A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…!
Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”.
Here, he recommends his five favorite sake breweries.
Let’s follow him on this journey and savor the whole history of this delicious drink!

–What drew you to sake in the first place?

It was about 20 years ago when I first became interested in sake.

At the time, there were still remnants of the “third shochu boom,” and sake was losing its momentum. As the boom began to pick up, I began to include sake brewery tours in my travel plans.

My theory has always been that sake tastes even better when you know the brewer and the background, so I feel that the culture of sake brewery tours has further encouraged people’s interest in sake.

–As a long-time analyst of the industry, what do you think the appeal of sake is currently?

Of course, the sweetness and richness of the flavor from the rice, but in the past 10 to 15 years, there has been a shift in the number of breweries, and new breweries have started brewing sake with new ideas, which is a great way to encounter some fresh inspiration.

–I want to visit a brewery! What is the etiquette for visiting a brewery?

As long as you follow the minimum rules, such as not eating fermented foods on the day of the tour, you should be able to enjoy the tour at your leisure without being too formal about it.

In addition to the sake production process, many breweries have a long history, so be sure to observe the details of the buildings and equipment.

If you are going on an overnight trip, you should definitely ask the brewery for recommendations on places to drink in the area.

They can often tell you about their favorite places that you won’t find in the guide books, and they usually have a large selection of the brewery’s products.
Sake tastes even better when you see the brewing process in action.

5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today, selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo

1. Umegae Shuzo (Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture) / 梅ヶ枝酒造

This brewery’s storehouse was built in 1860 and is a national tangible cultural property. The roof retains some of its old tiles, and it is strengthened by pillars and beams using a method called “netsugi”, making it a very interesting building.

The motto of the brewery is not to rely too much on machines, but to brew sake with the power of delicate human senses. Here you can sample a wide range of products, from ginjo sake to amazake, as well as shochu, gin, and liqueurs.

A cave called “Mukyudo (無窮洞) ” which was dug during World War Ⅱ, is preserved right next to the warehouse.
This former air-raid shelter was dug out and used by teachers and elementary school students of the school that once stood there. The podium, kitchen, and bookshelves were all dug out by hand. Be sure to check out the sake brewery as well.

2.SENKIN (Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture) / せんきん

Although established in 1806, the current brewer, who is from the 11th generation of this brewing family, has a unique background as a former sommelier. This brewery is characterized by its sake’s sweet and sour taste, which is not typical of Japanese sake, and is rapidly gaining more and more fans. While the building itself is traditional, the sake brewery has adopted a domaine (self-sufficient) style, and expresses the flavors of the region.

3. Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture) / 吉野酒造

It is relatively rare to find a brewery that mills its own rice, and the sake brewed with natural water on the premises is really light and full of flavor.

Koshikoi (腰古井)  is a highly acclaimed sake that has won numerous awards, but Ginjo (a premium sake made with natural water and only the best part of the rice , with the outer husks removed) has also garnered many plaudits. The plum wine made with ginjo is also excellent.

4. Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture) / 松浦一酒造

This long-established sake brewery has been operating since 1716 in Imari City, Saga Prefecture, which is also famous for its pottery. There are various types of sake on offer here, from ginjo sake to regular sake, many of which are made from Kyushu-grown sake rice such as “reihou” and “saganohana,” allowing you to fully enjoy the pleasure of local sake.

On the other hand, this brewery is also famous for the Kappa mummy (Kappa is a well known Japanese goblin that resides in ponds and rivers) that is enshrined there. The mummy, which was discovered about 70 years ago during renovation of the main building, probably came from mainland China and is now an important guardian deity of the brewery.
In order to promote the brewery as a “tourist brewery,” about 200 valuable and fascinating ethnic materials, such as old brewing tools and farming equipment, are also on display.

5 Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture) / 泰石酒造

Actually, sake breweries do exist in Okinawa. The original starting point of Taikoku sake brewing came from making shochu from sugar cane after the war. Later, as the company expanded into whiskey and liqueurs, it began making sake using air conditioning and cooling equipment. “Reimei” was launched in the form of purchasing sake rice milled in Kyushu. Nowadays, it is riding the local sake boom and attracts many tourists from the mainland.

