The Myth of the Home Sushi Chef

One of the biggest misconceptions is that Japanese people are constantly making sushi at home. While some might dabble in the art of makizushi (rolled sushi) for a special occasion, the idea of whipping up a batch of nigiri for dinner is quite uncommon. The skill, the effort to gather a variety of ingredients, and the preparation time involved are just not everyday fare. Think of it like expecting every American to be a pitmaster – while some are, it’s not the norm.

Why Not Home Sushi?

• Specialized Skill: Crafting perfect nigiri takes years of training. The rice, the fish, the delicate balance – it’s not something you can just pick up easily.

• The Need for a Variety of Fish: Nigiri sushi typically requires 9-10 types of seafood. It’s not easy to prepare these in small amounts at home.

• It’s Cheaper to Eat Out: Preparing 10 types of fish and going through the effort of making sushi at home is much more expensive than eating at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, making it pointless to prepare it at home.

The Everyday Sushi Experience: Beyond the Exquisite

So, if not at home, where do Japanese people get their sushi fix? The answer, overwhelmingly, is restaurants. And contrary to what you might see in glossy travel magazines, most Japanese people aren’t regularly dining at Michelin-starred establishments.

Kaiten-Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi): The King of Convenience

• The Revolving Revolution: Kaitenzushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants are ubiquitous, offering a casual, affordable, and fun dining experience. Plates of different colored items revolve on a conveyor belt for you to pick what you want.

• Price Point Paradise: You can expect to pay around 100-200 yen per plate, making it an accessible meal for everyone.

• Family Fun: Kaitenzushi is popular among families and friends, making it a social and enjoyable outing.

• Famous Chains: Some popular kaitenzushi chains include Sushiro (known for its variety and innovative offerings), Kura Sushi (popular for its interactive games and dishes delivered by a mini-bullet train) and Hama Sushi (a well-balanced chain with a broad menu). They’re not just for budget-conscious diners; they provide a fun and diverse range of options.

• Beyond Basic: While often inexpensive, conveyor belt sushi has come a long way from basic fare. You’ll find everything from classic tuna and salmon to more creative offerings like tempura sushi and even desserts.

Unpretentious Neighborhood Sushi Joints

Beyond the conveyor belt, you’ll find a vast number of smaller, independent sushi restaurants dotted throughout the country.

• The Local Experience: These often family-run establishments provide a more intimate and personalized dining experience than the big chains.

• The Price is Right: A satisfying sushi meal at these spots might cost around 1,000-3,000 yen, making it a good choice for a relaxed evening out.

• Quality Without the Pretense: You will experience fresh and delicious sushi without breaking the bank, and they focus on the quality and taste of the food over unnecessary theatrics.

These low-priced sushi restaurants in residential areas are recently called ‘machi-zushi’ (meaning sushi restaurants in one’s own town) and are booming among the general public.

High-End Sushi: A Rare Treat, Not the Everyday

Now, let’s talk about the high-end sushi restaurants, the ones you see featured in documentaries and Instagram feeds. Yes, they exist, and yes, they are incredibly impressive, but they’re not the norm for the average person in Japan.

The Ginza Experience

• The Pinnacle of Sushi: High-end sushi restaurants, especially those in districts like Ginza in Tokyo, are the equivalent of fine dining establishments.

• Price Point Considerations: Expect to pay around 40,000-50,000 yen (or considerably more) for a set course, and usually requires a reservation.

• Beyond the Plate: The experience at these restaurants is not just about the food; it’s about the ambiance, the chef’s expertise, and the overall ritual of dining.

• Special Occasion: It’s a destination for special occasions, business dinners, or when you really want to indulge.

The Art of Omakase

• Trusting the Chef: Many high-end sushi restaurants offer omakase (chef’s choice), where the chef creates a personalized menu based on the freshest seasonal ingredients.

• Elevated Flavors: The ingredients used in high-end sushi are of exceptional quality, often sourced from specific regions, and the preparation is incredibly precise.

