In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper Japanese tea experience.

In a mountain village in Tochizawa(栃沢), within the mountains of Shizuoka (AKA Okushizu), lies Sansuien, a tea farm which has been around since the Edo period.

This farm has maintained a teashop on their veranda since the 1980’s with the desire to share local tea with as many people as possible.

Upon arriving at the traditional Japanese-style home built over 100 years ago, we first enjoyed tea and accompanying snacks prepared by Mr. Kiyomi Uchino, the ‘Mountain Tea Master’ himself.

Tochizawa is the birthplace of Syoichi Kokushi（聖一国師）, later known as the “Ancestor of Shizuoka Tea”, who was a high priest from the Kamakura period.
When returning from his studies in Song Dynasty China, he brought back tea seeds.

It’s the perfect place to experience the history and atmosphere of a village where farms have grown tea since long ago, the deliciousness of tea, and the highly formal and prestigious world of tea.

The water used for brewing the tea is springwater from Tochizawa. This water has a long lineage, being delivered from Tochizawa to Fukuoka at the time of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (a festival in Fukuoka designated as an important example of Japan’s intangible cultural folk heritage), which is connected to Syoichi Kokushi.

Excluding May, which is tea harvesting season in Japan, by making a reservation in advance you can sample tea out on the veranda, tour the factory and tea fields, and experience tea picking.

If you want an even deeper experience, I recommend participating in the tea ceremony, which is available every year in May and November. Mr. Uchino personally prepares tea using carefully selected leaves.

The first thing that surprised me was the tea being served in a champagne glass. You can tell the tea leaves are superb quality just by seeing how fine and sharp they are, like needles.

A small amount of water, about 30-40°C (86-104°F) is added to the leaves, and the first tasting is a sort of slurping of the tea.

First, you enjoy the aroma of the tea. The rich tea has a unique ‘Umami’ I’ve never experienced before. “We call this Mountain Broth”, says Mr. Uchino. Actually, broth is the perfect word for expressing the deep umami flavor. I’ve never had tea like this before!

The tea snacks are served on ‘Shizuhatayaki’ dishes, which have a history of being produced from the Tokugawa Family’s official kiln since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa. The underside of the dish looks like this.

After slightly changing the temperature and enjoying 3 tastings, Mr. Uchino says “Now, please enjoy the leave with some salt.” What?! You mean eat the tea leaves!?

At first I was shocked, but it was super delicious! Although I was having tea, it made me want to drink some Sake(rice wine).

Green tea is often served at sushi restaurants and Japanese pubs for free, so I was under the impression that compared to matcha it was a rather casual drink, but I had no idea it could be so prestigious and formal…

This is a place still mostly unexplored by even Japanese people, and it’s not necessarily easy to access, but I’d definitely recommend it for experienced travelers.

⇒ Sansuien
※If you are interested in tours or tea ceremony experiences, please contact us. ※English Support Not Available

The post [Sansuien], the Origin of Shizuoka Tea, Where You Can Experience a Tea Ceremony Surrounded by Mountains appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.