The building also differs from other sake breweries in that it is made of concrete. In the past, there have been several incidents where neighbors mistook the steam rising from the brewery for a fire and called the police, an episode typical of Okinawa’s unfamiliarity with sake culture.

Text&Photographs by Satoshi Tomokiyo  ⇒  Twitter

Free Writer,editor. Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”. “Japan Craft Beer Travelogue/『日本クラフトビール紀行』”. “War ruins you must visit at least once/『一度は行きたい戦争遺跡』”. “Sketchy rumors, experience report/『怪しい噂 体験ルポ』” etc.

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The latest trends? The best shops in the spotlight now? Masataka Sasaki, a Ramen Editor who has published many famous books has shared his top 5 ramen shops with us.

−−Why did you start following Ramen?

I liked ramen when I lived in Akita, where I lived until I finished high school, but not so much that I went around searching for new places to eat.

I then moved to Tokyo for university. After I first experienced authentic ramen at a specialty shop in Tokyo, I moved to Ogikubo which is an area with many famous ramen shops, and I started my days immersed in ramen.

Around the mid-1990s, it was the golden age of ramen when there was a “new vintage every year” with many legendary shops as “Aoba”, “Musashi”, “Kujiraken” (all of which opened up in 1996, as part of the legendary 1996 group of ramen shops) opening up and creating new trends.

Witnessing the process of modern ramen being born during this golden age was the starting point for me.

−−Every year was a vintage year! Sasaki-san, for someone who has experienced such excellent times in the past, what’s the attraction for “ramen” now?

Even for the major types of ramen broth, there are soy sauce-based, salt-based, miso, tonkotsu, chicken-bone broth (paitan), dried-sardine based, pork-bone (tonkotsu) seafood broths, and if you factor in the types of noodles, toppings as well, the variations are unlimited.

The more you walk around, you are sure to encounter a new bowl in this unlimited amusement park of ramen.

New shops open one after another and well-known shops continue to improve their flavor, and regional powerhouse shops continue to sharpen their blades. Despite your best efforts to go around to all of the ramen shops you want to visit around Japan and across the world, you probably won’t be able to finish trying them all during your own lifetime.

You may have heard of soup-less ramen (mazesoba) or noodles with buckwheat flour, but even noodle-less ramen is a type of ramen where “no rules is the rule”. If I ever find myself muttering “this isn’t ramen…”, I think it will be my last day as a ramen editor.

−−With a love for ramen as deep as the sea, it is unlikely that Sasaki-san will ever have to retire as a ramen editor. Please take a look at the latest ramen trends!

There are 5 major trends explained in detail.

●Japanese herbs

There are many ramen shops that have started to use Japanese herbs such as ginger and Japanese pepper. Recently, ramen featuring spices as the star ingredient have become popular and while we see many shops serving soup-less tantanmen that uses red chili pepper and Japanese pepper to add spiciness and a sense of numbing, creating bowls of ramen that feature a subtle, yet deep flavor of ginger as well as the refreshing flavor of Japanese pepper are particularly popular with woman.

●Western-style Broth

Recently, there have been many new types of broths appearing such as those made with prosciutto, animal-based ones made using pork or chicken bone and even broths made only with vegetables without using even seafood products such as dried fish or bonito flakes.

You will be surprised by the different impression you will get from each of these pork bone and seafood-based ramen soups in terms of taste and aroma compared to what you’ve tried so far.

●Pure hand-made noodles

There have been thick noodles in the past, but you might be fooled into thinking that your bowl is full of udon noodles, at some of the popular ramen restaurants that are serving very thick, hand-made noodles that have a delicious chew!

●Mini Rice Bowl

Rough and tumble side dishes such as having curry or rice with your ramen are a thing of the past. There are now many shops that serve cute looking mini rice bowls featuring toppings such as lamb confit, pecorino, mouth-watering chicken and clams.

●Hanging Skewer-Roasted Chashu Roast Pork

Chashu roast pork for ramen is typically fatty and voluminous, but around last year, the “hanging skewer-roasted” method appeared. This type of chashu roast pork is full of savory flavor and the slightly smokey taste is addictive.

5 of the Best Ramen Today, selected by Masataka Sasaki

1. King Seimen (Ouji,Tokyo) / キング製麺

The main specialty of the shop is a sophisticated white-dashi (white stock) broth, but the “Sansho (Japanese Pepper) Ramen” is recommended. As you slurp the curly noodles, you will feel the elegant fragrance of Japanese pepper through your nose with a fresh aftertaste. This dish is creating a lot of buzz in the world of Japanese herb-style ramen.