Conclusion: Dispelling Misconceptions and Embracing the Diversity of Sushi

There are primarily two misconceptions that foreigners have regarding sushi in Japan: the idea that Japanese people make sushi at home and the perception that sushi at restaurants is always high-end. However, these are incorrect. We rarely make sushi at home, and we do not always eat high-end sushi.

The author has lived in Europe for the past few years and is often surprised to find that most sushi restaurants only offer tuna and salmon. Our joy of eating sushi comes from the wide variety of 30 to 50 different types of fish and shellfish, and from the deliberation of what to eat today.

If you have the opportunity to visit Japan, please enjoy this wealth of options and experience the diverse world of sushi. It will surely overturn your preconceptions about sushi.

The post Beyond the Michelin Stars: Unraveling the Truth About Sushi in Japan appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Daiji Iwase, editor-in-chief of a web magazine specializing in Champagne and a writer on alcoholic beverage and travel, has selected five wineries in Japan where you can enjoy photogenic scenery and fine cuisine.

――What made you start paying attention to Japanese wine in the first place?

I think it was around 2005. Before then, “Japanese wine” had an image of being a tourist souvenir from the Showa era (1926-1989).
I had a negative impression of Japanese wine and did not think I would go out of my way to order it.

However, when I “had to” taste some of the wines because it was my job, I was pleasantly surprised at how delicious they were. I was shocked to find out that it was not that Japanese wines had not been updated, but that I had not been able to update myself.

Since then, I have considered Japanese wines to be unique among wines from the rest of the world.
At that time, there were still many old-fashioned wines, but in the past five years, I feel that some Japanese wines with truly wonderful characteristics have been introduced to the world as a matter of course.

――So, the level of Japanese wine today is improving rapidly… so in connection with this, what are the current trends?

Japanese wine can be broadly divided into two categories: craft wines made from local grapes, and those that aim for global standards, both of which produce excellent wines nowadays.

At present, wineries are actively trying out difficult varietals and techniques, and various experiments are being actively conducted, which is exciting.
I hope that while they continue to enthusiastically pursue these routes, they will also increase the number of wines that can be drunk easily and be loved by all.

――Finally, what is the appeal of “Japanese wine” from your point of view?

Because it originated in Japan, it goes well with Japanese food. Or should I say, rather than traditional Japanese food, it is more suitable for local cuisine or everyday dining.
Japanese wine producers, even the big ones, are small in scale. Because of this, the wines have an honest, handmade feel to them, and it is easy to see that the producers enjoy their closeness with the product.

The best part of it all is that it’s in a relaxed destination!
Wineries often grow their grapes on spacious slopes, on hills with spectacular views, or with restaurants and tasting corners, making them the perfect travel destination.

5 Wineries in Japan to Travel to and Fill Your Heart, as selected by Daiji Iwase.

1. SAYS FARM

This winery is located on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking Himi Bay, famous for its cold yellowtail; a real taste of winter.
This winery completely overturned my previous knowledge about Japanese wine. Not only the taste and balance of the wine, but also the design is all excellent.
It is a wine resort with lodging facilities and restaurants that anyone can enjoy.

2. Grace Wine

This long-established winery is located in Katsunuma, about two hours by train from Tokyo.
The sparkling wine is made by Ms. Ayana Misawa, a winemaker, using the Champagne method that is highly acclaimed around the world.
The wine made from grapes from the newly opened Akeno vineyard is also excellent.
Many of the wines sell out very quickly, so don’t forget to check out the store when you visit the winery.

3. Tsuno Winery

Tsuno Winery, located in Tsuno City, Miyazaki Prefecture, is recommended for those who want to taste the pairing of fine food and wine while traveling.
While looking out at the clear blue sky and the crystal blue sea, you can enjoy wine pairings with the food of Miyazaki, which boasts an abundance of ingredients from the mountains and ocean.
The highlight is the “Campbell Early Rosé”. It has a good balance of sweetness and freshness, and it is rare to find a wine made from this grape variety that is so lovely and gastronomic.
Speaking of gastronomy, I also recommend the Tamba Winery in Kyoto. This winery also has a restaurant where you can pair wine with local products of Tamba, such as Kyoto vegetables and wild game.
When you visit, be sure to pay attention to the Tana grape variety, which is rare in Japan and is grown on the winery’s own farm.

