after another and well-known shops continue to improve their flavor, and regional powerhouse shops continue to sharpen their blades. Despite your best efforts to go around to all of the ramen shops you want to visit around Japan and across the world, you probably won’t be able to finish trying them all during your own lifetime.

You may have heard of soup-less ramen (mazesoba) or noodles with buckwheat flour, but even noodle-less ramen is a type of ramen where “no rules is the rule”. If I ever find myself muttering “this isn’t ramen…”, I think it will be my last day as a ramen editor.

−−With a love for ramen as deep as the sea, it is unlikely that Sasaki-san will ever have to retire as a ramen editor. Please take a look at the latest ramen trends!

There are 5 major trends explained in detail.

●Japanese herbs

There are many ramen shops that have started to use Japanese herbs such as ginger and Japanese pepper. Recently, ramen featuring spices as the star ingredient have become popular and while we see many shops serving soup-less tantanmen that uses red chili pepper and Japanese pepper to add spiciness and a sense of numbing, creating bowls of ramen that feature a subtle, yet deep flavor of ginger as well as the refreshing flavor of Japanese pepper are particularly popular with woman.

●Western-style Broth

Recently, there have been many new types of broths appearing such as those made with prosciutto, animal-based ones made using pork or chicken bone and even broths made only with vegetables without using even seafood products such as dried fish or bonito flakes.

You will be surprised by the different impression you will get from each of these pork bone and seafood-based ramen soups in terms of taste and aroma compared to what you’ve tried so far.

●Pure hand-made noodles

There have been thick noodles in the past, but you might be fooled into thinking that your bowl is full of udon noodles, at some of the popular ramen restaurants that are serving very thick, hand-made noodles that have a delicious chew!

●Mini Rice Bowl

Rough and tumble side dishes such as having curry or rice with your ramen are a thing of the past. There are now many shops that serve cute looking mini rice bowls featuring toppings such as lamb confit, pecorino, mouth-watering chicken and clams.

●Hanging Skewer-Roasted Chashu Roast Pork

Chashu roast pork for ramen is typically fatty and voluminous, but around last year, the “hanging skewer-roasted” method appeared. This type of chashu roast pork is full of savory flavor and the slightly smokey taste is addictive.

5 of the Best Ramen Today, selected by Masataka Sasaki

1. King Seimen (Ouji,Tokyo) / キング製麺

The main specialty of the shop is a sophisticated white-dashi (white stock) broth, but the “Sansho (Japanese Pepper) Ramen” is recommended. As you slurp the curly noodles, you will feel the elegant fragrance of Japanese pepper through your nose with a fresh aftertaste. This dish is creating a lot of buzz in the world of Japanese herb-style ramen.

2. SAMAR（Ebisu, Tokyo）/SAMAR（サマル）

his is a variety of ramen served only at lunchtime by the popular shop “Sakana Bal”. The salt-flavored broth is made based on prosciutto enhanced with porcini mushrooms, fragrant vegetables and herbs has an exquisite taste! Enjoy adjusting the flavor to your liking with the tapenade (savory olive paste).

3. Dame na Rinjin(Ningyocho, Tokyo) / 駄目な隣人

This ramen shop features an adventurous broth made with bouillon de legume (vegetable stock) with a high quality soy sauce based seasoning (tare). The oil made with ginger confit creates a taste that will bring a smile to your face.

４．MEN CRY（Hamamatsucho, Tokyo）/MENクライ

You will be surprised when you see the hand-made noodles made with 100% Japanese flour! These unique, chewy noodles are as thick as Hoto noodles in Yamanashi prefecture. They complement the dashi flavored broth very well.  Also recommended are mini rice bowls such as the daily special, rice with raw egg and the marinated egg-yolk rice bowl.

５．Marue Chuukasoba (Sugamo, Tokyo) / 惠中華そば（まるえ中華そば）

Curly noodles swim in a highly-transparent, clear soup. You can enjoy this salt flavored ramen broth which has a distinct brininess. You will also be very satisfied with the hanging skewer-roasted pork, which is full of flavor, fragrant and smokey.

Text&Photographs by Masataka Sasaki   

Ramen editor.

A producer of a wide variety of content regarding ramen and food.  He has edited many books on the topic of ramen and writes a regular column for SanekiBiz.

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If you’re traveling in Japan, a railway trip is something I am sure you would enjoy.

Japanese railways are famous worldwide for being on time, so much so that an apology is broadcast if a train is just two minutes late. But this almost neurotic degree of precision is not the only reason they’re famous.

If you take a ride on local lines that use trains with just two carriages, you will pass beautiful beaches, mountains, and tranquil countryside. You will surely encounter the kind of Japanese scenery to be found in Ghibli films.