2. SAMAR（Ebisu, Tokyo）/SAMAR（サマル）

his is a variety of ramen served only at lunchtime by the popular shop “Sakana Bal”. The salt-flavored broth is made based on prosciutto enhanced with porcini mushrooms, fragrant vegetables and herbs has an exquisite taste! Enjoy adjusting the flavor to your liking with the tapenade (savory olive paste).

3. Dame na Rinjin(Ningyocho, Tokyo) / 駄目な隣人

This ramen shop features an adventurous broth made with bouillon de legume (vegetable stock) with a high quality soy sauce based seasoning (tare). The oil made with ginger confit creates a taste that will bring a smile to your face.

４．MEN CRY（Hamamatsucho, Tokyo）/MENクライ

You will be surprised when you see the hand-made noodles made with 100% Japanese flour! These unique, chewy noodles are as thick as Hoto noodles in Yamanashi prefecture. They complement the dashi flavored broth very well.  Also recommended are mini rice bowls such as the daily special, rice with raw egg and the marinated egg-yolk rice bowl.

５．Marue Chuukasoba (Sugamo, Tokyo) / 惠中華そば（まるえ中華そば）

Curly noodles swim in a highly-transparent, clear soup. You can enjoy this salt flavored ramen broth which has a distinct brininess. You will also be very satisfied with the hanging skewer-roasted pork, which is full of flavor, fragrant and smokey.

Text&Photographs by Masataka Sasaki   

Ramen editor.

A producer of a wide variety of content regarding ramen and food.  He has edited many books on the topic of ramen and writes a regular column for SanekiBiz.

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Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

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Chestnuts, black beans, and wild boar meat are the specialties of the area, and many people come here to enjoy the rich food, and you can find some fancy restaurants in the middle of the countryside that have been converted from old private houses.

A trip to the green, rural area to dine on some delicious food is appealing, but this time I would like to recommend a trip with the theme of “pottery”.

The Tamba-yaki pottery produced in this area is from one of the six oldest kilns in Japan with a history of 800 years. There is a pottery village with about 60 kilns, and it is a sacred place for “Mingei” (folk art) pottery.

“Mingei” means ‘the daily necessities of the people.’ Made by unnamed craftsmen, the beauty of this pottery was described by the philosopher Mr. Muneyoshi Yanagi. Their simple and practical designs are very appealing, and recently they have been attracting more and more young fans.

If you are visiting from Tokyo, the quickest way is to rent a car from Kyoto, but I wasn’t too confident in my driving skills, so this time I took the train from Shin-Osaka to Sasayama-guchi station and rented a car from there to start my trip to Tamba-Sasayama.

The first place I headed to was the Konda area, where the pottery makers of “Tamba Tachikui-yaki” are located. If you are a fan of Mingei, this is a must-see place.

Lunch Spot: Tama no suke (玉の助）

A quick lunch at a restaurant “Tama no suke” (玉の助） specializing in “Tamagokakegohan” (a dish of white rice mixed with raw egg, seasoned with soy sauce) in the Konda district.

Place1 . Tanso Klin（丹窓窯）

The first place I visited was Tanso Kiln, where the spirit of Mr. Shigeyoshi Ichino is still alive. Ichino trained in the studio of Bernard Leach, a British potter who participated in the Mingei movement, and was a close friend of Muneyoshi Yanagi.

Small slipware dishes and other items can be purchased at relatively low prices.

Place2 . Toshihiko Kiln（俊彦窯）

Next was the Toshihiko Kiln, owned by Mr. Toshihiko Shimizu, who is also a second-generation pupil of Mr. Kanjiro Kawai.

This kiln has recently become popular overseas as well.

Place3 . Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama（丹波焼立杭登窯）

Located near the Toshihiko Kiln, the Tamba-yaki Tachikui Noborikama Kiln is also a must-see. It is the oldest Noborikama style of kiln in Tamba-yaki and the prefecture has designated it as an important tangible asset of folk culture heritage.

The view of the woodland area from the top is also beautiful.

After the luxurious shopping experience of buying pottery while listening to the craftsmens’ stories, I went to Sasayama, a historic castle town.

