Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

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Mt. Horaiji, in Aichi Prefecture, is one of many areas connected to Naomasa Ii. He became one of the 4 main generals serving under Ieyasu Tokugawa, and served as the feudal lord of Hikone, an area famous for the character “Hikonyan”.

This temple featuring a rough, rocky background is called Horaiji, and is the main mountain of the Shingon Buddhist Gochi sect created in the year 703.

This is a place filled with spiritual energy, where legend says that Ieyasu Tokugawa’s mother, Odai No Kata, prayed for a child and was blessed with Ieyasu. It is also the location where Naomasa, who had been targeted due to political conflict, took refuge when he was a child.

Mt. Horaiji is the remnant of a volcanic eruption 14 million years ago and features exposed rhyolite. It’s long been considered a sacred mountain in Shugendo belief.

Nowadays, you can easily drive to the vicinity of the main hall.
However, you can also get to the hall by experiencing the more majestic and captivating climb of 1,425 stone steps while looking out at the Niomon Gate and Kasasugi, which is a nearly 60m(196ft) tall cedar tree.
If you have the time, put on some walking shoes and try the climb yourself.

The view from the front of the temple is breathtaking!
Okumikawa’s scenery lacks forbiddingly tall mountains, despite its significance in Shugendo belief, and so you can visit it quite easily compared to other sites, which is nice.

Well then, after visiting the temple, let’s also head to the adjacent Horaisan Toshogu Shrine. Like the Nikko Toshogu, it’s one of the three major Toshogu shrines in Japan built under the direction of Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu Tokugawa.

A bright red Gongen-style shrine enveloped in thick trees. There’s a very sacred air about it.

Iemitsu Tokugawa, the 3rd Shogun, instructed the shrine to be built after hearing the legend about Ieyasu Tokugawa’s birth story at Horaiji.

The gorgeous architecture built around the same period as the Nikko Toshogu is a highlight.

This temple actually has a number of connections and stories related to the Tokugawa clan.

For example, this Aoi family crest is in a rare shape that was only used up to the time of Iemitsu.

I didn’t realize until being told by the priest, but the stem of the Aoi is in the shape from the Edo period, and different from the shapes found afterwards.

They had a large number of documents in the shrine office, and when I asked them about the architectural style and history of the structure, they explained everything in great detail.

The ‘Tora Doji’, or ‘tiger child’, is associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was born in the Chinese year of the tiger, in the month of the tiger (modern day February), on the day of the tiger (a day which comes in cycles of 12), during the time of the tiger (modern day 4~6p.m.).
They offer small versions of it as good luck charms for sale at the shrine office.

The story behind them is moving.

What do you think those 2 round stones in the back are?
Actually, they’re guardian dogs.（※Called ‘Koma Inu’, guardian dogs are stone sculptures often placed at the entrances to shrines, etc. They prevent evil spirits from entering holy areas.）

Dating from 1651, 1940 and 1990, the oldest is at the back and the newest at the front.
Soldiers who went to war would carve pieces from it and take it with them to battle, believing the luck of Ieyasu would protect them from bullets and other projectiles. It’s very sad to see just how small and round the first and second dogs have become. We must all wish that times of peace will continue endlessly, and the third dog will never be carved by anyone.

Despite Horaiji having such a rich history and beautiful view, it’s still comparatively unknown throughout Japan, and you can relax and experience it at your leisure.

A hidden hot spring nearby, Yuya Onsen, features a wonderful inn and it’s lovely to spend some time there and take a stroll through the area.

The Iida Line, which houses the nearest station to Yuya Onsen, is a fan favorite among railroad lovers as it runs through very secluded, mostly untouched regions.

⇒ Mt.Horai-ji and Horai-ji Temple

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It’s said “If you make pilgrimage to Ise in the West, you must make pilgrimage to the end of the East.” (here, that means Dewa Sanzan). It’s a mysterious and sacred site in the north, and it’s said that if you visit, you can be reborn.

Dewa Sanzan was originally an important site for Shugendo worshippers to be reborn while still alive, where the three mountains represent a person’s present (Mount Haguro), past (Mount Gassan), and future (Mount Yudono). Even now, mountain monks and people dressed in white can be seen coming to worship, which creates a very sacred atmosphere.

the official route is first to pray for the happiness of this world at Mount Haguro, the paradise and afterlife at Mount Gassan, and rebirth at Mount Yudono, but if you’re a beginner, it’s recommended to aim for the Dewa Sanzan Shrine on the summit of Mount Haguro.

The Dewa Sanzan Shrine houses the ‘Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden’, a sanctuary which deifies the three gods of Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono. You can more easily ‘tour’ the three mountains by visiting it.