4. Osa Winery

This winery is owned by a couple who have worked in the restaurant, retail, and liquor industries.
They are now making wine in the city of Otaru. The grapes they use are a local Hokkaido variety, which are pretty, simple, and sparkling. While making the most of these merits, the wine also has the sophistication of northern Italy, which the couple loves.

The design of the wine is also beautiful, and it is now a rare wine that is hard to find nowadays, so you should definitely buy a bottle when you visit, or even several bottles as souvenirs.

5. Chateau Mercian Kikyougahara Winery

Japanese wine is becoming more and more popular because of its small scale and craftmanship. But if you know the power and quality of the big players, you can learn more about the world of Japanese wine.

Chateau Mercian, one of the biggest players in the industry, continues to produce wines that make the most of the charm of the land with the stable quality of its wines, which is the result of techniques cultivated over 140 years and its large harvest. The wineries are located in Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture, and in Mariko and Kikyougahara n Nagano Prefecture.

Among them, the Chateau Mercian Kikokogahara Winery is still proud of its “fantastic Merlot,” which was depicted in the movie “The Usuke Boys“. The first thing to do when you visit this winery is to try the Merlot.
Incidentally, there are many other wineries in the area, so it is fun to visit several of them.

Meanwhile, don’t miss the nearby Chateau Mercian Mariko Winery (Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture).
This winery opened in September 2019, and it was the first Japanese winery to be selected in the World’s Best Vineyards 2020 competition to select the world’s best wineries for wine tourism, ranking 30th in the world and 1st in Asia. You can take a tour here all year round (reservations required).

Daiji Iwase

Wine Magazine Editor-in-Chief and Sake/Travel Writer.

He is also involved in the planning and management of various alcohol-related media and events.

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A lot can be hidden in a drop of sake, not least the history and the romance of the brewer, as well as other strange mysteries…!
Satoshi Tomokiyo is the author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”.
Here, he recommends his five favorite sake breweries.
Let’s follow him on this journey and savor the whole history of this delicious drink!

–What drew you to sake in the first place?

It was about 20 years ago when I first became interested in sake.

At the time, there were still remnants of the “third shochu boom,” and sake was losing its momentum. As the boom began to pick up, I began to include sake brewery tours in my travel plans.

My theory has always been that sake tastes even better when you know the brewer and the background, so I feel that the culture of sake brewery tours has further encouraged people’s interest in sake.

–As a long-time analyst of the industry, what do you think the appeal of sake is currently?

Of course, the sweetness and richness of the flavor from the rice, but in the past 10 to 15 years, there has been a shift in the number of breweries, and new breweries have started brewing sake with new ideas, which is a great way to encounter some fresh inspiration.

–I want to visit a brewery! What is the etiquette for visiting a brewery?

As long as you follow the minimum rules, such as not eating fermented foods on the day of the tour, you should be able to enjoy the tour at your leisure without being too formal about it.

In addition to the sake production process, many breweries have a long history, so be sure to observe the details of the buildings and equipment.

If you are going on an overnight trip, you should definitely ask the brewery for recommendations on places to drink in the area.

They can often tell you about their favorite places that you won’t find in the guide books, and they usually have a large selection of the brewery’s products.
Sake tastes even better when you see the brewing process in action.

5 of the Best Sake Breweries Today, selected by Satoshi Tomokiyo

1. Umegae Shuzo (Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture) / 梅ヶ枝酒造

This brewery’s storehouse was built in 1860 and is a national tangible cultural property. The roof retains some of its old tiles, and it is strengthened by pillars and beams using a method called “netsugi”, making it a very interesting building.