Place4 . Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum（丹波古陶館）

Here, be sure to visit the Tamba Kotokan Pottery Museum and see the masterpieces of Tamba-yaki.

Place5 . Taos Guest House

I stayed at Taos, a century-old traditional Japanese house that has been recently turned into an inn, with a co-working space, dining room, two bedrooms, and spacious accommodation for up to six people.

In fact, one of the inn’s specialties is “Mingei tableware”.

Why are there so many Mingei folk-art pieces inside? It’s because this inn is run by Plug, a nearby store with a large selection of Mingei pieces.

Place6 . plug (interior shop)

If you find a product you like, be sure to visit Plug as well. This store is also very sophisticated, and you will have a great shopping experience here.

Dining Spot . Shunsai Matabee(旬菜又兵衛)

In the evening, I went to Shunsai Matabee, which is run by Kinmata, a historic ryokan established in the Edo period, within walking distance from the inn.

As expected of an izakaya run by a high-class ryokan, all the dishes were delicious and beautifully arranged.

Place7 . Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori

If you want to explore more folk-art spots, head to the Chinese Tea Cafe Kotori.

The interior of the renovated samurai residence next to Sasayama Castle is very tasteful, but the restaurant is actually run by the daughter of Masaaki Shibata, a potter who is also deeply involved in Mingei, and the dishes served here are made with his pottery.

There is also a corner in the store where Mr. Shibata’s pottery is sold.

In this article, I have only introduced you to the Mingei folk-art spots, but it is also fun to wander around the castle town, which still retains the atmosphere of the Edo period.

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5 of the cutest representations of Tenjin in Tokyo

It’s been 7 years since I started visiting shrines during the “Goshuin boom” (when tourists flocked to shrines and temples to collect each institution’s unique commemorative stamp).
From Inari shrines to Hachiman shrines, Yasaka shrines and Hikawa shrines, there are many shrines with the same name throughout the country, but I believe the easiest to understand and wander are the Tenjin shrines.

Shrines with names like Tenjin, Tenmangu, and Kitano are all within the same category of “Tenjin shrines.” Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Daizaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are especially famous.

These shrines are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, whose symbols include plum trees, bronze statues called “rubbing cows” that visitors rub for health and good luck, and sweets sold in front of the shrine gate.

In older areas of town where Tenjin shrines are located, there are often shops selling famous sweets like umegae mochi (a sweet grilled dumpling filled with red bean paste) and tenjin kashi (sweets made of sugar and molded into auspicious shapes, such as plum blossoms or Sugawara no Michizane himself), so memories of visits to a Tenjin shrine are often paired with those of sweet treats.

In addition, those who are familiar with Tenjin know of the shrines’ “hidden mascot.”
On January 25^th every year, a day known as “the first Tenjin day of the year,” a ritual called “Usokae*” is held at Tenjin shrines nationwide. During this ritual, the shrines sell wooden carvings of bullfinches. Some shrines sell out of these carvings in the blink of an eye, so I feel lucky whenever I encounter these bullfinches.

* A Shinto ritual that ousts bad luck and invites good luck through the exchange of wooden bullfinch figurines. The Japanese word for “bullfinch” is uso, which is also the word for “lie.” The word tori means both “bird” and “take.” Therefore, by exchanging bullfinches, one transforms the misfortunes of the previous year into “lies” and “takes” good fortune in exchange.

Without further ado, I’ll introduce my five recommended Tenjin shrines in Tokyo. Since I just introduced the notion of the first Tenjin day of the year, I’ll talk about some shrines that are very popular during this time and what their bullfinch figurines are like.

Kitano is to Kyoto as Kameido is to Tokyo!
Kameido Tenjin Shrine

When discussing Tenjin shrines in Tokyo, one cannot leave out this shrine.
The moment you pass through the large torii gate and climb the moon bridge, you will see the wisteria trellis and majestic shrine before you, and the Tokyo Sky Tree on your left. Right away you will see views that will make you glad that you came.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and it’s fun to visit not only the Tenjin shrine, but also the Benzaiten, Utaki, and Hanazono shrines that are also on the premises.

By the way, at Kameido Tenjin, the names of the plum tree varieties are hung on each trunk. There are numerous varieties of plum tree, and they are like an idol group; when the trees start to bloom, it’s fun to look for the variety that you like best.

