A Two-Tiered System of Chocolate Giving

In Japan, February 14th sees a flurry of chocolate purchases, but not all are created equal. Two distinct types of chocolate dominate the day: giri-choco and honmei-choco, each with its own social significance.

The Prevalence of Giri-Choco: Chocolate of Obligation

Giri-choco, translating to “obligation chocolate,” is a crucial aspect of the Japanese Valentine’s Day experience. This type of chocolate is given primarily to male colleagues, bosses, and acquaintances as a gesture of social courtesy and obligation. It’s a formal acknowledgment of professional or social relationships, rather than an expression of romantic interest.

The quality of giri-choco is often lower than honmei-choco, typically consisting of mass-produced chocolates in simple packaging. While not intended as a romantic gesture, it is an expected part of corporate and social life, and many women feel a sense of duty to participate.

Honmei-Choco: Chocolate Driven by Genuine Affection

In contrast, honmei-choco, or “true feeling chocolate,” is reserved for romantic partners, boyfriends, or husbands, as well as to someone with whom the giver hopes to begin a relationship.

This chocolate is considered an expression of genuine affection and is typically of higher quality. Often, honmei-choco is handmade or purchased from specialty chocolatiers. The cost and effort involved underscore the emotional investment in the gift.

This distinction between giri-choco and honmei-choco highlights the dual nature of Valentine’s Day in Japan, where personal feelings are interwoven with social expectations.

The Role of Morozoff Confectionery in Popularizing the Tradition

A pivotal role in establishing the practice of women giving chocolate on Valentine’s Day in Japan was played by Morozoff Confectionery, based in Kobe. According to one theory, the company was the first to initiate the idea by publishing an advertisement with the tagline, “Let’s give chocolates for your Valentine,” in an English-language newspaper for foreigners in the 1930s. Subsequently, the custom of giving chocolates on Valentine’s Day gradually spread, becoming commonplace in the 1980s.

A Visual Spectacle for Travelers

For those traveling to Japan in late January or early February, a visit to department stores and confectionary shops offers a unique glimpse into this tradition. The displays, often resembling chocolate museums, showcase the wide variety of offerings and provide a visual feast that is a seasonal hallmark of the Japanese calendar.

The Rise of “Tomo-choco”

In recent years, a new trend has emerged: tomo-choco, or “friend chocolate.” This practice involves women exchanging chocolates with their female friends. It’s a more lighthearted and casual aspect of Valentine’s Day, focusing on celebrating friendship. Unlike giri-choco, tomo-choco is not born out of obligation but rather from a genuine desire to connect with friends. The gifts are often less formal and can range from homemade treats to fun and trendy chocolates.

The Counterpart: White Day, a Month Later

The exchange of chocolates on Valentine’s Day is not the end of the story. One month later, on March 14th, Japan observes White Day, a reciprocal tradition where men are expected to give gifts in return. The custom, which emerged in the 1970s, requires men to give gifts valued two to three times the worth of the chocolates they received. The gifts are varied, and may range from cookies and sweets to more expensive items like accessories and jewelry.

White Day reinforces the reciprocal nature of social obligations in Japan, further highlighting that Valentine’s Day is not simply a one-sided expression of affection.

Valentine’s Day in Japan is a complex social ritual characterized by the exchange of chocolates, both as an expression of affection and as a fulfillment of social obligation. The distinctions between giri-choco, honmei-choco, and the more recent tomo-choco, the historical role of Morozoff Confectionery, and the reciprocal tradition of White Day all contribute to a unique cultural experience distinct from Valentine’s Day celebrations in the West. The holiday provides insight into the intricate balance of personal sentiment and social expectations within Japanese culture. Indeed, one might jokingly say that Valentine’s Day in Japan has evolved into a day for exchanging chocolates with just about anyone.

The post Valentine’s Day in Japan: A Complex Dance of Chocolate, Obligation, and Reciprocity appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

“Why Morioka?” was a question echoed not just by me, but by many Japanese.

Morioka, nestled in the scenic Tohoku Region, is a charming small city. Yet, it hasn’t been a top destination for Japanese tourists, lacking the plethora of historical landmarks like castles or traditional Japanese wooden architecture from the Edo period.

Instead, Morioka boasts a collection of western-style buildings. This architectural choice traces back to the involvement of notable architects during the Meiji era who contributed to the town planning and construction. However, this may not hold the same allure for European and American travelers.

For Japanese tourists, the allure of Morioka lies in several cherished activities:

Capturing moments against the backdrop of its western-style architecture, offering a taste of foreign exploration.
Indulging in the culinary delights of the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”: Wanko Soba, Reimen, and Jajamen.
Embarking on a journey through the city’s handicraft shops, where traditional crafts like Nanbu ironware and Morioka inkstones await discovery.

However, the New York Times chose to highlight not these experiences, but rather the city’s modest size.

They celebrated Morioka as a compact urban oasis, perfect for leisurely strolls and unwinding—an endorsement echoed by a passionate journalist advocating for Morioka’s charm.

As I became aware of the differences in sensitivity between Japanese and foreigners, I found it intriguing. This realization prompted me to embark on journeys, seeking to ascertain whether I, as a Japanese person, could experience the same sensations.

Very affordable lodging options are still readily available in Morioka.