In Japan, trains run far and wide across the entire country, and there are “train nerds” in abundance to go with them: enthusiasts who, for their sheer variety, can hardly be compared to their to their fellow train enthusiasts around the world.

There are people that just love riding trains, those that love taking photos of them, those that simply enjoy listening to their different chimes and whistles, those that research the interiors, exteriors, and equipment of the carriages, those that love to collect tickets and railways merchandise, those that enjoy researching their timetables, those that love the special lunchboxes on sale at major stations across the country, and more.

There is a name for each and every one of these types of obsessions, from Toritetsu (people that love taking photos of trains), to Noritetsu (people that love riding trains). In recent times, young female fashion models and teen icons have confessed to being train nerds, and the idea that railways are only a hobby for men has changed.

In the inner-city area, there is more often a prevailing perception of trains as mere modes of transport to carry the tired population to work and back home each day. But in more rural areas, you will find people obsessed with railways, enjoying their journeys with their camera and train timetable in hand.

Buying some beer and a lunchbox at the station, and gazing out of the window while enjoying your meal, is nothing short of paradise.

 

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In fact, railway companies in Japan do not simply seek to provide a mere means of transport. Instead, they set out to create an all-around railway experience every day.

Each railway company has tried out various unique selling points: including a sake sommelier on a local train, creating an almost bar-like atmosphere, and a special Shinkansen with the concept of a “moving modern art museum”.

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One railway company hired a world famous architect and winner of The Pritzker Architecture Prize to design the interiors of their carriages. Another found a Michelin-starred chef to design its menus. There is never a shortage of railway-related topics to talk about.

Just why are there so many different types of train nerds here in Japan? How about taking a train trip in Japan and finding out for yourself?

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I would answer the following.

There are about 6,800 islands that make up Japan, and about 75% of the country is covered in mountains.
Many of the few natural plains became cities. For example, Tokyo is built upon the Kanto Plain, the largest plain in Japan.
In short, Japan is a country full of big cities, oceans, and mountains.

Where do you want to go first?
If you want to experience a little bit of everything, I would recommend you Tokyo.
As you know, Tokyo is the biggest city in Japan. You can enjoy gourmet food from all over the country and the world, museums, shopping malls, and historical sites from the Edo period.

Also, even Tokyo features some mountains.

Mt.Takao, Mt. Mitake is a very famous day-trip destination.
There are also many mountains in the neighboring prefecture of Kanagawa, which is similar to Tokyo because it is in the Tokyo metropolitan area, and so it’s suitable for a day-trip.

Okutama, Tokyo

Kamakura town has a lot of small mountains perfect for a novice hiker.
Mount Oyama in Kanagawa has been regarded as a holy mountain since the middle ages. You can enjoy not only hiking but also visiting the historical shrine and getting a great view of Mt. Fuji.
Tokyo also has many beaches. The most convenient beach is man-made ODAIBA BEACH. You can get there in just 20min by train from central Tokyo.

Odaiba Beach

If you are looking for a natural beach experience, I would recommend the Izu Seven Islands. These islands are accessible by ferry from the pier in central Tokyo as well.

Do you prefer mountains? If so, I’d recommend you, Nagano prefecture.
It is referred to as the Roof of Japan, and there are hundreds of mountain trails scattered throughout the countryside. We call these mountains the Japanese Alps.

Nagano prefecture is not so far from Tokyo. You can get there in just 2-3 hours by train from Tokyo. There are also many charter buses that run between Nagano and Tokyo.
In winter, people enjoy skiing and relaxing in hot springs while surrounded by snow.
In Nagano, wild monkeys also enjoy bathing in the hot springs!

Do you like the beach? If so, Okinawa is the best place for you.
It is the southernmost prefecture in Japan. It is a completely tropical island, with an average daytime temperature of 21 degrees Celsius even in December.
It features breath-takingly stunning islands and beaches. You can enjoy exploring beautiful coral reefs and seeing tropical fish up close and personal by snorkeling or scuba diving.

Zamami Island, Okinawa

Are you interested in culture and history, not topography?
If so, have no fear!

As a result of the division of cultural spheres caused by natural borders such as mountains and the sea, Japan has a surprisingly wide variety of dialects, cultures, and local food.
Until the Edo period (1603-1868), Japan was a collection of as many as 300 “clans”, each of them being similar to small, independent countries.

Sakata, Yamagata

After the Meiji Restoration, Japan was officially unified as a single country, but that was a mere 150 years ago.
Therefore, if you travel around Japan, you’ll be surprised to discover the culture and remnants of the “clan” era still exist and are present in daily life.
Each and every area in Japan has a long history and features its own unique culture.

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Holy mountain, Mt. Fuji is also Power Spot

Kudaka is an Island of Prayer and Sacred Ritual in Okinawa.

Takuhi shrine, Shimane. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of safe sea voyages.

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