On your way home, be sure to stop by the historic confectionary Funabashiya and try the famous kuzumochi.

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Kameido Tenjin’s bullfinches are small and cute little figurines. There are seven different sizes, and you can get a small one for 600 yen. They’re the kind of charms that you’ll find yourself buying a lot of as souvenirs for your loved ones.

If a 3D miniature were made, it would definitely be popular!
Gojoten Shrine

This is a shrine nestled on the banks of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno. It was founded 1,900 years ago.

The legendary prince Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have been the first to worship here when he passed through Ueno on his way to subdue rebels living in Japan’s eastern provinces. Yamato Takeru offered gratitude for a blessing from the god of medicine, and therefore the shrine is said to have the power to heal illness.

The highlight of the shrine are its grounds, which would be interesting as a 3D-printed miniature. The spacious and bright Gojoten Shrine and the small and mysterious Hanazono Inari Shrine are almost stacked on top of one another like bunk beds.

Gojoten and Hanazono Inari are connected by stairs, and part of the shrine’s appeal is the ability to climb up and down and cross back and forth between the two spaces, which have a totally different feel from one another.

The bullfinch carvings sold at Gojoten Shrine are concealed inside envelopes, so you just have to go for it and pick one. Most of them have silver paper decorating their heads, but a few of them have gold paper decorations.

I like this playfulness from a shrine that otherwise seems very serious.

Get lost in photogenic Edo
Yujima Tenjin Shrine

This is a shrine that makes you wonder whether time and space have twisted back on themselves. Although unmistakably located in the current Reiwa Era, this is a mysterious place where you can catch glimpses of the dashing men and women of the Edo Period among the scenery, as through thin curtains of time have overlapped.

On sunny days, the road approaching the shrine is lined with shops, so I bought some sweet fried buns for 150 yen each (it’s impossible to eat just one) and ate them on the temple grounds.

I gave my greetings to the spirit of Michizane and rubbed the metal “rubbing cow” statue.

It’s also possible to worship at the Sasatsuka Inari Shrine on the same grounds, and at Togakushi Shrine, where the god of sports, Ame no Tajikarao, is enshrined. On your way home, you can purchase daifuku as a souvenir at the nearby confectionary Tsuruse.

Yushima Tenjin’s bullfinch charm is a little unusual; it’s shaped like a stick and looks as though it’s just sprouted up out of the ground. The cute red face makes it look as if the bullfinch drank some of the gods’ sacred sake.

A little-known but spectacular spot
Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine

This Tenjin shrine has the best view! It’s a small shrine known only to a few, about ten minutes’ walk from the LaQua hot spring spa behind Korakuen Station, but visitors can experience the extraordinary here.
The shrine’s torii gate is an entrance to another world. Climb the shadowy stairs, and the shrine grounds begin at the top. A figure of a cow that has become white and fluffy from all the fortune slips tied to it will welcome you.

Next to the torii are a pair of guardian dog statues, and inside the torii are two “rubbing cow” statues. What’s cute about the cow statues is that they have been rubbed and patted by so many visitors that their horns have been worn away.

There is a rock on the left side of the grounds, facing the shrine, where shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo sat. To think, the illustrious Yoritomo came here! In fact, Minamoto no Yoritomo built this shrine while on an expedition in eastern Japan, in gratitude for the god of learning’s blessing and divine message. Heading back from the shrine, you can see a wonderful view from the top of the stairs of the piercing blue sky and the town below.

The bullfinch from Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine comes in a wooden box, wrapped in soft paper. From its chubby appearance, it looks like it will bring good luck.

Where the cows and foxes all stare
Hirakawa Tenmangu

The first think I think when I visit Hirakawa Tenmangu is, “So many cows!” There are five “rubbing cow” statues. There is also an Inari shrine on the grounds, so when you pass through the torii fate you will be greeted by both cows and foxes.

It’s easy to think that a shrine in a business district won’t have any charm, but since it’s surrounded by office buildings that block the sunlight, the shrine will sometimes appear to be covered in blue shadows, or the light reflected on the windows of the buildings will shimmer. A nice aspect of shrines in business districts is that sometimes they have a variety of faces; sometimes they appear submerged in water, and other times they are radiant and sparkling. Hirakawa Tenmangu is precisely this kind of shrine.