Upon arrival, I secured a room at the recently inaugurated  “Richmond Hotel Moriokaekimae” conveniently situated opposite Morioka Station.

To my surprise, the rate for two guests was ¥12,800 (approximately $83/€76) per night. The room exuded cleanliness and was stocked generously with complimentary amenities including shampoo, cosmetics, toothpaste, and even facial packs.

Moreover, the hotel boasted a ground-floor convenience store offering delectable rice balls, packed lunches, and confections at reasonable prices.

Despite the recent surge in tourism across Kyoto and Tokyo driving accommodation costs to exorbitant levels, Morioka remains largely unaffected. This realization brought me immense relief.

A taxi driver told me what happened in Morioka after “New York Times” .

I took a taxi to have lunch from the station. I asked the driver, “Are many foreign tourists coming to Morioka?” He chuckled and replied, “Not so many at the moment. However, they often choose to explore Morioka on foot, considering it a delightful city for strolling. Hence, encounters with them for me are relatively infrequent. The New York Times article was not a great boon for taxi drivers, ha-ha.”

Contrary to the common perception that people in the Tohoku region are reserved and reticent, I found the residents to be remarkably articulate and adept at conversing with strangers. This unexpected discovery added an intriguing dimension to my travel experience in Morioka.

During my three-day journey, I encountered few Western visitors in Morioka.

Upon my visit to Morioka in March 2024, it appeared that the buzz from the New York Times had already waned.

The tourist scene was predominantly Japanese, with Western travelers being a rare sight.

The only encounter with tourists from a Western country was at a quaint Izakaya.

However, the language barrier proved formidable as the staff couldn’t communicate in English, leading to our regretful exclusion from the establishment. This incident left me pondering Morioka’s limited readiness to accommodate international visitors, feeling its size and local infrastructure were somewhat inadequate.

Nonetheless, Morioka remains a hidden gem in Japan’s northern region, offering delightful experiences for domestic travelers. Its appeal lies in its culinary delights at reasonable prices, exquisite crafts for purchase, and the opportunity to savor fine Sake at Izakayas. However, it’s evident that Morioka poses challenges for foreign tourists, highlighting the need for enhanced accessibility and support for international visitors.

If you’re up for more than just strolling through the city and want to dive into Morioka like a Japanese tourist, I would introduce you to the perfect spot you should visit.

1. Kogensha   Map

KOGENSHA in Morioka is more than just a folk-crafts store. It’s a collection of charming buildings housing a coffee shop, gallery, and store, all surrounding a picturesque courtyard. If you want to buy some MINGEI items, here is the best place.

2. KAMASADA Map

KAMASADA  is a brand producing an iron kettle called “Nanbu Tekki”. (It is a great article to know what Kamasada is.).
Strolling down the street where Kamasada sits, you’ll find a delightful array of shops, perfect for a spot of shopping hopping.

3. Yakiniku Restaurant Yonai map

Indulge in Reimen, a beloved member of Morioka’s ‘Three Great Noodles’. And don’t miss out on Yakiniku, a local specialty of Iwate, renowned for its dairy farming. At this joint, you can savor both delights in one sitting. Just a heads up: be ready to queue up, as this spot is a local favorite!

4. Morioka Tenmangu Shrine Map

This shrine is famous among Japanese literature fans because one of the renowned poets, Takuboku Ishikawa, used to stroll around here. He had a particular fondness for the guardian dog with a comical face.

5. Due Mani  Map

Is it strange to savor Italian cuisine in Japan? Not at all. In fact, it’s an intriguing fusion of culinary cultures.

Here, Italian fare takes on a Japanese twist, with dishes characterized by simplicity in both ingredients and seasoning, akin to traditional Japanese cuisine.

Nestled in a quaint and bustling corner, this restaurant may be small, but it’s a beloved hotspot among locals and visitors alike.

Indulge in the flavors of the Tohoku region masterfully incorporated into Italian dishes. Just remember to secure your reservations ahead of time, as this gem tends to fill up quickly.

Have you caught on yet? For many Japanese travelers, the ultimate joys of exploring lie in the art of shopping and indulging in delicious cuisine！

The post Why New York Times featured Morioka? A Japanese journalist set out on a journey to find out why. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…!
Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”.
Here, he recommends his five favorite sake breweries.
Let’s follow him on this journey and savor the whole history of this delicious drink!

–What drew you to sake in the first place?

It was about 20 years ago when I first became interested in sake.

At the time, there were still remnants of the “third shochu boom,” and sake was losing its momentum. As the boom began to pick up, I began to include sake brewery tours in my travel plans.

My theory has always been that sake tastes even better when you know the brewer and the background, so I feel that the culture of sake brewery tours has further encouraged people’s interest in sake.

–As a long-time analyst of the industry, what do you think the appeal of sake is currently?

Of course, the sweetness and richness of the flavor from the rice, but in the past 10 to 15 years, there has been a shift in the number of breweries, and new breweries have started brewing sake with new ideas, which is a great way to encounter some fresh inspiration.

–I want to visit a brewery! What is the etiquette for visiting a brewery?

As long as you follow the minimum rules, such as not eating fermented foods on the day of the tour, you should be able to enjoy the tour at your leisure without being too formal about it.