The motto of the brewery is not to rely too much on machines, but to brew sake with the power of delicate human senses. Here you can sample a wide range of products, from ginjo sake to amazake, as well as shochu, gin, and liqueurs.

A cave called “Mukyudo (無窮洞) ” which was dug during World War Ⅱ, is preserved right next to the warehouse.
This former air-raid shelter was dug out and used by teachers and elementary school students of the school that once stood there. The podium, kitchen, and bookshelves were all dug out by hand. Be sure to check out the sake brewery as well.

2.SENKIN (Sakura City, Tochigi Prefecture) / せんきん

Although established in 1806, the current brewer, who is from the 11th generation of this brewing family, has a unique background as a former sommelier. This brewery is characterized by its sake’s sweet and sour taste, which is not typical of Japanese sake, and is rapidly gaining more and more fans. While the building itself is traditional, the sake brewery has adopted a domaine (self-sufficient) style, and expresses the flavors of the region.

3. Yoshino Shuzo (Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture) / 吉野酒造

It is relatively rare to find a brewery that mills its own rice, and the sake brewed with natural water on the premises is really light and full of flavor.

Koshikoi (腰古井)  is a highly acclaimed sake that has won numerous awards, but Ginjo (a premium sake made with natural water and only the best part of the rice , with the outer husks removed) has also garnered many plaudits. The plum wine made with ginjo is also excellent.

4. Matsuuraichi Shuzo (Imari City, Saga Prefecture) / 松浦一酒造

This long-established sake brewery has been operating since 1716 in Imari City, Saga Prefecture, which is also famous for its pottery. There are various types of sake on offer here, from ginjo sake to regular sake, many of which are made from Kyushu-grown sake rice such as “reihou” and “saganohana,” allowing you to fully enjoy the pleasure of local sake.

On the other hand, this brewery is also famous for the Kappa mummy (Kappa is a well known Japanese goblin that resides in ponds and rivers) that is enshrined there. The mummy, which was discovered about 70 years ago during renovation of the main building, probably came from mainland China and is now an important guardian deity of the brewery.
In order to promote the brewery as a “tourist brewery,” about 200 valuable and fascinating ethnic materials, such as old brewing tools and farming equipment, are also on display.

5 Taikoku Shuzo (Uruma City, Okinawa Prefecture) / 泰石酒造

Actually, sake breweries do exist in Okinawa. The original starting point of Taikoku sake brewing came from making shochu from sugar cane after the war. Later, as the company expanded into whiskey and liqueurs, it began making sake using air conditioning and cooling equipment. “Reimei” was launched in the form of purchasing sake rice milled in Kyushu. Nowadays, it is riding the local sake boom and attracts many tourists from the mainland.

The building also differs from other sake breweries in that it is made of concrete. In the past, there have been several incidents where neighbors mistook the steam rising from the brewery for a fire and called the police, an episode typical of Okinawa’s unfamiliarity with sake culture.

Text&Photographs by Satoshi Tomokiyo  ⇒  Twitter

Free Writer,editor. Author of “Cultural History Guide of Sake and Their Breweries /『物語で知る日本酒と酒蔵』”. “Japan Craft Beer Travelogue/『日本クラフトビール紀行』”. “War ruins you must visit at least once/『一度は行きたい戦争遺跡』”. “Sketchy rumors, experience report/『怪しい噂 体験ルポ』” etc.

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The latest trends? The best shops in the spotlight now? Masataka Sasaki, a Ramen Editor who has published many famous books has shared his top 5 ramen shops with us.

−−Why did you start following Ramen?

I liked ramen when I lived in Akita, where I lived until I finished high school, but not so much that I went around searching for new places to eat.

I then moved to Tokyo for university. After I first experienced authentic ramen at a specialty shop in Tokyo, I moved to Ogikubo which is an area with many famous ramen shops, and I started my days immersed in ramen.

Around the mid-1990s, it was the golden age of ramen when there was a “new vintage every year” with many legendary shops as “Aoba”, “Musashi”, “Kujiraken” (all of which opened up in 1996, as part of the legendary 1996 group of ramen shops) opening up and creating new trends.