The bullfinches at Hirakawa Tenmangu are decorated with gold paper on their heads. They have big eyes and a face that anyone would think is cute. They are packaged along with rice crackers. It’s a bullfinch that you’ll want to spend the year with, together at home.

(* Please note that at each shrine, the bullfinch charms will no longer be available once they are all sold.)

Text&Photographs by  Ayaha Yaguchi

Writer / editor / illustrator. Born in Osaka. Writes mainly for magazines, the web, and advertisements. Ayaha’s areas of expertise are travel, the outdoors, science, and history. She began traveling in 2013 when she became fascinated by natural spots rich in spiritual power, and in 2020 she obtained her first-class boating license. Her current dream is to visit shrines and temples on remote sea islands.

The post 5 of the Cutest Representations of Tenjin in Tokyo. Travel writer and Shrine Enthusiast Ayaha Yaguchi Chooses. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Even if world-famous product designers such as Jasper Morrison, Konstantin Grcic, or Naoto Fukasawa designed MUJI’s products, they never divulge the name of the designer on the products, keeping the philosophy of the brand “Muji”.

He believed that beauty resides in practical handicrafts made for the common people not luxury goods.

It used to be thought that there was no beauty in the mundane things that were used every day by common people, but the movement of Yanagi and others brought the beauty of common things into the limelight. Now there are stores all over Japan that specialize in selling Mingei works and museums that exhibit only Mingei.

It is no surprise that Naoto Fukasawa, who was involved in many of MUJI’s product development projects was appointed as the director of Nihon Mingei Kan (The Japan Folk Crafts Museum) in Tokyo, the first and most respected of the many Mingei museums in Japan.

The post Meet the Innocent Aesthetics and Spirit of “Mingei”, Japanese Folk Art in Tokyo appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Japanese people often make wishes to the Gods (Kami), so they sometimes select a shrine depending on what they want. Each shrine is believed to bring a specific benefit, for example: good fortune in regards to prosperity, love, studying, art, etc.

However, the most sacred shrine in Japan is generally considered to be Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu) in Mie prefecture.

It’s dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu. It celebrates over 2,000 years of history. It is considered the central shrine of the Shinto religion and stands above all other shrines.
With its origins in the worship of nature, Shinto regards the seas, mountains, and woods as sacred objects of worship.
At Ise shrine, you can experience the worship of nature first-hand.
It’s more a forest than a shrine.

Entry to the divine palace is forbidden, and you can only view part of it from a distance. Also, every 20 years, a new divine palace with the same dimensions as the previous one is constructed at an alternate site that is adjacent to the main sanctuary.
It turns out that forests and rivers are more eternal than human constructs.

During the Edo period, making a pilgrimage to the Ise Grand Shrine was a very popular thing to do, with 4 million people visiting the shrine annually.
Many inns welcomed the pilgrims, many guide books were published, and many salesmen sold package tours.

Having said that, there are still many other amazing shrines in Japan.

If you are headed to Tokyo, looking at the Tokyo Jissha(a group of ten shrines in the Tokyo metropolitan area)will give you a good idea of where to start.
They’re all easily accessed and celebrate long, rich histories.

The post “Where is the Best Shrine in Japan?” is a Difficult Question to Answer. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

I would answer the following.

There are about 6,800 islands that make up Japan, and about 75% of the country is covered in mountains.
Many of the few natural plains became cities. For example, Tokyo is built upon the Kanto Plain, the largest plain in Japan.
In short, Japan is a country full of big cities, oceans, and mountains.

Where do you want to go first?
If you want to experience a little bit of everything, I would recommend you Tokyo.
As you know, Tokyo is the biggest city in Japan. You can enjoy gourmet food from all over the country and the world, museums, shopping malls, and historical sites from the Edo period.

Also, even Tokyo features some mountains.

Mt.Takao, Mt. Mitake is a very famous day-trip destination.
There are also many mountains in the neighboring prefecture of Kanagawa, which is similar to Tokyo because it is in the Tokyo metropolitan area, and so it’s suitable for a day-trip.

Okutama, Tokyo

Kamakura town has a lot of small mountains perfect for a novice hiker.
Mount Oyama in Kanagawa has been regarded as a holy mountain since the middle ages. You can enjoy not only hiking but also visiting the historical shrine and getting a great view of Mt. Fuji.
Tokyo also has many beaches. The most convenient beach is man-made ODAIBA BEACH. You can get there in just 20min by train from central Tokyo.