In addition to the sake production process, many breweries have a long history, so be sure to observe the details of the buildings and equipment.

If you are going on an overnight trip, you should definitely ask the brewery for recommendations on places to drink in the area.

They can often tell you about their favorite places that you won’t find in the guide books, and they usually have a large selection of the brewery’s products.
Sake tastes even better when you see the brewing process in action.

5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today, selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo

1. Umegae Shuzo (Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture) / 梅ヶ枝酒造

This brewery’s storehouse was built in 1860 and is a national tangible cultural property. The roof retains some of its old tiles, and it is strengthened by pillars and beams using a method called “netsugi”, making it a very interesting building.

The motto of the brewery is not to rely too much on machines, but to brew sake with the power of delicate human senses. Here you can sample a wide range of products, from ginjo sake to amazake, as well as shochu, gin, and liqueurs.

A cave called “Mukyudo (無窮洞) ” which was dug during World War Ⅱ, is preserved right next to the warehouse.
This former air-raid shelter was dug out and used by teachers and elementary school students of the school that once stood there. The podium, kitchen, and bookshelves were all dug out by hand. Be sure to check out the sake brewery as well.

2.SENKIN (Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture) / せんきん

Although established in 1806, the current brewer, who is from the 11th generation of this brewing family, has a unique background as a former sommelier. This brewery is characterized by its sake’s sweet and sour taste, which is not typical of Japanese sake, and is rapidly gaining more and more fans. While the building itself is traditional, the sake brewery has adopted a domaine (self-sufficient) style, and expresses the flavors of the region.

3. Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture) / 吉野酒造

It is relatively rare to find a brewery that mills its own rice, and the sake brewed with natural water on the premises is really light and full of flavor.

Koshikoi (腰古井)  is a highly acclaimed sake that has won numerous awards, but Ginjo (a premium sake made with natural water and only the best part of the rice , with the outer husks removed) has also garnered many plaudits. The plum wine made with ginjo is also excellent.

4. Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture) / 松浦一酒造

This long-established sake brewery has been operating since 1716 in Imari City, Saga Prefecture, which is also famous for its pottery. There are various types of sake on offer here, from ginjo sake to regular sake, many of which are made from Kyushu-grown sake rice such as “reihou” and “saganohana,” allowing you to fully enjoy the pleasure of local sake.

On the other hand, this brewery is also famous for the Kappa mummy (Kappa is a well known Japanese goblin that resides in ponds and rivers) that is enshrined there. The mummy, which was discovered about 70 years ago during renovation of the main building, probably came from mainland China and is now an important guardian deity of the brewery.
In order to promote the brewery as a “tourist brewery,” about 200 valuable and fascinating ethnic materials, such as old brewing tools and farming equipment, are also on display.

5 Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture) / 泰石酒造

Actually, sake breweries do exist in Okinawa. The original starting point of Taikoku sake brewing came from making shochu from sugar cane after the war. Later, as the company expanded into whiskey and liqueurs, it began making sake using air conditioning and cooling equipment. “Reimei” was launched in the form of purchasing sake rice milled in Kyushu. Nowadays, it is riding the local sake boom and attracts many tourists from the mainland.

The building also differs from other sake breweries in that it is made of concrete. In the past, there have been several incidents where neighbors mistook the steam rising from the brewery for a fire and called the police, an episode typical of Okinawa’s unfamiliarity with sake culture.

Text&Photographs by Satoshi Tomokiyo  ⇒  Twitter

Free Writer,editor. Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”. “Japan Craft Beer Travelogue/『日本クラフトビール紀行』”. “War ruins you must visit at least once/『一度は行きたい戦争遺跡』”. “Sketchy rumors, experience report/『怪しい噂 体験ルポ』” etc.

The post 5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today , as Selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo, Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries” appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

The post 5 of the Best Komainu and their charms, as Selected by Takako Minoshima, Author of “Komainu Sanpo” appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Mt. Horaiji, in Aichi Prefecture, is one of many areas connected to Naomasa Ii. He became one of the 4 main generals serving under Ieyasu Tokugawa, and served as the feudal lord of Hikone, an area famous for the character “Hikonyan”.

This temple featuring a rough, rocky background is called Horaiji, and is the main mountain of the Shingon Buddhist Gochi sect created in the year 703.

This is a place filled with spiritual energy, where legend says that Ieyasu Tokugawa’s mother, Odai No Kata, prayed for a child and was blessed with Ieyasu. It is also the location where Naomasa, who had been targeted due to political conflict, took refuge when he was a child.

Mt. Horaiji is the remnant of a volcanic eruption 14 million years ago and features exposed rhyolite. It’s long been considered a sacred mountain in Shugendo belief.

Nowadays, you can easily drive to the vicinity of the main hall.
However, you can also get to the hall by experiencing the more majestic and captivating climb of 1,425 stone steps while looking out at the Niomon Gate and Kasasugi, which is a nearly 60m(196ft) tall cedar tree.
If you have the time, put on some walking shoes and try the climb yourself.

The view from the front of the temple is breathtaking!
Okumikawa’s scenery lacks forbiddingly tall mountains, despite its significance in Shugendo belief, and so you can visit it quite easily compared to other sites, which is nice.

