The Myth of the Home Sushi Chef

One of the biggest misconceptions is that Japanese people are constantly making sushi at home. While some might dabble in the art of makizushi (rolled sushi) for a special occasion, the idea of whipping up a batch of nigiri for dinner is quite uncommon. The skill, the effort to gather a variety of ingredients, and the preparation time involved are just not everyday fare. Think of it like expecting every American to be a pitmaster – while some are, it’s not the norm.

Why Not Home Sushi?

• Specialized Skill: Crafting perfect nigiri takes years of training. The rice, the fish, the delicate balance – it’s not something you can just pick up easily.

• The Need for a Variety of Fish: Nigiri sushi typically requires 9-10 types of seafood. It’s not easy to prepare these in small amounts at home.

• It’s Cheaper to Eat Out: Preparing 10 types of fish and going through the effort of making sushi at home is much more expensive than eating at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, making it pointless to prepare it at home.

The Everyday Sushi Experience: Beyond the Exquisite

So, if not at home, where do Japanese people get their sushi fix? The answer, overwhelmingly, is restaurants. And contrary to what you might see in glossy travel magazines, most Japanese people aren’t regularly dining at Michelin-starred establishments.

Kaiten-Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi): The King of Convenience

• The Revolving Revolution: Kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants are ubiquitous, offering a casual, affordable, and fun dining experience. Plates of different colored items revolve on a conveyor belt for you to pick what you want.

• Price Point Paradise: You can expect to pay around 100-200 yen per plate, making it an accessible meal for everyone.

• Family Fun: Kaitenzushi is popular among families and friends, making it a social and enjoyable outing.

• Famous Chains: Some popular kaitenzushi chains include Sushiro (known for its variety and innovative offerings), Kura Sushi (popular for its interactive games and dishes delivered by a mini-bullet train) and Hama Sushi (a well-balanced chain with a broad menu). They’re not just for budget-conscious diners; they provide a fun and diverse range of options.

• Beyond Basic: While often inexpensive, conveyor belt sushi has come a long way from basic fare. You’ll find everything from classic tuna and salmon to more creative offerings like tempura sushi and even desserts.

Unpretentious Neighborhood Sushi Joints

Beyond the conveyor belt, you’ll find a vast number of smaller, independent sushi restaurants dotted throughout the country.

• The Local Experience: These often family-run establishments provide a more intimate and personalized dining experience than the big chains.

• The Price is Right: A satisfying sushi meal at these spots might cost around 1,000-3,000 yen, making it a good choice for a relaxed evening out.

• Quality Without the Pretense: You will experience fresh and delicious sushi without breaking the bank, and they focus on the quality and taste of the food over unnecessary theatrics.

These low-priced sushi restaurants in residential areas are recently called ‘machi-zushi’ (meaning sushi restaurants in one’s own town) and are booming among the general public.

High-End Sushi: A Rare Treat, Not the Everyday

Now, let’s talk about the high-end sushi restaurants, the ones you see featured in documentaries and Instagram feeds. Yes, they exist, and yes, they are incredibly impressive, but they’re not the norm for the average person in Japan.

The Ginza Experience

• The Pinnacle of Sushi: High-end sushi restaurants, especially those in districts like Ginza in Tokyo, are the equivalent of fine dining establishments.

• Price Point Considerations: Expect to pay around 40,000-50,000 yen (or considerably more) for a set course, and usually requires a reservation.

• Beyond the Plate: The experience at these restaurants is not just about the food; it’s about the ambiance, the chef’s expertise, and the overall ritual of dining.

• Special Occasion: It’s a destination for special occasions, business dinners, or when you really want to indulge.

The Art of Omakase

• Trusting the Chef: Many high-end sushi restaurants offer omakase (chef’s choice), where the chef creates a personalized menu based on the freshest seasonal ingredients.

• Elevated Flavors: The ingredients used in high-end sushi are of exceptional quality, often sourced from specific regions, and the preparation is incredibly precise.

Conclusion: Dispelling Misconceptions and Embracing the Diversity of Sushi

There are primarily two misconceptions that foreigners have regarding sushi in Japan: the idea that Japanese people make sushi at home and the perception that sushi at restaurants is always high-end. However, these are incorrect. We rarely make sushi at home, and we do not always eat high-end sushi.