Odaiba Beach

If you are looking for a natural beach experience, I would recommend the Izu Seven Islands. These islands are accessible by ferry from the pier in central Tokyo as well.

Do you prefer mountains? If so, I’d recommend you, Nagano prefecture.
It is referred to as the Roof of Japan, and there are hundreds of mountain trails scattered throughout the countryside. We call these mountains the Japanese Alps.

Nagano prefecture is not so far from Tokyo. You can get there in just 2-3 hours by train from Tokyo. There are also many charter buses that run between Nagano and Tokyo.
In winter, people enjoy skiing and relaxing in hot springs while surrounded by snow.
In Nagano, wild monkeys also enjoy bathing in the hot springs!

Do you like the beach? If so, Okinawa is the best place for you.
It is the southernmost prefecture in Japan. It is a completely tropical island, with an average daytime temperature of 21 degrees Celsius even in December.
It features breath-takingly stunning islands and beaches. You can enjoy exploring beautiful coral reefs and seeing tropical fish up close and personal by snorkeling or scuba diving.

Zamami Island, Okinawa

Are you interested in culture and history, not topography?
If so, have no fear!

As a result of the division of cultural spheres caused by natural borders such as mountains and the sea, Japan has a surprisingly wide variety of dialects, cultures, and local food.
Until the Edo period (1603-1868), Japan was a collection of as many as 300 “clans”, each of them being similar to small, independent countries.

Sakata, Yamagata

After the Meiji Restoration, Japan was officially unified as a single country, but that was a mere 150 years ago.
Therefore, if you travel around Japan, you’ll be surprised to discover the culture and remnants of the “clan” era still exist and are present in daily life.
Each and every area in Japan has a long history and features its own unique culture.

The post 3 Themes to Think About When You Travel in Japan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Why do they feel sympathy for losers? Here is some historical background.

One of the most famous samurai fighters in the history of Japan is Yoshitsune Minamoto.

His life was very dramatic. In the 12th century, there were two major powers in Japan: the Taira clan and the Minamoto clan.
Yoshitsune was born in 1159 as one of the sons of a military commander for the Minamoto clan. When he was 10 years old, his father was killed by their rivals, the Taira clan. The leader of the Taira clan didn’t kill the sons, because they were very young.
The power of the Taira clan was immense. No one could have foreseen that this pair of young brothers would go on to grow up and defeat it.

Yoshitsune was sent to a temple to train as a monk. His elder brother, Yoritomo Minamoto was banished to an isolated district in Japan.

For more than 20 years, the remaining samurai of the Minamoto Clan planned to bring Yoritomo back to power and fight the Taira clan.

Finally, In 1180, Yoritomo raised an army. When the war started, Yoshitune joined his brother’s army.

Yoshitsune had an extraordinary military talent. He led a miraculous battle that is still talked about today.
He became a commander in the Minamoto clan.
Finally, the Taira clan was defeated by Yoshitsune.

His elder brother, Yoritomo, became the first shōgun of the Kamakura shogunate of Japan. After Yoritomo, the military government continued for more than 770 years.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, in Kamakura Japan, founded by Yoriyoshi and Yoritomo Minamoto.

Yoshitsune became a hero because of his military talent.
But after a peaceful period, he became involved in political conflict.
His elder brother Yoritomo instructed his men to kill Yoshitsune.

The tragedy killed both of them, despite being brothers and comrades, and this moved many Japanese people.

Yoshitsune has long been a popular figure in Japanese literature and culture because many people felt sorry about his death.

The story of Yoshitsune generated public sympathy for the underdog.
Japanese people like losers because of this cultural background.

“Hougan-Biiki”.
means “sympathy for the underdog.”
HouganBiiki is one of the Japanese people’s unique personalities.

There are many sightseeing spots in Japan with anecdotes about Yoshitsune.

In Kurama, Kyoto, there is a temple where the young Yoshitsune lived.

Manpukuji- temple in Kamakura, there is also a temple where Yoshitsune was stranded when he came to see his brother.

Chuson-ji Temple in  Iwate, there is the site of the capital of the Fujiwara family, who raised Yoshitsune to be a soldier.

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