Well then, after visiting the temple, let’s also head to the adjacent Horaisan Toshogu Shrine. Like the Nikko Toshogu, it’s one of the three major Toshogu shrines in Japan built under the direction of Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu Tokugawa.

A bright red Gongen-style shrine enveloped in thick trees. There’s a very sacred air about it.

Iemitsu Tokugawa, the 3rd Shogun, instructed the shrine to be built after hearing the legend about Ieyasu Tokugawa’s birth story at Horaiji.

The gorgeous architecture built around the same period as the Nikko Toshogu is a highlight.

This temple actually has a number of connections and stories related to the Tokugawa clan.

For example, this Aoi family crest is in a rare shape that was only used up to the time of Iemitsu.

I didn’t realize until being told by the priest, but the stem of the Aoi is in the shape from the Edo period, and different from the shapes found afterwards.

They had a large number of documents in the shrine office, and when I asked them about the architectural style and history of the structure, they explained everything in great detail.

The ‘Tora Doji’, or ‘tiger child’, is associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was born in the Chinese year of the tiger, in the month of the tiger (modern day February), on the day of the tiger (a day which comes in cycles of 12), during the time of the tiger (modern day 4~6p.m.).
They offer small versions of it as good luck charms for sale at the shrine office.

The story behind them is moving.

What do you think those 2 round stones in the back are?
Actually, they’re guardian dogs.（※Called ‘Koma Inu’, guardian dogs are stone sculptures often placed at the entrances to shrines, etc. They prevent evil spirits from entering holy areas.）

Dating from 1651, 1940 and 1990, the oldest is at the back and the newest at the front.
Soldiers who went to war would carve pieces from it and take it with them to battle, believing the luck of Ieyasu would protect them from bullets and other projectiles. It’s very sad to see just how small and round the first and second dogs have become. We must all wish that times of peace will continue endlessly, and the third dog will never be carved by anyone.

Despite Horaiji having such a rich history and beautiful view, it’s still comparatively unknown throughout Japan, and you can relax and experience it at your leisure.

A hidden hot spring nearby, Yuya Onsen, features a wonderful inn and it’s lovely to spend some time there and take a stroll through the area.

The Iida Line, which houses the nearest station to Yuya Onsen, is a fan favorite among railroad lovers as it runs through very secluded, mostly untouched regions.

⇒ Mt.Horai-ji and Horai-ji Temple

The post A Trip to Mt. Horaiji, a Spiritual Place Connected to the Tokugawa Clan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

In this article, though, I want to introduce you to a deeper Japanese tea experience.

In a mountain village in Tochizawa(栃沢), within the mountains of Shizuoka (AKA Okushizu), lies Sansuien, a tea farm which has been around since the Edo period.

This farm has maintained a teashop on their veranda since the 1980’s with the desire to share local tea with as many people as possible.

Upon arriving at the traditional Japanese-style home built over 100 years ago, we first enjoyed tea and accompanying snacks prepared by Mr. Kiyomi Uchino, the ‘Mountain Tea Master’ himself.

Tochizawa is the birthplace of Syoichi Kokushi（聖一国師）, later known as the “Ancestor of Shizuoka Tea”, who was a high priest from the Kamakura period.
When returning from his studies in Song Dynasty China, he brought back tea seeds.

It’s the perfect place to experience the history and atmosphere of a village where farms have grown tea since long ago, the deliciousness of tea, and the highly formal and prestigious world of tea.

The water used for brewing the tea is springwater from Tochizawa. This water has a long lineage, being delivered from Tochizawa to Fukuoka at the time of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa (a festival in Fukuoka designated as an important example of Japan’s intangible cultural folk heritage), which is connected to Syoichi Kokushi.

Excluding May, which is tea harvesting season in Japan, by making a reservation in advance you can sample tea out on the veranda, tour the factory and tea fields, and experience tea picking.

If you want an even deeper experience, I recommend participating in the tea ceremony, which is available every year in May and November. Mr. Uchino personally prepares tea using carefully selected leaves.

The first thing that surprised me was the tea being served in a champagne glass. You can tell the tea leaves are superb quality just by seeing how fine and sharp they are, like needles.

A small amount of water, about 30-40°C (86-104°F) is added to the leaves, and the first tasting is a sort of slurping of the tea.

First, you enjoy the aroma of the tea. The rich tea has a unique ‘Umami’ I’ve never experienced before. “We call this Mountain Broth”, says Mr. Uchino. Actually, broth is the perfect word for expressing the deep umami flavor. I’ve never had tea like this before!

The tea snacks are served on ‘Shizuhatayaki’ dishes, which have a history of being produced from the Tokugawa Family’s official kiln since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa. The underside of the dish looks like this.

After slightly changing the temperature and enjoying 3 tastings, Mr. Uchino says “Now, please enjoy the leave with some salt.” What?! You mean eat the tea leaves!?

At first I was shocked, but it was super delicious! Although I was having tea, it made me want to drink some Sake(rice wine).

Green tea is often served at sushi restaurants and Japanese pubs for free, so I was under the impression that compared to matcha it was a rather casual drink, but I had no idea it could be so prestigious and formal…

This is a place still mostly unexplored by even Japanese people, and it’s not necessarily easy to access, but I’d definitely recommend it for experienced travelers.