The author has lived in Europe for the past few years and is often surprised to find that most sushi restaurants only offer tuna and salmon. Our joy of eating sushi comes from the wide variety of 30 to 50 different types of fish and shellfish, and from the deliberation of what to eat today.

If you have the opportunity to visit Japan, please enjoy this wealth of options and experience the diverse world of sushi. It will surely overturn your preconceptions about sushi.

The post Beyond the Michelin Stars: Unraveling the Truth About Sushi in Japan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

A Two-Tiered System of Chocolate Giving

In Japan, February 14th sees a flurry of chocolate purchases, but not all are created equal. Two distinct types of chocolate dominate the day: giri-choco and honmei-choco, each with its own social significance.

The Prevalence of Giri-Choco: Chocolate of Obligation

Giri-choco, translating to “obligation chocolate,” is a crucial aspect of the Japanese Valentine’s Day experience. This type of chocolate is given primarily to male colleagues, bosses, and acquaintances as a gesture of social courtesy and obligation. It’s a formal acknowledgment of professional or social relationships, rather than an expression of romantic interest.

The quality of giri-choco is often lower than honmei-choco, typically consisting of mass-produced chocolates in simple packaging. While not intended as a romantic gesture, it is an expected part of corporate and social life, and many women feel a sense of duty to participate.

Honmei-Choco: Chocolate Driven by Genuine Affection

In contrast, honmei-choco, or “true feeling chocolate,” is reserved for romantic partners, boyfriends, or husbands, as well as to someone with whom the giver hopes to begin a relationship.

This chocolate is considered an expression of genuine affection and is typically of higher quality. Often, honmei-choco is handmade or purchased from specialty chocolatiers. The cost and effort involved underscore the emotional investment in the gift.

This distinction between giri-choco and honmei-choco highlights the dual nature of Valentine’s Day in Japan, where personal feelings are interwoven with social expectations.

The Role of Morozoff Confectionery in Popularizing the Tradition

A pivotal role in establishing the practice of women giving chocolate on Valentine’s Day in Japan was played by Morozoff Confectionery, based in Kobe. According to one theory, the company was the first to initiate the idea by publishing an advertisement with the tagline, “Let’s give chocolates for your Valentine,” in an English-language newspaper for foreigners in the 1930s. Subsequently, the custom of giving chocolates on Valentine’s Day gradually spread, becoming commonplace in the 1980s.

A Visual Spectacle for Travelers

For those traveling to Japan in late January or early February, a visit to department stores and confectionary shops offers a unique glimpse into this tradition. The displays, often resembling chocolate museums, showcase the wide variety of offerings and provide a visual feast that is a seasonal hallmark of the Japanese calendar.

The Rise of “Tomo-choco”

In recent years, a new trend has emerged: tomo-choco, or “friend chocolate.” This practice involves women exchanging chocolates with their female friends. It’s a more lighthearted and casual aspect of Valentine’s Day, focusing on celebrating friendship. Unlike giri-choco, tomo-choco is not born out of obligation but rather from a genuine desire to connect with friends. The gifts are often less formal and can range from homemade treats to fun and trendy chocolates.

The Counterpart: White Day, a Month Later

The exchange of chocolates on Valentine’s Day is not the end of the story. One month later, on March 14th, Japan observes White Day, a reciprocal tradition where men are expected to give gifts in return. The custom, which emerged in the 1970s, requires men to give gifts valued two to three times the worth of the chocolates they received. The gifts are varied, and may range from cookies and sweets to more expensive items like accessories and jewelry.

White Day reinforces the reciprocal nature of social obligations in Japan, further highlighting that Valentine’s Day is not simply a one-sided expression of affection.

Valentine’s Day in Japan is a complex social ritual characterized by the exchange of chocolates, both as an expression of affection and as a fulfillment of social obligation. The distinctions between giri-choco, honmei-choco, and the more recent tomo-choco, the historical role of Morozoff Confectionery, and the reciprocal tradition of White Day all contribute to a unique cultural experience distinct from Valentine’s Day celebrations in the West. The holiday provides insight into the intricate balance of personal sentiment and social expectations within Japanese culture. Indeed, one might jokingly say that Valentine’s Day in Japan has evolved into a day for exchanging chocolates with just about anyone.

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Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

The post 5 of the Best Komainu and their charms, as Selected by Takako Minoshima, Author of “Komainu Sanpo” appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

He was a master of the craft who ruled over the architectural world of the Showa Era, and was referred to as “The Kenzo Tange of the East, and Togo Murano of the West”.