Witnessing the process of modern ramen being born during this golden age was the starting point for me.

−−Every year was a vintage year! Sasaki-san, for someone who has experienced such excellent times in the past, what’s the attraction for “ramen” now?

Even for the major types of ramen broth, there are soy sauce-based, salt-based, miso, tonkotsu, chicken-bone broth (paitan), dried-sardine based, pork-bone (tonkotsu) seafood broths, and if you factor in the types of noodles, toppings as well, the variations are unlimited.

The more you walk around, you are sure to encounter a new bowl in this unlimited amusement park of ramen.

New shops open one after another and well-known shops continue to improve their flavor, and regional powerhouse shops continue to sharpen their blades. Despite your best efforts to go around to all of the ramen shops you want to visit around Japan and across the world, you probably won’t be able to finish trying them all during your own lifetime.

You may have heard of soup-less ramen (mazesoba) or noodles with buckwheat flour, but even noodle-less ramen is a type of ramen where “no rules is the rule”. If I ever find myself muttering “this isn’t ramen…”, I think it will be my last day as a ramen editor.

−−With a love for ramen as deep as the sea, it is unlikely that Sasaki-san will ever have to retire as a ramen editor. Please take a look at the latest ramen trends!

There are 5 major trends explained in detail.

●Japanese herbs

There are many ramen shops that have started to use Japanese herbs such as ginger and Japanese pepper. Recently, ramen featuring spices as the star ingredient have become popular and while we see many shops serving soup-less tantanmen that uses red chili pepper and Japanese pepper to add spiciness and a sense of numbing, creating bowls of ramen that feature a subtle, yet deep flavor of ginger as well as the refreshing flavor of Japanese pepper are particularly popular with woman.

●Western-style Broth

Recently, there have been many new types of broths appearing such as those made with prosciutto, animal-based ones made using pork or chicken bone and even broths made only with vegetables without using even seafood products such as dried fish or bonito flakes.

You will be surprised by the different impression you will get from each of these pork bone and seafood-based ramen soups in terms of taste and aroma compared to what you’ve tried so far.

●Pure hand-made noodles

There have been thick noodles in the past, but you might be fooled into thinking that your bowl is full of udon noodles, at some of the popular ramen restaurants that are serving very thick, hand-made noodles that have a delicious chew!

●Mini Rice Bowl

Rough and tumble side dishes such as having curry or rice with your ramen are a thing of the past. There are now many shops that serve cute looking mini rice bowls featuring toppings such as lamb confit, pecorino, mouth-watering chicken and clams.

●Hanging Skewer-Roasted Chashu Roast Pork

Chashu roast pork for ramen is typically fatty and voluminous, but around last year, the “hanging skewer-roasted” method appeared. This type of chashu roast pork is full of savory flavor and the slightly smokey taste is addictive.

5 of the Best Ramen Today, selected by Masataka Sasaki

1. King Seimen (Ouji,Tokyo) / キング製麺

The main specialty of the shop is a sophisticated white-dashi (white stock) broth, but the “Sansho (Japanese Pepper) Ramen” is recommended. As you slurp the curly noodles, you will feel the elegant fragrance of Japanese pepper through your nose with a fresh aftertaste. This dish is creating a lot of buzz in the world of Japanese herb-style ramen.

2. SAMAR（Ebisu, Tokyo）/SAMAR（サマル）

his is a variety of ramen served only at lunchtime by the popular shop “Sakana Bal”. The salt-flavored broth is made based on prosciutto enhanced with porcini mushrooms, fragrant vegetables and herbs has an exquisite taste! Enjoy adjusting the flavor to your liking with the tapenade (savory olive paste).

3. Dame na Rinjin(Ningyocho, Tokyo) / 駄目な隣人

This ramen shop features an adventurous broth made with bouillon de legume (vegetable stock) with a high quality soy sauce based seasoning (tare). The oil made with ginger confit creates a taste that will bring a smile to your face.