⇒ Sansuien
※If you are interested in tours or tea ceremony experiences, please contact us. ※English Support Not Available

The post [Sansuien], the Origin of Shizuoka Tea, Where You Can Experience a Tea Ceremony Surrounded by Mountains appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

It’s said “If you make pilgrimage to Ise in the West, you must make pilgrimage to the end of the East.” (here, that means Dewa Sanzan). It’s a mysterious and sacred site in the north, and it’s said that if you visit, you can be reborn.

Dewa Sanzan was originally an important site for Shugendo worshippers to be reborn while still alive, where the three mountains represent a person’s present (Mount Haguro), past (Mount Gassan), and future (Mount Yudono). Even now, mountain monks and people dressed in white can be seen coming to worship, which creates a very sacred atmosphere.

the official route is first to pray for the happiness of this world at Mount Haguro, the paradise and afterlife at Mount Gassan, and rebirth at Mount Yudono, but if you’re a beginner, it’s recommended to aim for the Dewa Sanzan Shrine on the summit of Mount Haguro.

The Dewa Sanzan Shrine houses the ‘Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden’, a sanctuary which deifies the three gods of Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono. You can more easily ‘tour’ the three mountains by visiting it.

After taking a 30-minute bus ride from the Tsuruoka Station, you arrive at the Haguro Center. Right before you is Zuijinmon, the main entrance to the holy precincts of the Dewa Sanzan Shrine.

Upon entering, a 1.7km(1mi), 2446 stair stone path begins. Along both sides of the stone steps are a series of 350-500 year old cedar trees awarded 3 stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

The stairs going up are quite tough, but, strangely as you’re walking along the wide road surrounded by enormous cedar trees, you feel a sense of safety and relief akin to being in your mother’s womb.

If you’re feeling bored, watch the stone steps as you continue climbing, and you’ll surely sometimes notice small glasses and lotus flowers have been carved. It’s said that if you find 33 of them, your wish will come true. By the way, I only found about 5…

After climbing for about an hour, you’ll reach the Dewa Sanzan Shrine. Visit the Mount Haguro Sanjingosaiden set up amidst the magnificent shrine and experience rebirth.

The water level in the ‘mirror pond’ in front of the shrine has remained virtually unchanged over the years, and so has been worshipped for its mysterious nature. By the way, the mirror that was brought up from the pond can be viewed at the nearby Dewa Sanzan History Museum.

Well then, you could be satisfied and head back to Tsuruoka by bus at this point, but from July to September, there’s a bus from the summit of Mount Haguro to Mount Gassan, so I also recommend checking it out if you have the chance.

If you want to head to the summit, you’ll need to prepare for some real hiking, but it’s also fun to stroll about the area around the bus stop which has nearly the same elevation.

In shugendo belief, Mount Gassan represents the past and the afterlife, and it’s also the main peak of Dewa Sanzan. Mount Gassan Shrine is located at the peak, and it enshrines ‘Tsukuyomi No Mikoto’, the younger brother of the sun goddess ‘Amaterasu’ who is the highest deity in Japanese Shinto.

Although it had been sunny up until then, when I got off the bus at Mount Gassan, the sky suddenly became obscured by fog. The atmosphere was really like an entrance to the afterlife.

I was deeply moved by the mysterious scenery and atmosphere. It made me really understand why people in the past felt that this was the entrance to the afterlife.

This time I didn’t bring any sort of hiking equipment, so I gave up on going to the summit. Next time, I’d love to take the challenge.

If you visit during summer, you may want to experience a 3-day, 2-night traditional mountain pilgrimage tour package of Mount Haguro, Mount Yudono, and Mount Gassan.

I also recommend staying at pilgrimage-friendly accommodations called ‘Shukubo’, literally meaning ‘sleeping with monks’, or temple lodging.

The cuisine served is called ‘shōjin-ryōri’ and is typically vegetarian.

The post Experience a Pilgrimage of Rebirth at the Sacred site Dewa Sanzan. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

5 of the cutest representations of Tenjin in Tokyo

It’s been 7 years since I started visiting shrines during the “Goshuin boom” (when tourists flocked to shrines and temples to collect each institution’s unique commemorative stamp).
From Inari shrines to Hachiman shrines, Yasaka shrines and Hikawa shrines, there are many shrines with the same name throughout the country, but I believe the easiest to understand and wander are the Tenjin shrines.

Shrines with names like Tenjin, Tenmangu, and Kitano are all within the same category of “Tenjin shrines.” Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Daizaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are especially famous.

These shrines are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, whose symbols include plum trees, bronze statues called “rubbing cows” that visitors rub for health and good luck, and sweets sold in front of the shrine gate.

In older areas of town where Tenjin shrines are located, there are often shops selling famous sweets like umegae mochi (a sweet grilled dumpling filled with red bean paste) and tenjin kashi (sweets made of sugar and molded into auspicious shapes, such as plum blossoms or Sugawara no Michizane himself), so memories of visits to a Tenjin shrine are often paired with those of sweet treats.