The Nissay Theatre in Hibiya Tokyo, often mentioned as one of Murano’s masterpieces, occasionally holds free architectural tours, so I decided to drop by.

A guide kindly explained a great deal about Murano’s nearly paranoid-level commitment to his style, so I’ll be introducing this unique architectural space while adding what I learned.

First, the entrance.

It’s rumored that some of the mountains in Spain disappeared because of the sheer amount of beautiful, white marble used. Murano was very particular about eliminating the border between the floor and the reception counter in the photo, and so it looks almost as if it has grown up from the floor.

From trash bins and stands to ash trays, nearly everything located within the theatre was originally designed by Murano.

And the red carpet of the stairs leading to the theatre floor is not actually placed on the floor, but the marble has been hollowed out and the carpet embedded. (!)

The handrail with its elegant, delicate curves, was created with the image of “a gentleman reaching out to a lady.”

One of Murano’s famed architectural pieces, the elegant spiral staircase.

Apparently, Murano was very particular about the back of this spiral staircase being perfectly smooth, and didn’t overlook even the smallest of irregularities.

If you touch it, it really is incredibly smooth, and you can almost hear the groans of the tired workers from the time it was made.

The ceiling inside the theatre is akoya pearl oyster, and the walls are glass mosaic tiles. Together they create a wide-open, dreamy space that almost makes you dizzy.

It is said that no matter how hard the skilled craftsmen worked, the task of sticking the tiny pieces of baked glass onto the wall only progressed about 10cm(3.9in) per day.

And apparently, during the final check, Murano was displeased with this corner of the theatre door marked in the photo and personally added a small accent. From the eyes of an amateur, the need for the accent is a complete mystery…

When looking at the way the chairs are aligned, perhaps a number of people feel it’s a little “insane” or “like a nightmare.”

Murano was famous as an extreme perfectionist. When taking a tour of another of his works, the Meguro Ward General Government Building, a guide said that Murano looked up at the ceiling 7 floors above himself and said “I need to move that 10cm to the right…” or something along those lines. (That eyesight is nothing to laugh at, either…!)

I asked the guide, “Weren’t there any craftsmen at the time devastated after hearing that?” to which he replied, “Well, he was a god, so…” It seems everyone at the time followed Murano unwaveringly.

The pure passion and desire to create something truly good along with an extraordinary level of perseverance created a piece of architecture which is still cherished today.

That being said, the ‘perfect’ structure originally envisioned by the master Murano has been partially altered due to unavoidable circumstances such as creating a barrier-free space, the addition of LED lighting, etc.

Although I’m not personally connected to the architecture, even I thought “Murano must be rolling over in his grave over these changes…” and felt a bit worried. If you stop by sometime, I recommend you stop and take the time to take in all the details of the building. I think it deserves to be a world heritage site.

The number of buildings left by Togo Murano is decreasing, but some remain, so if you ever travel around Japan you should definitely add them to your list of sights to see.

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5 of the cutest representations of Tenjin in Tokyo

It’s been 7 years since I started visiting shrines during the “Goshuin boom” (when tourists flocked to shrines and temples to collect each institution’s unique commemorative stamp).
From Inari shrines to Hachiman shrines, Yasaka shrines and Hikawa shrines, there are many shrines with the same name throughout the country, but I believe the easiest to understand and wander are the Tenjin shrines.

Shrines with names like Tenjin, Tenmangu, and Kitano are all within the same category of “Tenjin shrines.” Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Daizaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are especially famous.

These shrines are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, whose symbols include plum trees, bronze statues called “rubbing cows” that visitors rub for health and good luck, and sweets sold in front of the shrine gate.

In older areas of town where Tenjin shrines are located, there are often shops selling famous sweets like umegae mochi (a sweet grilled dumpling filled with red bean paste) and tenjin kashi (sweets made of sugar and molded into auspicious shapes, such as plum blossoms or Sugawara no Michizane himself), so memories of visits to a Tenjin shrine are often paired with those of sweet treats.

In addition, those who are familiar with Tenjin know of the shrines’ “hidden mascot.”
On January 25^th every year, a day known as “the first Tenjin day of the year,” a ritual called “Usokae*” is held at Tenjin shrines nationwide. During this ritual, the shrines sell wooden carvings of bullfinches. Some shrines sell out of these carvings in the blink of an eye, so I feel lucky whenever I encounter these bullfinches.