４．MEN CRY（Hamamatsucho, Tokyo）/MENクライ

You will be surprised when you see the hand-made noodles made with 100% Japanese flour! These unique, chewy noodles are as thick as Hoto noodles in Yamanashi prefecture. They complement the dashi flavored broth very well.  Also recommended are mini rice bowls such as the daily special, rice with raw egg and the marinated egg-yolk rice bowl.

５．Marue Chuukasoba (Sugamo, Tokyo) / 惠中華そば（まるえ中華そば）

Curly noodles swim in a highly-transparent, clear soup. You can enjoy this salt flavored ramen broth which has a distinct brininess. You will also be very satisfied with the hanging skewer-roasted pork, which is full of flavor, fragrant and smokey.

Text&Photographs by Masataka Sasaki   

Ramen editor.

A producer of a wide variety of content regarding ramen and food.  He has edited many books on the topic of ramen and writes a regular column for SanekiBiz.

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Ms. Takako Minoshima is so fascinated by these stone guardians that she even published a book on them. We asked her what they are, and why she is so fascinated by them.

Check out her top five fanatical komainu spots in Japan!

−−First of all, what are komainu anyway?

The official name is “shishi”(a mysterious animal resembling a lion), and “komainu” (a mysterious animal resembling a dog). They are divine stone guardian animals found in the walkways to shrines and at the front of shrines.

From the historic literature, we know that they have been used as furnishings of the nobility since the late Heian period (1100s AD).

They started out as wooden komainu. As they gradually moved outdoors, materials were used that were more resistant to wind and rain, such as stone.

Komainu are made of various materials, but the ones I am following will be the stone komainu on the approaches to the shrine.

−−What is their role?

They are largely believed to protect something precious. Originally, lions and guardian dogs were furnishings placed in front of bamboo blinds by nobles in the Heian period.

They were placed to protect the emperor and other noble people. Perhaps they were also placed in front of shrines and temples to protect the gods.

This is also the main difference between komainu and Shisa (an Okinawan lion or lion-dog statue placed as talisman against evil at entrances and on roofs), which are used to protect people’s homes and villages.

On the whole, komainu are not placed in houses.

−−Why are komainu so attractive?

Before the early Showa period (1926-1989), they were hand-carved by stonemasons, so each piece has its own individuality.

There are also trends in different regions and times, so you can encounter designs with different styles both locally and when you go out. You can find replicas of many of the komainu that were popular in one area in nearby areas, and it is fun to compare them.

In a good way, when you come across a work that has not been copied correctly, you will experience a relaxing feeling that will make you feel at ease and smile without even realizing.

−−For those who would like to start appreciating komainu, what are the main points to look for?

I think the overall shape and the face are the first things you see. In addition, the design of the tail and fur are also unique and fashionable, so please do check them out.

If you like history, you should definitely check out the pedestals. It often says who dedicated them, when, in which city, and who made it, so it’s a great clue to the history of the area.

Searching for the name of the person engraved on the pedestal, I sometimes came across a record of money lending or a connection to a famous person.

The five best unforgetable komainu selected by Takako Minoshima

1.　Shiratori Shrine, Aichi Prefecture. 

This shrine is said to have existed in the Muromachi period (1336 to 1573).
In front of the main shrine, there are “Okazaki style” komainu (donated in 1928).

These are also very attractive. However, what fascinated me most was the unique komainu with marble eyes (donation year unknown) in front of the Mitake Shrine, one of the branch shrines.

The small body is made of concrete, and the pupils of the eyes on the “A” side (literally “A-shape”) are different colors, making this a rather stylish pair.

Their cute, completely unintimidating, appearance is sure to make you feel better.

2. Mukaishima Itsukushima Shrine,  Hiroshima Prefecture.

This is just a short boat ride from the jetty in front of Onomichi Station. At the shrine in Mukaishima there is a water bowl that has long captivated fans of komainu.

The highlight of this bowl (for ritual cleansing of hands and mouth with water when visiting shrines), donated in 1836, is its large spherical shape.