In addition, those who are familiar with Tenjin know of the shrines’ “hidden mascot.”
On January 25^th every year, a day known as “the first Tenjin day of the year,” a ritual called “Usokae*” is held at Tenjin shrines nationwide. During this ritual, the shrines sell wooden carvings of bullfinches. Some shrines sell out of these carvings in the blink of an eye, so I feel lucky whenever I encounter these bullfinches.

* A Shinto ritual that ousts bad luck and invites good luck through the exchange of wooden bullfinch figurines. The Japanese word for “bullfinch” is uso, which is also the word for “lie.” The word tori means both “bird” and “take.” Therefore, by exchanging bullfinches, one transforms the misfortunes of the previous year into “lies” and “takes” good fortune in exchange.

Without further ado, I’ll introduce my five recommended Tenjin shrines in Tokyo. Since I just introduced the notion of the first Tenjin day of the year, I’ll talk about some shrines that are very popular during this time and what their bullfinch figurines are like.

Kitano is to Kyoto as Kameido is to Tokyo!
Kameido Tenjin Shrine

When discussing Tenjin shrines in Tokyo, one cannot leave out this shrine.
The moment you pass through the large torii gate and climb the moon bridge, you will see the wisteria trellis and majestic shrine before you, and the Tokyo Sky Tree on your left. Right away you will see views that will make you glad that you came.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and it’s fun to visit not only the Tenjin shrine, but also the Benzaiten, Utaki, and Hanazono shrines that are also on the premises.

By the way, at Kameido Tenjin, the names of the plum tree varieties are hung on each trunk. There are numerous varieties of plum tree, and they are like an idol group; when the trees start to bloom, it’s fun to look for the variety that you like best.

On your way home, be sure to stop by the historic confectionary Funabashiya and try the famous kuzumochi.

この投稿をInstagramで見る

株式会社 船橋屋(@funabashiya_kuzumochi)がシェアした投稿

Kameido Tenjin’s bullfinches are small and cute little figurines. There are seven different sizes, and you can get a small one for 600 yen. They’re the kind of charms that you’ll find yourself buying a lot of as souvenirs for your loved ones.

If a 3D miniature were made, it would definitely be popular!
Gojoten Shrine

This is a shrine nestled on the banks of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno. It was founded 1,900 years ago.

The legendary prince Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have been the first to worship here when he passed through Ueno on his way to subdue rebels living in Japan’s eastern provinces. Yamato Takeru offered gratitude for a blessing from the god of medicine, and therefore the shrine is said to have the power to heal illness.

The highlight of the shrine are its grounds, which would be interesting as a 3D-printed miniature. The spacious and bright Gojoten Shrine and the small and mysterious Hanazono Inari Shrine are almost stacked on top of one another like bunk beds.

Gojoten and Hanazono Inari are connected by stairs, and part of the shrine’s appeal is the ability to climb up and down and cross back and forth between the two spaces, which have a totally different feel from one another.

The bullfinch carvings sold at Gojoten Shrine are concealed inside envelopes, so you just have to go for it and pick one. Most of them have silver paper decorating their heads, but a few of them have gold paper decorations.

I like this playfulness from a shrine that otherwise seems very serious.

Get lost in photogenic Edo
Yujima Tenjin Shrine

This is a shrine that makes you wonder whether time and space have twisted back on themselves. Although unmistakably located in the current Reiwa Era, this is a mysterious place where you can catch glimpses of the dashing men and women of the Edo Period among the scenery, as through thin curtains of time have overlapped.

On sunny days, the road approaching the shrine is lined with shops, so I bought some sweet fried buns for 150 yen each (it’s impossible to eat just one) and ate them on the temple grounds.

I gave my greetings to the spirit of Michizane and rubbed the metal “rubbing cow” statue.

It’s also possible to worship at the Sasatsuka Inari Shrine on the same grounds, and at Togakushi Shrine, where the god of sports, Ame no Tajikarao, is enshrined. On your way home, you can purchase daifuku as a souvenir at the nearby confectionary Tsuruse.

Yushima Tenjin’s bullfinch charm is a little unusual; it’s shaped like a stick and looks as though it’s just sprouted up out of the ground. The cute red face makes it look as if the bullfinch drank some of the gods’ sacred sake.

A little-known but spectacular spot
Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine

This Tenjin shrine has the best view! It’s a small shrine known only to a few, about ten minutes’ walk from the LaQua hot spring spa behind Korakuen Station, but visitors can experience the extraordinary here.
The shrine’s torii gate is an entrance to another world. Climb the shadowy stairs, and the shrine grounds begin at the top. A figure of a cow that has become white and fluffy from all the fortune slips tied to it will welcome you.

Next to the torii are a pair of guardian dog statues, and inside the torii are two “rubbing cow” statues. What’s cute about the cow statues is that they have been rubbed and patted by so many visitors that their horns have been worn away.

There is a rock on the left side of the grounds, facing the shrine, where shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo sat. To think, the illustrious Yoritomo came here! In fact, Minamoto no Yoritomo built this shrine while on an expedition in eastern Japan, in gratitude for the god of learning’s blessing and divine message. Heading back from the shrine, you can see a wonderful view from the top of the stairs of the piercing blue sky and the town below.

The bullfinch from Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine comes in a wooden box, wrapped in soft paper. From its chubby appearance, it looks like it will bring good luck.