After taking a 30-minute bus ride from the Tsuruoka Station, you arrive at the Haguro Center. Right before you is Zuijinmon, the main entrance to the holy precincts of the Dewa Sanzan Shrine.

Upon entering, a 1.7km(1mi), 2446 stair stone path begins. Along both sides of the stone steps are a series of 350-500 year old cedar trees awarded 3 stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

The stairs going up are quite tough, but, strangely as you’re walking along the wide road surrounded by enormous cedar trees, you feel a sense of safety and relief akin to being in your mother’s womb.

If you’re feeling bored, watch the stone steps as you continue climbing, and you’ll surely sometimes notice small glasses and lotus flowers have been carved. It’s said that if you find 33 of them, your wish will come true. By the way, I only found about 5…

After climbing for about an hour, you’ll reach the Dewa Sanzan Shrine. Visit the Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden set up amidst the magnificent shrine and experience rebirth.

The water level in the ‘mirror pond’ in front of the shrine has remained virtually unchanged over the years, and so has been worshipped for its mysterious nature. By the way, the mirror that was brought up from the pond can be viewed at the nearby Dewa Sanzan History Museum.

Well then, you could be satisfied and head back to Tsuruoka by bus at this point, but from July to September, there’s a bus from the summit of Mount Haguro to Mount Gassan, so I also recommend checking it out if you have the chance.

If you want to head to the summit, you’ll need to prepare for some real hiking, but it’s also fun to stroll about the area around the bus stop which has nearly the same elevation.

In shugendo belief, Mount Gassan represents the past and the afterlife, and it’s also the main peak of Dewa Sanzan. Mount Gassan Shrine is located at the peak, and it enshrines ‘Tsukuyomi No Mikoto’, the younger brother of the sun goddess ‘Amaterasu’ who is the highest deity in Japanese Shinto.

Although it had been sunny up until then, when I got off the bus at Mount Gassan, the sky suddenly became obscured by fog. The atmosphere was really like an entrance to the afterlife.

I was deeply moved by the mysterious scenery and atmosphere. It made me really understand why people in the past felt that this was the entrance to the afterlife.

This time I didn’t bring any sort of hiking equipment, so I gave up on going to the summit. Next time, I’d love to take the challenge.

If you visit during summer, you may want to experience a 3-day, 2-night traditional mountain pilgrimage tour package of Mount Haguro, Mount Yudono, and Mount Gassan.

I also recommend staying at pilgrimage-friendly accommodations called ‘Shukubo’, literally meaning ‘sleeping with monks’, or temple lodging.

The cuisine served is called ‘shōjin-ryōri’ and is typically vegetarian.

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5 of the cutest representations of Tenjin in Tokyo

It’s been 7 years since I started visiting shrines during the “Goshuin boom” (when tourists flocked to shrines and temples to collect each institution’s unique commemorative stamp).
From Inari shrines to Hachiman shrines, Yasaka shrines and Hikawa shrines, there are many shrines with the same name throughout the country, but I believe the easiest to understand and wander are the Tenjin shrines.

Shrines with names like Tenjin, Tenmangu, and Kitano are all within the same category of “Tenjin shrines.” Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Daizaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are especially famous.

These shrines are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, whose symbols include plum trees, bronze statues called “rubbing cows” that visitors rub for health and good luck, and sweets sold in front of the shrine gate.

In older areas of town where Tenjin shrines are located, there are often shops selling famous sweets like umegae mochi (a sweet grilled dumpling filled with red bean paste) and tenjin kashi (sweets made of sugar and molded into auspicious shapes, such as plum blossoms or Sugawara no Michizane himself), so memories of visits to a Tenjin shrine are often paired with those of sweet treats.

In addition, those who are familiar with Tenjin know of the shrines’ “hidden mascot.”
On January 25^th every year, a day known as “the first Tenjin day of the year,” a ritual called “Usokae*” is held at Tenjin shrines nationwide. During this ritual, the shrines sell wooden carvings of bullfinches. Some shrines sell out of these carvings in the blink of an eye, so I feel lucky whenever I encounter these bullfinches.

* A Shinto ritual that ousts bad luck and invites good luck through the exchange of wooden bullfinch figurines. The Japanese word for “bullfinch” is uso, which is also the word for “lie.” The word tori means both “bird” and “take.” Therefore, by exchanging bullfinches, one transforms the misfortunes of the previous year into “lies” and “takes” good fortune in exchange.

Without further ado, I’ll introduce my five recommended Tenjin shrines in Tokyo. Since I just introduced the notion of the first Tenjin day of the year, I’ll talk about some shrines that are very popular during this time and what their bullfinch figurines are like.