* A Shinto ritual that ousts bad luck and invites good luck through the exchange of wooden bullfinch figurines. The Japanese word for “bullfinch” is uso, which is also the word for “lie.” The word tori means both “bird” and “take.” Therefore, by exchanging bullfinches, one transforms the misfortunes of the previous year into “lies” and “takes” good fortune in exchange.

Without further ado, I’ll introduce my five recommended Tenjin shrines in Tokyo. Since I just introduced the notion of the first Tenjin day of the year, I’ll talk about some shrines that are very popular during this time and what their bullfinch figurines are like.

Kitano is to Kyoto as Kameido is to Tokyo!
Kameido Tenjin Shrine

When discussing Tenjin shrines in Tokyo, one cannot leave out this shrine.
The moment you pass through the large torii gate and climb the moon bridge, you will see the wisteria trellis and majestic shrine before you, and the Tokyo Sky Tree on your left. Right away you will see views that will make you glad that you came.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and it’s fun to visit not only the Tenjin shrine, but also the Benzaiten, Utaki, and Hanazono shrines that are also on the premises.

By the way, at Kameido Tenjin, the names of the plum tree varieties are hung on each trunk. There are numerous varieties of plum tree, and they are like an idol group; when the trees start to bloom, it’s fun to look for the variety that you like best.

On your way home, be sure to stop by the historic confectionary Funabashiya and try the famous kuzumochi.

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Kameido Tenjin’s bullfinches are small and cute little figurines. There are seven different sizes, and you can get a small one for 600 yen. They’re the kind of charms that you’ll find yourself buying a lot of as souvenirs for your loved ones.

If a 3D miniature were made, it would definitely be popular!
Gojoten Shrine

This is a shrine nestled on the banks of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno. It was founded 1,900 years ago.

The legendary prince Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have been the first to worship here when he passed through Ueno on his way to subdue rebels living in Japan’s eastern provinces. Yamato Takeru offered gratitude for a blessing from the god of medicine, and therefore the shrine is said to have the power to heal illness.

The highlight of the shrine are its grounds, which would be interesting as a 3D-printed miniature. The spacious and bright Gojoten Shrine and the small and mysterious Hanazono Inari Shrine are almost stacked on top of one another like bunk beds.

Gojoten and Hanazono Inari are connected by stairs, and part of the shrine’s appeal is the ability to climb up and down and cross back and forth between the two spaces, which have a totally different feel from one another.

The bullfinch carvings sold at Gojoten Shrine are concealed inside envelopes, so you just have to go for it and pick one. Most of them have silver paper decorating their heads, but a few of them have gold paper decorations.

I like this playfulness from a shrine that otherwise seems very serious.

Get lost in photogenic Edo
Yujima Tenjin Shrine

This is a shrine that makes you wonder whether time and space have twisted back on themselves. Although unmistakably located in the current Reiwa Era, this is a mysterious place where you can catch glimpses of the dashing men and women of the Edo Period among the scenery, as through thin curtains of time have overlapped.

On sunny days, the road approaching the shrine is lined with shops, so I bought some sweet fried buns for 150 yen each (it’s impossible to eat just one) and ate them on the temple grounds.

I gave my greetings to the spirit of Michizane and rubbed the metal “rubbing cow” statue.

It’s also possible to worship at the Sasatsuka Inari Shrine on the same grounds, and at Togakushi Shrine, where the god of sports, Ame no Tajikarao, is enshrined. On your way home, you can purchase daifuku as a souvenir at the nearby confectionary Tsuruse.

Yushima Tenjin’s bullfinch charm is a little unusual; it’s shaped like a stick and looks as though it’s just sprouted up out of the ground. The cute red face makes it look as if the bullfinch drank some of the gods’ sacred sake.

A little-known but spectacular spot
Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine

This Tenjin shrine has the best view! It’s a small shrine known only to a few, about ten minutes’ walk from the LaQua hot spring spa behind Korakuen Station, but visitors can experience the extraordinary here.
The shrine’s torii gate is an entrance to another world. Climb the shadowy stairs, and the shrine grounds begin at the top. A figure of a cow that has become white and fluffy from all the fortune slips tied to it will welcome you.

