Chestnuts, black beans, and wild boar meat are the specialties of the area, and many people come here to enjoy the rich food, and you can find some fancy restaurants in the middle of the countryside that have been converted from old private houses.

A trip to the green, rural area to dine on some delicious food is appealing, but this time I would like to recommend a trip with the theme of “pottery”.

The Tamba-yaki pottery produced in this area is from one of the six oldest kilns in Japan with a history of 800 years. There is a pottery village with about 60 kilns, and it is a sacred place for “Mingei” (folk art) pottery.

“Mingei” means ‘the daily necessities of the people.’ Made by unnamed craftsmen, the beauty of this pottery was described by the philosopher Mr. Muneyoshi Yanagi. Their simple and practical designs are very appealing, and recently they have been attracting more and more young fans.

If you are visiting from Tokyo, the quickest way is to rent a car from Kyoto, but I wasn’t too confident in my driving skills, so this time I took the train from Shin-Osaka to Sasayama-guchi station and rented a car from there to start my trip to Tamba-Sasayama.

The first place I headed to was the Konda area, where the pottery makers of “Tamba Tachikui-yaki” are located. If you are a fan of Mingei, this is a must-see place.

Lunch Spot: Tama no suke (玉の助）

A quick lunch at a restaurant “Tama no suke” (玉の助） specializing in “Tamagokakegohan” (a dish of white rice mixed with raw egg, seasoned with soy sauce) in the Konda district.

Place1 . Tanso Klin（丹窓窯）

The first place I visited was Tanso Kiln, where the spirit of Mr. Shigeyoshi Ichino is still alive. Ichino trained in the studio of Bernard Leach, a British potter who participated in the Mingei movement, and was a close friend of Muneyoshi Yanagi.

Small slipware dishes and other items can be purchased at relatively low prices.

Place2 . Toshihiko Kiln（俊彦窯）

Next was the Toshihiko Kiln, owned by Mr. Toshihiko Shimizu, who is also a second-generation pupil of Mr. Kanjiro Kawai.

This kiln has recently become popular overseas as well.

Place3 . Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama（丹波焼立杭登窯）

Located near the Toshihiko Kiln, the Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama Kiln is also a must-see. It is the oldest Noborikama style of kiln in Tamba-yaki and the prefecture has designated it as an important tangible asset of folk culture heritage.

The view of the woodland area from the top is also beautiful.

After the luxurious shopping experience of buying pottery while listening to the craftsmens’ stories, I went to Sasayama, a historic castle town.

Place4 . Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum（丹波古陶館）

Here, be sure to visit the Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum and see the masterpieces of Tamba-yaki.

Place5 . Taos Guest House

I stayed at Taos, a century-old traditional Japanese house that has been recently turned into an inn, with a co-working space, dining room, two bedrooms, and spacious accommodation for up to six people.

In fact, one of the inn’s specialties is “Mingei tableware”.

Why are there so many Mingei folk-art pieces inside? It’s because this inn is run by Plug, a nearby store with a large selection of Mingei pieces.

Place6 . plug (interior shop)

If you find a product you like, be sure to visit Plug as well. This store is also very sophisticated, and you will have a great shopping experience here.

Dining Spot . Shunsai Matabee(旬菜又兵衛)

In the evening, I went to Shunsai Matabee, which is run by Kinmata, a historic ryokan established in the Edo period, within walking distance from the inn.

As expected of an izakaya run by a high-class ryokan, all the dishes were delicious and beautifully arranged.

Place7 . Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori

If you want to explore more folk-art spots, head to the Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori.

The interior of the renovated samurai residence next to Sasayama Castle is very tasteful, but the restaurant is actually run by the daughter of Masaaki Shibata, a potter who is also deeply involved in Mingei, and the dishes served here are made with his pottery.

There is also a corner in the store where Mr. Shibata’s pottery is sold.

In this article, I have only introduced you to the Mingei folk-art spots, but it is also fun to wander around the castle town, which still retains the atmosphere of the Edo period.

The post 7 Places You Must Visit in Tamba-Sasayama to Discover “Mingei” Pottery appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

He was a master of the craft who ruled over the architectural world of the Showa Era, and was referred to as “The Kenzo Tange of the East, and Togo Murano of the West”.

The Nissay Theatre in Hibiya Tokyo, often mentioned as one of Murano’s masterpieces, occasionally holds free architectural tours, so I decided to drop by.

A guide kindly explained a great deal about Murano’s nearly paranoid-level commitment to his style, so I’ll be introducing this unique architectural space while adding what I learned.

First, the entrance.

It’s rumored that some of the mountains in Spain disappeared because of the sheer amount of beautiful, white marble used. Murano was very particular about eliminating the border between the floor and the reception counter in the photo, and so it looks almost as if it has grown up from the floor.

From trash bins and stands to ash trays, nearly everything located within the theatre was originally designed by Murano.

And the red carpet of the stairs leading to the theatre floor is not actually placed on the floor, but the marble has been hollowed out and the carpet embedded. (!)

The handrail with its elegant, delicate curves, was created with the image of “a gentleman reaching out to a lady.”

One of Murano’s famed architectural pieces, the elegant spiral staircase.

Apparently, Murano was very particular about the back of this spiral staircase being perfectly smooth, and didn’t overlook even the smallest of irregularities.

If you touch it, it really is incredibly smooth, and you can almost hear the groans of the tired workers from the time it was made.

The ceiling inside the theatre is akoya pearl oyster, and the walls are glass mosaic tiles. Together they create a wide-open, dreamy space that almost makes you dizzy.