Kitano is to Kyoto as Kameido is to Tokyo!
Kameido Tenjin Shrine

When discussing Tenjin shrines in Tokyo, one cannot leave out this shrine.
The moment you pass through the large torii gate and climb the moon bridge, you will see the wisteria trellis and majestic shrine before you, and the Tokyo Sky Tree on your left. Right away you will see views that will make you glad that you came.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and it’s fun to visit not only the Tenjin shrine, but also the Benzaiten, Utaki, and Hanazono shrines that are also on the premises.

By the way, at Kameido Tenjin, the names of the plum tree varieties are hung on each trunk. There are numerous varieties of plum tree, and they are like an idol group; when the trees start to bloom, it’s fun to look for the variety that you like best.

On your way home, be sure to stop by the historic confectionary Funabashiya and try the famous kuzumochi.

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Kameido Tenjin’s bullfinches are small and cute little figurines. There are seven different sizes, and you can get a small one for 600 yen. They’re the kind of charms that you’ll find yourself buying a lot of as souvenirs for your loved ones.

If a 3D miniature were made, it would definitely be popular!
Gojoten Shrine

This is a shrine nestled on the banks of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno. It was founded 1,900 years ago.

The legendary prince Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have been the first to worship here when he passed through Ueno on his way to subdue rebels living in Japan’s eastern provinces. Yamato Takeru offered gratitude for a blessing from the god of medicine, and therefore the shrine is said to have the power to heal illness.

The highlight of the shrine are its grounds, which would be interesting as a 3D-printed miniature. The spacious and bright Gojoten Shrine and the small and mysterious Hanazono Inari Shrine are almost stacked on top of one another like bunk beds.

Gojoten and Hanazono Inari are connected by stairs, and part of the shrine’s appeal is the ability to climb up and down and cross back and forth between the two spaces, which have a totally different feel from one another.

The bullfinch carvings sold at Gojoten Shrine are concealed inside envelopes, so you just have to go for it and pick one. Most of them have silver paper decorating their heads, but a few of them have gold paper decorations.

I like this playfulness from a shrine that otherwise seems very serious.

Get lost in photogenic Edo
Yujima Tenjin Shrine

This is a shrine that makes you wonder whether time and space have twisted back on themselves. Although unmistakably located in the current Reiwa Era, this is a mysterious place where you can catch glimpses of the dashing men and women of the Edo Period among the scenery, as through thin curtains of time have overlapped.

On sunny days, the road approaching the shrine is lined with shops, so I bought some sweet fried buns for 150 yen each (it’s impossible to eat just one) and ate them on the temple grounds.

I gave my greetings to the spirit of Michizane and rubbed the metal “rubbing cow” statue.

It’s also possible to worship at the Sasatsuka Inari Shrine on the same grounds, and at Togakushi Shrine, where the god of sports, Ame no Tajikarao, is enshrined. On your way home, you can purchase daifuku as a souvenir at the nearby confectionary Tsuruse.

Yushima Tenjin’s bullfinch charm is a little unusual; it’s shaped like a stick and looks as though it’s just sprouted up out of the ground. The cute red face makes it look as if the bullfinch drank some of the gods’ sacred sake.

A little-known but spectacular spot
Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine

This Tenjin shrine has the best view! It’s a small shrine known only to a few, about ten minutes’ walk from the LaQua hot spring spa behind Korakuen Station, but visitors can experience the extraordinary here.
The shrine’s torii gate is an entrance to another world. Climb the shadowy stairs, and the shrine grounds begin at the top. A figure of a cow that has become white and fluffy from all the fortune slips tied to it will welcome you.

Next to the torii are a pair of guardian dog statues, and inside the torii are two “rubbing cow” statues. What’s cute about the cow statues is that they have been rubbed and patted by so many visitors that their horns have been worn away.

There is a rock on the left side of the grounds, facing the shrine, where shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo sat. To think, the illustrious Yoritomo came here! In fact, Minamoto no Yoritomo built this shrine while on an expedition in eastern Japan, in gratitude for the god of learning’s blessing and divine message. Heading back from the shrine, you can see a wonderful view from the top of the stairs of the piercing blue sky and the town below.

The bullfinch from Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine comes in a wooden box, wrapped in soft paper. From its chubby appearance, it looks like it will bring good luck.

Where the cows and foxes all stare
Hirakawa Tenmangu

The first think I think when I visit Hirakawa Tenmangu is, “So many cows!” There are five “rubbing cow” statues. There is also an Inari shrine on the grounds, so when you pass through the torii fate you will be greeted by both cows and foxes.

It’s easy to think that a shrine in a business district won’t have any charm, but since it’s surrounded by office buildings that block the sunlight, the shrine will sometimes appear to be covered in blue shadows, or the light reflected on the windows of the buildings will shimmer. A nice aspect of shrines in business districts is that sometimes they have a variety of faces; sometimes they appear submerged in water, and other times they are radiant and sparkling. Hirakawa Tenmangu is precisely this kind of shrine.