Next to the torii are a pair of guardian dog statues, and inside the torii are two “rubbing cow” statues. What’s cute about the cow statues is that they have been rubbed and patted by so many visitors that their horns have been worn away.

There is a rock on the left side of the grounds, facing the shrine, where shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo sat. To think, the illustrious Yoritomo came here! In fact, Minamoto no Yoritomo built this shrine while on an expedition in eastern Japan, in gratitude for the god of learning’s blessing and divine message. Heading back from the shrine, you can see a wonderful view from the top of the stairs of the piercing blue sky and the town below.

The bullfinch from Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine comes in a wooden box, wrapped in soft paper. From its chubby appearance, it looks like it will bring good luck.

Where the cows and foxes all stare
Hirakawa Tenmangu

The first think I think when I visit Hirakawa Tenmangu is, “So many cows!” There are five “rubbing cow” statues. There is also an Inari shrine on the grounds, so when you pass through the torii fate you will be greeted by both cows and foxes.

It’s easy to think that a shrine in a business district won’t have any charm, but since it’s surrounded by office buildings that block the sunlight, the shrine will sometimes appear to be covered in blue shadows, or the light reflected on the windows of the buildings will shimmer. A nice aspect of shrines in business districts is that sometimes they have a variety of faces; sometimes they appear submerged in water, and other times they are radiant and sparkling. Hirakawa Tenmangu is precisely this kind of shrine.

The bullfinches at Hirakawa Tenmangu are decorated with gold paper on their heads. They have big eyes and a face that anyone would think is cute. They are packaged along with rice crackers. It’s a bullfinch that you’ll want to spend the year with, together at home.

(* Please note that at each shrine, the bullfinch charms will no longer be available once they are all sold.)

Text&Photographs by  Ayaha Yaguchi

Writer / editor / illustrator. Born in Osaka. Writes mainly for magazines, the web, and advertisements. Ayaha’s areas of expertise are travel, the outdoors, science, and history. She began traveling in 2013 when she became fascinated by natural spots rich in spiritual power, and in 2020 she obtained her first-class boating license. Her current dream is to visit shrines and temples on remote sea islands.

The post 5 of the Cutest Representations of Tenjin in Tokyo. Travel writer and Shrine Enthusiast Ayaha Yaguchi Chooses. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The gyoza that I ate in Kyoto had a gentle flavor, based on bonito stock and making use of local vegetables from Kyoto. I found that the taste was delicate in a way that I had never experienced in Tokyo.

I was always fixated on dishes like yudofu (boiled tofu) and obanzai (an array of assorted Kyoto-style small dishes) as the famous must-eats when visiting Kyoto, but discovering the “distinctive flavors of Kyoto” in such an unexpected place was an exciting experience.

I’m sure that visitors to Japan, too, will encounter experiences of this sort during their time in the country.

To take just one example, those who have traveled so many miles to Japan are often eager to try staples of Japanese cuisine such as sushi, tempura, and ramen.

But after sampling these, I’d urge visitors to also sample some of Japan’s own takes on Western cuisine.

Japanese people love French, Italian, Chinese, and other international cuisines as well as their own. “Yoshoku”, a category of food that has its roots in Western cuisine but has become so well established now that one could refer to it as Japanese food, is especially loved by the Japanese, consistently ranking among the most popular types of cuisine in Japan.

Popular yoshoku dishes such as Japanese-style hamburger steak (hamburg ハンバーグ), omelette -wrapped rice (omurice オムライス), curry rice（カレーライス）, and Japanese-style gratin are a fixture in every town and are also standard dishes on the menus of roadside family restaurants.

From yuzu-scented pasta to steak with wasabi sauce and pizza with teriyaki chicken topping, you will be hard-pressed to find this distinctly Japanese-influenced Western-style cuisine outside of Japan.

With Tokyo now boasting more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world, the city is home to extremely high-quality flavors, as well as many chefs who study cuisine with a stubborn determination that borders on obsession. It is a journey of culinary adventure that is truly worth taking.

The post What is “Yoshoku”? The Excitement of Eating Foreign Cuisine in Japan. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

If you’re traveling in Japan, a railway trip is something I am sure you would enjoy.

Japanese railways are famous worldwide for being on time, so much so that an apology is broadcast if a train is just two minutes late. But this almost neurotic degree of precision is not the only reason they’re famous.

If you take a ride on local lines that use trains with just two carriages, you will pass beautiful beaches, mountains, and tranquil countryside. You will surely encounter the kind of Japanese scenery to be found in Ghibli films.

