“Why Morioka?” was a question echoed not just by me, but by many Japanese.

Morioka, nestled in the scenic Tohoku Region, is a charming small city. Yet, it hasn’t been a top destination for Japanese tourists, lacking the plethora of historical landmarks like castles or traditional Japanese wooden architecture from the Edo period.

Instead, Morioka boasts a collection of western-style buildings. This architectural choice traces back to the involvement of notable architects during the Meiji era who contributed to the town planning and construction. However, this may not hold the same allure for European and American travelers.

For Japanese tourists, the allure of Morioka lies in several cherished activities:

Capturing moments against the backdrop of its western-style architecture, offering a taste of foreign exploration.
Indulging in the culinary delights of the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”: Wanko Soba, Reimen, and Jajamen.
Embarking on a journey through the city’s handicraft shops, where traditional crafts like Nanbu ironware and Morioka inkstones await discovery.

However, the New York Times chose to highlight not these experiences, but rather the city’s modest size.

They celebrated Morioka as a compact urban oasis, perfect for leisurely strolls and unwinding—an endorsement echoed by a passionate journalist advocating for Morioka’s charm.

As I became aware of the differences in sensitivity between Japanese and foreigners, I found it intriguing. This realization prompted me to embark on journeys, seeking to ascertain whether I, as a Japanese person, could experience the same sensations.

Very affordable lodging options are still readily available in Morioka.

Upon arrival, I secured a room at the recently inaugurated  “Richmond Hotel Moriokaekimae” conveniently situated opposite Morioka Station.

To my surprise, the rate for two guests was ¥12,800 (approximately $83/€76) per night. The room exuded cleanliness and was stocked generously with complimentary amenities including shampoo, cosmetics, toothpaste, and even facial packs.

Moreover, the hotel boasted a ground-floor convenience store offering delectable rice balls, packed lunches, and confections at reasonable prices.

Despite the recent surge in tourism across Kyoto and Tokyo driving accommodation costs to exorbitant levels, Morioka remains largely unaffected. This realization brought me immense relief.

A taxi driver told me what happened in Morioka after “New York Times” .

I took a taxi to have lunch from the station. I asked the driver, “Are many foreign tourists coming to Morioka?” He chuckled and replied, “Not so many at the moment. However, they often choose to explore Morioka on foot, considering it a delightful city for strolling. Hence, encounters with them for me are relatively infrequent. The New York Times article was not a great boon for taxi drivers, ha-ha.”

Contrary to the common perception that people in the Tohoku region are reserved and reticent, I found the residents to be remarkably articulate and adept at conversing with strangers. This unexpected discovery added an intriguing dimension to my travel experience in Morioka.

During my three-day journey, I encountered few Western visitors in Morioka.

Upon my visit to Morioka in March 2024, it appeared that the buzz from the New York Times had already waned.

The tourist scene was predominantly Japanese, with Western travelers being a rare sight.

The only encounter with tourists from a Western country was at a quaint Izakaya.

However, the language barrier proved formidable as the staff couldn’t communicate in English, leading to our regretful exclusion from the establishment. This incident left me pondering Morioka’s limited readiness to accommodate international visitors, feeling its size and local infrastructure were somewhat inadequate.

Nonetheless, Morioka remains a hidden gem in Japan’s northern region, offering delightful experiences for domestic travelers. Its appeal lies in its culinary delights at reasonable prices, exquisite crafts for purchase, and the opportunity to savor fine Sake at Izakayas. However, it’s evident that Morioka poses challenges for foreign tourists, highlighting the need for enhanced accessibility and support for international visitors.

If you’re up for more than just strolling through the city and want to dive into Morioka like a Japanese tourist, I would introduce you to the perfect spot you should visit.

1. Kogensha   Map

KOGENSHA in Morioka is more than just a folk-crafts store. It’s a collection of charming buildings housing a coffee shop, gallery, and store, all surrounding a picturesque courtyard. If you want to buy some MINGEI items, here is the best place.

2. KAMASADA Map

KAMASADA  is a brand producing an iron kettle called “Nanbu Tekki”. (It is a great article to know what Kamasada is.).
Strolling down the street where Kamasada sits, you’ll find a delightful array of shops, perfect for a spot of shopping hopping.