The bullfinches at Hirakawa Tenmangu are decorated with gold paper on their heads. They have big eyes and a face that anyone would think is cute. They are packaged along with rice crackers. It’s a bullfinch that you’ll want to spend the year with, together at home.

(* Please note that at each shrine, the bullfinch charms will no longer be available once they are all sold.)

Text&Photographs by  Ayaha Yaguchi

Writer / editor / illustrator. Born in Osaka. Writes mainly for magazines, the web, and advertisements. Ayaha’s areas of expertise are travel, the outdoors, science, and history. She began traveling in 2013 when she became fascinated by natural spots rich in spiritual power, and in 2020 she obtained her first-class boating license. Her current dream is to visit shrines and temples on remote sea islands.

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Japanese people often make wishes to the Gods (Kami), so they sometimes select a shrine depending on what they want. Each shrine is believed to bring a specific benefit, for example: good fortune in regards to prosperity, love, studying, art, etc.

However, the most sacred shrine in Japan is generally considered to be Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu) in Mie prefecture.

It’s dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu. It celebrates over 2,000 years of history. It is considered the central shrine of the Shinto religion and stands above all other shrines.
With its origins in the worship of nature, Shinto regards the seas, mountains, and woods as sacred objects of worship.
At Ise shrine, you can experience the worship of nature first-hand.
It’s more a forest than a shrine.

Entry to the divine palace is forbidden, and you can only view part of it from a distance. Also, every 20 years, a new divine palace with the same dimensions as the previous one is constructed at an alternate site that is adjacent to the main sanctuary.
It turns out that forests and rivers are more eternal than human constructs.

During the Edo period, making a pilgrimage to the Ise Grand Shrine was a very popular thing to do, with 4 million people visiting the shrine annually.
Many inns welcomed the pilgrims, many guide books were published, and many salesmen sold package tours.

Having said that, there are still many other amazing shrines in Japan.

If you are headed to Tokyo, looking at the Tokyo Jissha(a group of ten shrines in the Tokyo metropolitan area)will give you a good idea of where to start.
They’re all easily accessed and celebrate long, rich histories.

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A lot of guidebooks recommend visitors to go to “Asakusa”. The main attraction in Asakusa is Sensoji which is a very popular Buddhist temple. It’s always crowded with many tourists who want to experience the atmosphere of “Edo”.

But today, I want to introduce another location.
It’s one of the hidden gems of Tokyo.

It’s actually in Shibuya!

Most people think that Shibuya is a popular shopping and entertainment district where young people gather.
While that’s true, Shibuya features fascinating historical locations as well!

For example, Konnoh Hachimangu Shrine, only a 10min walk from Shibuya Station, has a long history.
It was constructed in the Gongen-Zukuri style, which is the same architectural style seen at the temple of Nikko Tosho-gu.

It is also known as the shrine for Sangaku.

Sangaku were wooden votive tablets given as a sign of devotion to a shrine. They featured math problems and puzzles and sought to entertain guests and other passers-by. Some also included the methods behind solving certain problems. They were most commonly gifted by mathematicians/math enthusiasts during the Edo period.

Math problem is illustrated.

Mathematicians would often gather to attempt to solve particularly difficult problems.
This custom of dedicating math problems/puzzles to a religious site is said to be a culture unique to Japan, with no parallel in the world.

By the way, there’s a movie called “The Samurai Astronomer” about these mathematical geniuses of the Edo period. If you’re interested, I recommend you check it out and learn more!

Just another 10-minute walk away from this shrine, you can find the oldest shrine in the Shibuya Ward, Shibuya Hikawa Shrine.

Within the temple grounds, there are the remains of the sumo arena of the Kinno Sumo, one of the three major sumo tournaments which took place in the suburbs of Edo. Sumo is not only a Japanese style of wrestling but also a Shinto ritual.
This is why some Japanese shrines feature a sumo ring, and the traditions have long been intertwined.

Kokugakuin University Museum is located next to the Shibuya Hikawa Shrine. This museum is free to enter.

If you visit this museum you can get a pretty good overview of Japanese history, ranging all the way from the first settlers called the Jōmon, right up to the modern era.

After enjoying the museum, you can even head on over to Ebisu station if you’re interested. Because the museum is right in the middle of Ebisu and Shibuya, it’s conveniently located.

Shibuya is generally considered an exciting city for younger people in their twenties, but adults in their thirties and older prefer Ebisu because it has a classy and sophisticated image.
There are an abundance of nice restaurants or izakaya(a kind of Japanese pub) for foodies looking for a bite to eat.
If you feel Shibuya is a bit too noisy and crowded, I recommend that you visit Ebisu.

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