Mt. Horaiji, in Aichi Prefecture, is one of many areas connected to Naomasa Ii. He became one of the 4 main generals serving under Ieyasu Tokugawa, and served as the feudal lord of Hikone, an area famous for the character “Hikonyan”.

This temple featuring a rough, rocky background is called Horaiji, and is the main mountain of the Shingon Buddhist Gochi sect created in the year 703.

This is a place filled with spiritual energy, where legend says that Ieyasu Tokugawa’s mother, Odai No Kata, prayed for a child and was blessed with Ieyasu. It is also the location where Naomasa, who had been targeted due to political conflict, took refuge when he was a child.

Mt. Horaiji is the remnant of a volcanic eruption 14 million years ago and features exposed rhyolite. It’s long been considered a sacred mountain in Shugendo belief.

Nowadays, you can easily drive to the vicinity of the main hall.
However, you can also get to the hall by experiencing the more majestic and captivating climb of 1,425 stone steps while looking out at the Niomon Gate and Kasasugi, which is a nearly 60m(196ft) tall cedar tree.
If you have the time, put on some walking shoes and try the climb yourself.

The view from the front of the temple is breathtaking!
Okumikawa’s scenery lacks forbiddingly tall mountains, despite its significance in Shugendo belief, and so you can visit it quite easily compared to other sites, which is nice.

Well then, after visiting the temple, let’s also head to the adjacent Horaisan Toshogu Shrine. Like the Nikko Toshogu, it’s one of the three major Toshogu shrines in Japan built under the direction of Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu Tokugawa.

A bright red Gongen-style shrine enveloped in thick trees. There’s a very sacred air about it.

Iemitsu Tokugawa, the 3rd Shogun, instructed the shrine to be built after hearing the legend about Ieyasu Tokugawa’s birth story at Horaiji.

The gorgeous architecture built around the same period as the Nikko Toshogu is a highlight.

This temple actually has a number of connections and stories related to the Tokugawa clan.

For example, this Aoi family crest is in a rare shape that was only used up to the time of Iemitsu.

I didn’t realize until being told by the priest, but the stem of the Aoi is in the shape from the Edo period, and different from the shapes found afterwards.

They had a large number of documents in the shrine office, and when I asked them about the architectural style and history of the structure, they explained everything in great detail.

The ‘Tora Doji’, or ‘tiger child’, is associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was born in the Chinese year of the tiger, in the month of the tiger (modern day February), on the day of the tiger (a day which comes in cycles of 12), during the time of the tiger (modern day 4~6p.m.).
They offer small versions of it as good luck charms for sale at the shrine office.

The story behind them is moving.

What do you think those 2 round stones in the back are?
Actually, they’re guardian dogs.（※Called ‘Koma Inu’, guardian dogs are stone sculptures often placed at the entrances to shrines, etc. They prevent evil spirits from entering holy areas.）

Dating from 1651, 1940 and 1990, the oldest is at the back and the newest at the front.
Soldiers who went to war would carve pieces from it and take it with them to battle, believing the luck of Ieyasu would protect them from bullets and other projectiles. It’s very sad to see just how small and round the first and second dogs have become. We must all wish that times of peace will continue endlessly, and the third dog will never be carved by anyone.

Despite Horaiji having such a rich history and beautiful view, it’s still comparatively unknown throughout Japan, and you can relax and experience it at your leisure.

A hidden hot spring nearby, Yuya Onsen, features a wonderful inn and it’s lovely to spend some time there and take a stroll through the area.

The Iida Line, which houses the nearest station to Yuya Onsen, is a fan favorite among railroad lovers as it runs through very secluded, mostly untouched regions.

⇒ Mt.Horai-ji and Horai-ji Temple

The post A Trip to Mt. Horaiji, a Spiritual Place Connected to the Tokugawa Clan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.