In Japan, trains run far and wide across the entire country, and there are “train nerds” in abundance to go with them: enthusiasts who, for their sheer variety, can hardly be compared to their to their fellow train enthusiasts around the world.

There are people that just love riding trains, those that love taking photos of them, those that simply enjoy listening to their different chimes and whistles, those that research the interiors, exteriors, and equipment of the carriages, those that love to collect tickets and railways merchandise, those that enjoy researching their timetables, those that love the special lunchboxes on sale at major stations across the country, and more.

There is a name for each and every one of these types of obsessions, from Toritetsu (people that love taking photos of trains), to Noritetsu (people that love riding trains). In recent times, young female fashion models and teen icons have confessed to being train nerds, and the idea that railways are only a hobby for men has changed.

In the inner-city area, there is more often a prevailing perception of trains as mere modes of transport to carry the tired population to work and back home each day. But in more rural areas, you will find people obsessed with railways, enjoying their journeys with their camera and train timetable in hand.

Buying some beer and a lunchbox at the station, and gazing out of the window while enjoying your meal, is nothing short of paradise.

 

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In fact, railway companies in Japan do not simply seek to provide a mere means of transport. Instead, they set out to create an all-around railway experience every day.

Each railway company has tried out various unique selling points: including a sake sommelier on a local train, creating an almost bar-like atmosphere, and a special Shinkansen with the concept of a “moving modern art museum”.

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One railway company hired a world famous architect and winner of The Pritzker Architecture Prize to design the interiors of their carriages. Another found a Michelin-starred chef to design its menus. There is never a shortage of railway-related topics to talk about.

Just why are there so many different types of train nerds here in Japan? How about taking a train trip in Japan and finding out for yourself?

The post Many Different Kinds of People are Obsessed with Railways in Japan. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

In Japan, people don’t take their partner to parties hosted by their company. In American and European movies, high-school students go in couples to their proms. Japan doesn’t have this tradition.

The Japanese think it is strange when a First Lady works in an official capacity alongside her husband. To the Japanese mind, presidents and prime ministers are elected but their spouses are not. First Ladies, then, should have little to do with their husband’s business.

In Japan, negative social pressures around being alone are lower than in western countries. The lack of stigma for going solo promotes more of a culture of solitude in Japan. In this country, the number of single-person households is over 35%, and 70% of unmarried men and 60% of unmarried women do not have a partner.

Now, the “super solo”culture in Japan is rising.
The “Ohitorisama” movement has become very popular recently. “Ohitorisama” means something like “party for one.”

Restaurants, karaoke places, and hotels offer a variety of offerings for “Ohitorisama.”
Many hotels are optimized for solo travelers.

Capsule hotels( pod hotels) are one of Japan’s best known and unique types of accommodation.

For people who find these too small for relaxation, another option is the Japanese “business hotel” – originally designed for single guests on business trips. Although the rooms are small, they have everything you need, including showers and toilets. You can’t find them in the countryside, but you will find them in most large cities.

Camping alone has also become a booming trend. Japan may be the easiest country in the world for being alone. It may look like a lonely country from a western perspective, however, there is a carefree aspect to it.

The post What is “Ohitorisama”? Is Japan the Best Country for a Solo Traveler? appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

They also said, that Nori, which is the Japanese name for edible seaweed, is also not accepted by Western people, because they don’t like to eat black colored food.

Nowadays Sushi has become a very popular food around the world.
I believe that people’s opinions may have been due to prejudice.

Nowadays, Sushi, Ramen, Curry rice, Japanese food is common around the world, however, I think Japanese sweets, we call them “Wagashi”, are not famous yet.

Anko, Japanese sweet red bean paste, is a very important ingredient for Wagashi.
Many Japanese people say that Western people don’t like sweet red bean paste.

Should I doubt their opinions? I think Wagashi has the potential to be a big hit in the world.

Western people are not familiar with Anko, but there are many varieties of Wagashi these days.

At convenience stores, we can find a lot of western-style wagashi.
For example, Daifuku (rice cake) stuffed with sweet filling not only red bean paste but also whipped cream, Dorayaki stuffed with chocolate cream, and so on. I am interested to find out what kind of Wagashi western people find attractive.

The post What Is “Wagashi”? Traditional Japanese Sweets are Evolving now! appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.