3. Yakiniku Restaurant Yonai map

Indulge in Reimen, a beloved member of Morioka’s ‘Three Great Noodles’. And don’t miss out on Yakiniku, a local specialty of Iwate, renowned for its dairy farming. At this joint, you can savor both delights in one sitting. Just a heads up: be ready to queue up, as this spot is a local favorite!

4. Morioka Tenmangu Shrine Map

This shrine is famous among Japanese literature fans because one of the renowned poets, Takuboku Ishikawa, used to stroll around here. He had a particular fondness for the guardian dog with a comical face.

5. Due Mani  Map

Is it strange to savor Italian cuisine in Japan? Not at all. In fact, it’s an intriguing fusion of culinary cultures.

Here, Italian fare takes on a Japanese twist, with dishes characterized by simplicity in both ingredients and seasoning, akin to traditional Japanese cuisine.

Nestled in a quaint and bustling corner, this restaurant may be small, but it’s a beloved hotspot among locals and visitors alike.

Indulge in the flavors of the Tohoku region masterfully incorporated into Italian dishes. Just remember to secure your reservations ahead of time, as this gem tends to fill up quickly.

Have you caught on yet? For many Japanese travelers, the ultimate joys of exploring lie in the art of shopping and indulging in delicious cuisine！

The post Why New York Times featured Morioka? A Japanese journalist set out on a journey to find out why. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

It’s said “If you make pilgrimage to Ise in the West, you must make pilgrimage to the end of the East.” (here, that means Dewa Sanzan). It’s a mysterious and sacred site in the north, and it’s said that if you visit, you can be reborn.

Dewa Sanzan was originally an important site for Shugendo worshippers to be reborn while still alive, where the three mountains represent a person’s present (Mount Haguro), past (Mount Gassan), and future (Mount Yudono). Even now, mountain monks and people dressed in white can be seen coming to worship, which creates a very sacred atmosphere.

the official route is first to pray for the happiness of this world at Mount Haguro, the paradise and afterlife at Mount Gassan, and rebirth at Mount Yudono, but if you’re a beginner, it’s recommended to aim for the Dewa Sanzan Shrine on the summit of Mount Haguro.

The Dewa Sanzan Shrine houses the ‘Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden’, a sanctuary which deifies the three gods of Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono. You can more easily ‘tour’ the three mountains by visiting it.

After taking a 30-minute bus ride from the Tsuruoka Station, you arrive at the Haguro Center. Right before you is Zuijinmon, the main entrance to the holy precincts of the Dewa Sanzan Shrine.

Upon entering, a 1.7km(1mi), 2446 stair stone path begins. Along both sides of the stone steps are a series of 350-500 year old cedar trees awarded 3 stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

The stairs going up are quite tough, but, strangely as you’re walking along the wide road surrounded by enormous cedar trees, you feel a sense of safety and relief akin to being in your mother’s womb.

If you’re feeling bored, watch the stone steps as you continue climbing, and you’ll surely sometimes notice small glasses and lotus flowers have been carved. It’s said that if you find 33 of them, your wish will come true. By the way, I only found about 5…

After climbing for about an hour, you’ll reach the Dewa Sanzan Shrine. Visit the Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden set up amidst the magnificent shrine and experience rebirth.

The water level in the ‘mirror pond’ in front of the shrine has remained virtually unchanged over the years, and so has been worshipped for its mysterious nature. By the way, the mirror that was brought up from the pond can be viewed at the nearby Dewa Sanzan History Museum.

Well then, you could be satisfied and head back to Tsuruoka by bus at this point, but from July to September, there’s a bus from the summit of Mount Haguro to Mount Gassan, so I also recommend checking it out if you have the chance.

If you want to head to the summit, you’ll need to prepare for some real hiking, but it’s also fun to stroll about the area around the bus stop which has nearly the same elevation.

In shugendo belief, Mount Gassan represents the past and the afterlife, and it’s also the main peak of Dewa Sanzan. Mount Gassan Shrine is located at the peak, and it enshrines ‘Tsukuyomi No Mikoto’, the younger brother of the sun goddess ‘Amaterasu’ who is the highest deity in Japanese Shinto.

Although it had been sunny up until then, when I got off the bus at Mount Gassan, the sky suddenly became obscured by fog. The atmosphere was really like an entrance to the afterlife.