Where the cows and foxes all stare
Hirakawa Tenmangu

The first think I think when I visit Hirakawa Tenmangu is, “So many cows!” There are five “rubbing cow” statues. There is also an Inari shrine on the grounds, so when you pass through the torii fate you will be greeted by both cows and foxes.

It’s easy to think that a shrine in a business district won’t have any charm, but since it’s surrounded by office buildings that block the sunlight, the shrine will sometimes appear to be covered in blue shadows, or the light reflected on the windows of the buildings will shimmer. A nice aspect of shrines in business districts is that sometimes they have a variety of faces; sometimes they appear submerged in water, and other times they are radiant and sparkling. Hirakawa Tenmangu is precisely this kind of shrine.

The bullfinches at Hirakawa Tenmangu are decorated with gold paper on their heads. They have big eyes and a face that anyone would think is cute. They are packaged along with rice crackers. It’s a bullfinch that you’ll want to spend the year with, together at home.

(* Please note that at each shrine, the bullfinch charms will no longer be available once they are all sold.)

Text&Photographs by  Ayaha Yaguchi

Writer / editor / illustrator. Born in Osaka. Writes mainly for magazines, the web, and advertisements. Ayaha’s areas of expertise are travel, the outdoors, science, and history. She began traveling in 2013 when she became fascinated by natural spots rich in spiritual power, and in 2020 she obtained her first-class boating license. Her current dream is to visit shrines and temples on remote sea islands.

The post 5 of the Cutest Representations of Tenjin in Tokyo. Travel writer and Shrine Enthusiast Ayaha Yaguchi Chooses. appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Coming from an impoverished upbringing, she often moved house as a child. After succeeding as a writer, and as if to heal her wounds of that time, she planted her roots in the shape of a gorgeous home in Shimoochiai in Shinjuku Ward.

It’s currently the “Fumiko Hayashi Memorial Hall”. The designer of the home was Bunzo Yamaguchi, one of the leaders of the modern Japanese architectural movement, who studied under the Berlin architect Walter Gropius.

It’s a 7-minute walk from the Seibu Toei subway “Nakai Station”. The home of Fumiko Hayashi still stands at the foot of a hill with a solemn atmosphere.

To be honest, she invokes a strong image of poverty, and so regardless of her success I imagined that her home would be more cozy, but the size was astonishing with the area of the property being 900㎡.. ‘Th-this is a mansion!’ I thought.

The quaint slopes and stairs leading up to the entrance make you feel as if you were lost on a small path in Kyoto. The traditional scenery makes you forget you’re in Shinjuku.

Looking down on Fumiko’s house from the top of the hill, it looks like this.

The Shimoochiai area, which used to be an area where many artists gathered to live, is full of quaint slopes. The whole area felt to me like something that could be in a painting itself.

Well then, let’s pay the surprisingly cheap 150 yen entrance fee and head inside.

By the way, this area which is now the entrance used to be the service entrance. The main entrance for guests at the time is currently closed from outside, but you can check it out after entering, so be sure not to miss it. From the main gate to the entrance, you’re surrounded by bushes of Moso bamboo, and the atmosphere feels like an old-fashioned restaurant in Kyoto. It’s a gorgeous approach.

The shape of the house is a combination of two buildings coming together, and I thought it even looked like modern luxury Japanese inns with detached rooms, but really, this was an idea to evade building regulations at the time.

When this house was built around 1941, there was a floor area limit of about 100㎡ per house (during that era, luxury was seen as an enemy) and so a mansion of this size shouldn’t have been built.

By first building a home for her painter husband’s, and then another under Fumiko’s name, they were able to connect them to avoid the regulations. Fumiko, who lived so freely, found a pretty cool way to break the rules.

It’s a beautiful piece of Japanese architecture that will take your breath away no matter what angle you look at it from.

Before building the house, Fumiko bought around 200 texts on architecture, and designed the blueprints and layouts for the home herself. So she was clearly enthusiastic about visiting Kyoto to tour and study old houses. She must have been someone with an incredible sense of beauty in all things, especially so in writing.

The interior is beautiful as well, so you absolutely must check it out. Most of the furniture is fixed, the kitchen is what we’d now call a system kitchen, despite the war at the time the toilet flushes with water, and money has clearly been spent on the other furnishings.

It’s as if Fumiko herself is saying defiantly: Luxury is the enemy?  This is the house of a successful female writer, you got something to say!?

She ordered the carpenter to put printed cotton from India in the closet where futons were kept. It’s a gorgeous piece that seems out of place in a cool and sharp interior design, something that just screams that this is the house of a woman writer.

The concept which Fumiko considered most important was a “house with a north-south-east-west wind.” The wide open porch and large windows on the north side of the house allows for great air flow.

Apparently all of the sunny and comfortable rooms were for family, and she did not like to spend a lot of money on a drawing room. It seems the editors who would come to pick up manuscripts had to wait in the cold and dark north-facing rooms. (Although, the editors that she was fond of were allowed to wait in the warm, sunny rooms).

The cupboard attached to the well polished artificial stone sink is still lovely to this day. The kitchen is another area Fumiko decided to spend money on. Being peculiar about the areas we use water is quite feminine, right?

Almost all of the light fixtures in the house are new, but this one is supposed to be from the time the building was completed.