It is said that no matter how hard the skilled craftsmen worked, the task of sticking the tiny pieces of baked glass onto the wall only progressed about 10cm(3.9in) per day.

And apparently, during the final check, Murano was displeased with this corner of the theatre door marked in the photo and personally added a small accent. From the eyes of an amateur, the need for the accent is a complete mystery…

When looking at the way the chairs are aligned, perhaps a number of people feel it’s a little “insane” or “like a nightmare.”

Murano was famous as an extreme perfectionist. When taking a tour of another of his works, the Meguro Ward General Government Building, a guide said that Murano looked up at the ceiling 7 floors above himself and said “I need to move that 10cm to the right…” or something along those lines. (That eyesight is nothing to laugh at, either…!)

I asked the guide, “Weren’t there any craftsmen at the time devastated after hearing that?” to which he replied, “Well, he was a god, so…” It seems everyone at the time followed Murano unwaveringly.

The pure passion and desire to create something truly good along with an extraordinary level of perseverance created a piece of architecture which is still cherished today.

That being said, the ‘perfect’ structure originally envisioned by the master Murano has been partially altered due to unavoidable circumstances such as creating a barrier-free space, the addition of LED lighting, etc.

Although I’m not personally connected to the architecture, even I thought “Murano must be rolling over in his grave over these changes…” and felt a bit worried. If you stop by sometime, I recommend you stop and take the time to take in all the details of the building. I think it deserves to be a world heritage site.

The number of buildings left by Togo Murano is decreasing, but some remain, so if you ever travel around Japan you should definitely add them to your list of sights to see.

The post Hibiya’s “Nissay Theatre”, Designed by Showa’s ‘Architecture God’ Togo Murano appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper Japanese tea experience.

In a mountain village in Tochizawa(栃沢), within the mountains of Shizuoka (AKA Okushizu), lies Sansuien, a tea farm which has been around since the Edo period.

This farm has maintained a teashop on their veranda since the 1980’s with the desire to share local tea with as many people as possible.

Upon arriving at the traditional Japanese-style home built over 100 years ago, we first enjoyed tea and accompanying snacks prepared by Mr. Kiyomi Uchino, the ‘Mountain Tea Master’ himself.

Tochizawa is the birthplace of Syoichi Kokushi（聖一国師）, later known as the “Ancestor of Shizuoka Tea”, who was a high priest from the Kamakura period.
When returning from his studies in Song Dynasty China, he brought back tea seeds.

It’s the perfect place to experience the history and atmosphere of a village where farms have grown tea since long ago, the deliciousness of tea, and the highly formal and prestigious world of tea.

The water used for brewing the tea is springwater from Tochizawa. This water has a long lineage, being delivered from Tochizawa to Fukuoka at the time of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (a festival in Fukuoka designated as an important example of Japan’s intangible cultural folk heritage), which is connected to Syoichi Kokushi.

Excluding May, which is tea harvesting season in Japan, by making a reservation in advance you can sample tea out on the veranda, tour the factory and tea fields, and experience tea picking.

If you want an even deeper experience, I recommend participating in the tea ceremony, which is available every year in May and November. Mr. Uchino personally prepares tea using carefully selected leaves.

The first thing that surprised me was the tea being served in a champagne glass. You can tell the tea leaves are superb quality just by seeing how fine and sharp they are, like needles.

A small amount of water, about 30-40°C (86-104°F) is added to the leaves, and the first tasting is a sort of slurping of the tea.

First, you enjoy the aroma of the tea. The rich tea has a unique ‘Umami’ I’ve never experienced before. “We call this Mountain Broth”, says Mr. Uchino. Actually, broth is the perfect word for expressing the deep umami flavor. I’ve never had tea like this before!

The tea snacks are served on ‘Shizuhatayaki’ dishes, which have a history of being produced from the Tokugawa Family’s official kiln since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa. The underside of the dish looks like this.

After slightly changing the temperature and enjoying 3 tastings, Mr. Uchino says “Now, please enjoy the leave with some salt.” What?! You mean eat the tea leaves!?

At first I was shocked, but it was super delicious! Although I was having tea, it made me want to drink some Sake(rice wine).

Green tea is often served at sushi restaurants and Japanese pubs for free, so I was under the impression that compared to matcha it was a rather casual drink, but I had no idea it could be so prestigious and formal…

This is a place still mostly unexplored by even Japanese people, and it’s not necessarily easy to access, but I’d definitely recommend it for experienced travelers.

⇒ Sansuien
※If you are interested in tours or tea ceremony experiences, please contact us. ※English Support Not Available

The post [Sansuien], the Origin of Shizuoka Tea, Where You Can Experience a Tea Ceremony Surrounded by Mountains appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Even if world-famous product designers such as Jasper Morrison, Konstantin Grcic, or Naoto Fukasawa designed MUJI’s products, they never divulge the name of the designer on the products, keeping the philosophy of the brand “Muji”.

He believed that beauty resides in practical handicrafts made for the common people not luxury goods.

It used to be thought that there was no beauty in the mundane things that were used every day by common people, but the movement of Yanagi and others brought the beauty of common things into the limelight. Now there are stores all over Japan that specialize in selling Mingei works and museums that exhibit only Mingei.

It is no surprise that Naoto Fukasawa, who was involved in many of MUJI’s product development projects was appointed as the director of Nihon Mingei Kan (The Japan Folk Crafts Museum) in Tokyo, the first and most respected of the many Mingei museums in Japan.

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