I was deeply moved by the mysterious scenery and atmosphere. It made me really understand why people in the past felt that this was the entrance to the afterlife.

This time I didn’t bring any sort of hiking equipment, so I gave up on going to the summit. Next time, I’d love to take the challenge.

If you visit during summer, you may want to experience a 3-day, 2-night traditional mountain pilgrimage tour package of Mount Haguro, Mount Yudono, and Mount Gassan.

I also recommend staying at pilgrimage-friendly accommodations called ‘Shukubo’, literally meaning ‘sleeping with monks’, or temple lodging.

The cuisine served is called ‘shōjin-ryōri’ and is typically vegetarian.

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Iwate Prefecture is the second largest prefecture in Japan, and Fukushima Prefecture is the third largest. These six prefectures alone account for about 18% of Japan’s total area, but they are not densely populated and are recommended for those who want to travel without congestion.

The area is blessed with abundant nature and hot springs, and there are many places with spectacular views, such as Matsushima, one of the three most scenic spots in Japan, Zao‘s tree ice, Hakkoda‘s Tsuta-numa, and the Shimokita Peninsula’s Butsugaura.
Iwate’s Sanriku Railway, which runs along the coast, and Akita’s JR Gono Line are popular among railroad fans.

Along with Ise Jingu Shrine, to which since ancient times it has been said that you should pay homage, Yamagata’s Dewa Sanzan has a long history as a sacred site of Shugendo. Yamagata is also famous for its many Sokushinbutsu(a kind of Buddhist mummy).

The Tohoku region is also a holy land of folklore with unique culture and folklore, such as Osorezan in Aomori, known for its “necromancer” shaman who talks with the dead, Kappa in Tono, Iwate, and Namahage in Akita.

Kokeshi dolls are one of the most famous local toys in the Tohoku region, and Naruko and Togatta in Miyagi Prefecture and Tsuchiyu in Fukushima Prefecture are known as the “Three Great Kokeshi Dolls of Japan.

Many areas were defeated by the new government forces in the civil war at the end of the Edo period, and there are many historical sites related to the sad history of the region, especially in Aizu Wakamatsu. On the Pacific side, there are still scars from the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011.

With the exception of the urban areas, the region is said to have a large number of introverted people, and many people find its shy character and simplicity, which is less touristy than other areas, attractive.

If you like

Shopping:

Sendai (Miyagi Prefecture), the largest city in the Tohoku region, has department stores that are comparable to those in the Tokyo metropolitan area, offering everything you need. In Morioka(Iwate Prefecture), there are many handcraft workshops, including Nanbu Ironware, which are popular among folk art lovers.

Arts and culture:

Aomori Prefecture has recently become a popular destination for art fans. In addition to the Aomori Museum of Art and the Towada Museum of Contemporary Art, which attract many tourists from outside the prefecture, the Hirosaki Renga Soko Art Museum, designed by world-renowned architect Tsuyoshi Tane, has opened in Hirosaki. The memorial museum of Domon Ken, one of Japan’s most famous photographers, is small but highly regarded for its architecture and views.

Outdoor activities:

There are many ski resorts in the mountainous areas such as Abi Kogen and Zao. Canoeing can be enjoyed at Lake Towada, and fishing can be enjoyed at the seaside.

Hot springs:

Nyuto Onsen-Kyo, Naruko Onsen-kyo, Ginzan Onsen, etc. are famous and hidden hot springs with a unique Tohoku flavor, and are especially photogenic during the snow season.

Traditional townscape:

Popular destinations include the World Heritage site of Hiraizumi, mountain temples with spectacular views, the temples and shrines of Dewa Sanzan, the samurai residences of Kakunodate, and Ouchi-juku, an inn town with a series of thatched-roof houses.

Gourmet food:

Seafood is excellent along the coast. Yonezawa beef from Yamagata, gyutan (beef tongue) from Sendai, and local ramen from Fukushima and Yamagata are also famous throughout Japan. Yamagata’s Tsuruoka City is the only city in Japan designated as a “UNESCO City for the Creation of Food Culture” and has many nationally renowned restaurants.

Blessed with rice, water, and a cool climate, the region is also home to many highly regarded sake breweries.

Nightlife:

Sendai, the largest city in the Tohoku region, has many live music venues and clubs, as well as retro drinking areas such as Bunka Yokocho.

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