This study was originally a storage room.

Despite living in such a luxurious home, it’s said Fumiko spent most of her time here. She set up a permanent sleeping space behind her chair, and spent her days writing until she slept, then waking up and writing.

It’s said her premature death could have been caused by her not refusal to turn down work. She worked on an unreal amount of serialized publications. Looking out the window at her beautiful garden must have been one of her ways of relaxing.

The amazing thing about the Fumiko Hayashi Memorial Hall is that you can get a tour from volunteer guides while you view the inside. When I went, I didn’t have much time and so I just quickly looked around in about 15 minutes. The guides will take you around and explain things in great detail for about an hour if you’ve got the time, though. (You can check the official site to see the contents of the tour.)

For me, this was a beautiful house that made me think “This is a mini Kyoto here in Shinjuku!” Why don’t you go and check it out on a day off when the weather’s nice?

See also⇒　Walking around Fumiko Hayashi’s house and the town of traditional fabric dyeing

The post A Walk Through the Home of a Famous Author, Fumiko Hayashi. A Piece of Kyoto in the Heart of Tokyo appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

The majestic shrine, which was constructed around the same time as the Nikko Toshogu, was beautifully carved by master craftsmen of the time.

Mr. Naofumi Totsuka, a curator of the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, kindly explained the meaning of the sculptures and designs to us. They are not only a beauty to behold, but also contain Ieyasu’s wishes and philosophies.

Kunozan, the first Toshogu in Japan, was built in Shizuoka City 19 years before the one in Nikko. The gorgeous shrine is designated as a national treasure and features delicate, beautiful sculptures and tightly-packed drawings on jet-black lacquer.
I wonder how many craftsmen must have worked on it.…… Just thinking about it is overwhelming.

As well as admiring its beauty, understanding the thoughts and feelings that have been poured into the sculptures and patterns is an important part of worshipping Kunozan Toshogu. Mr. Totsuka explained the thoughts and hopes of Ieyasu Tokugawa which fill every corner of the shrine.

■Romon (Two-Story) Gate

Mr. Totsuka：Many people ask if the long-nosed animal in the middle is an elephant, but it’s actually a Baku.

Baku have been described as dream-eating animals, but in Chinese belief systems they are the children of dragons, and are worshipped as spirit beasts.

−−Why is eating iron and copper a symbol of peace？

Mr. Totsuka：In times of war, copper and iron are used in guns and swords, so baku run out of food. It means that when those metals are not used for war, the world is at peace and the baku can eat. For Ieyasu, choosing a baku over strong looking animals such as dragons and lions was ideal. Also, there are actually 4 baku depicted on the Romon. Only one of them is a different color from the others, so try and find it.

■ Worship Hall

Mr. Totsuka：The sculpture most seen by worshippers, the “Sima Wengong (Japanese: Shiba Onko) breaking a jar ” is placed in a visible location in the worship hall. An old story says: ‘Once upon a time, a child playing hide-and-seek fell into a large jar for water. That water jar was extremely important, and while many other children were unsure whether it was okay to break it or not, Shiba Onko broke the jar without hesitation and saved his friend’. It teaches the importance, or value of life.

−−Alongside the baku, there are many other symbols of the wish for peace.

Mr. Totsuka: On the sides of the picture “Shiba Onko breaking a jar”, we find Laozi, Mencius, Confucius and a representation of the saying ‘A horse from a gourd.’ This saying expresses the idea that something is shocking or unexpected.

I think that Ieyasu Tokugawa wanted to communicate these 3 ideas: to place importance on life, to study life, and, in life, to expect the unexpected.

While you can see a large number of these teachings from the outside, the inside of the worship hall, which in the Edo period could only be accessed by the most elite such as aristocrats and top-level samurai, features elegant decorations of celestial maidens and flowers. Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

Even now, it’s not open to the public, but can be accessed for prayer or wedding occasions.

■ Tile Crest of the Shrine

Mr. Totsuka：There’s actually something quite rare on the outside as well. As you can see, the tiles are decorated with the coat of arms of the Tokugawa clan, but there is in fact one spot facing a different direction. Can you see it?

−−I have no idea.

Mr. Totsuka：Look, over there. In the 2nd layer from the top, there are some smaller tile crests in a line. Within the crests depicted on the right hand side, there’s a single one facing a different direction.

−−I have no idea！

−−The craftsmen of the Edo period were so detailed in their work, even with their mistakes…I’m sorry, but, if you hadn’t told me where it was, I never would have realized.

Mr. Totsuka：I think that this wasn’t a mistake, but rather a measure taken to purposefully make the shrine incomplete. If something is finished, all that is left for it is to collapse. I’m sure it’s a kind of good luck charm.

−−Wow, the craftsmen of Edo were so stylish!  To so cunningly sneak in the famous saying “Always be incomplete”!

While I’m sure that each design in Kunozan Toshogu, so full of carvings, has its own meaning, just thinking about it makes me want to look up to the heavens. Why not pay a visit to this wonderful place, and explore these designs for yourself?

・How to get to Kunozan Toshogu

See also
⇒Trip Ideas for Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine Visits and Strawberry Picking

The post Ieyasu Tokugawa, His Thoughts on Peace and the Sculptures of Kunozan Toshogu appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.