Although the stonemasons of Onomichi were good at carving spheres, their skill in carving such a large and beautiful spherical washbasin is impressive. The lion relaxing on top is also very appealing.

3. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka Prefecture

Kunouzan Toshogu Shrine is known as the first Toshogu Shrine dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa.

In front of the museum in the precincts of the shrine, there is a pair of large, round-faced, dog-like komainu donated in 1647.

It is thought that they were once placed in the form of A-un, but only the “A” form remains. Not only do they have charming faces, but their whole bodies are well proportioned. It is hard to believe that they were made hundreds of years ago, and they have the charm of a plush toy.

4. Kanei Shrine, Kagawa Prefectuire

At the Kanei Shrine, which is famous as a matchmaking shrine and a sacred space with spiritual energy, there are “guardian dogs” that pray for ‘stoppages’ – or the ending or prevention of certain personal problems.

The practice of attaching string to the feet of guardian dogs to pray for stoppages is found in many places, but the string that is attached varies in design from shrine to shrine.

5. Sueyama Shrine. Saga Prefecture.

The Sueyama shrine is located in the production area for Arita-yaki porcelain. The largest bronze komainu in Japan are wonderful, but it’s the huge white and blue Aritayaki-ware guardian dogs that tickle a girl’s fancy.

There are white and blue lanterns and torii gates in the precincts, making it a beautiful place that is typical of a pottery village.

Many of the gifts are also made of ceramic. It’s hard to decide which of these refreshing white and blue items to buy.

Text&Photographs by  Takako Minoshima

Writer, web editor, and komainu enthusiast. She is a member of the Japan Sandou Komainu Research Society and runs a Facebook group called “The Komainu Appreciation Society 狛犬さんを愛でる会“.
Author of “Komainu Sanpo / 狛犬さんぽ ” (supervised by Mr. Akimasa Kawano, published by Graphic-sha Publishing Co., Ltd.).

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He was a master of the craft who ruled over the architectural world of the Showa Era, and was referred to as “The Kenzo Tange of the East, and Togo Murano of the West”.

The Nissay Theatre in Hibiya Tokyo, often mentioned as one of Murano’s masterpieces, occasionally holds free architectural tours, so I decided to drop by.

A guide kindly explained a great deal about Murano’s nearly paranoid-level commitment to his style, so I’ll be introducing this unique architectural space while adding what I learned.

First, the entrance.

It’s rumored that some of the mountains in Spain disappeared because of the sheer amount of beautiful, white marble used. Murano was very particular about eliminating the border between the floor and the reception counter in the photo, and so it looks almost as if it has grown up from the floor.

From trash bins and stands to ash trays, nearly everything located within the theatre was originally designed by Murano.

And the red carpet of the stairs leading to the theatre floor is not actually placed on the floor, but the marble has been hollowed out and the carpet embedded. (!)

The handrail with its elegant, delicate curves, was created with the image of “a gentleman reaching out to a lady.”

One of Murano’s famed architectural pieces, the elegant spiral staircase.

Apparently, Murano was very particular about the back of this spiral staircase being perfectly smooth, and didn’t overlook even the smallest of irregularities.

If you touch it, it really is incredibly smooth, and you can almost hear the groans of the tired workers from the time it was made.

The ceiling inside the theatre is akoya pearl oyster, and the walls are glass mosaic tiles. Together they create a wide-open, dreamy space that almost makes you dizzy.

It is said that no matter how hard the skilled craftsmen worked, the task of sticking the tiny pieces of baked glass onto the wall only progressed about 10cm(3.9in) per day.

And apparently, during the final check, Murano was displeased with this corner of the theatre door marked in the photo and personally added a small accent. From the eyes of an amateur, the need for the accent is a complete mystery…

When looking at the way the chairs are aligned, perhaps a number of people feel it’s a little “insane” or “like a nightmare.”

Murano was famous as an extreme perfectionist. When taking a tour of another of his works, the Meguro Ward General Government Building, a guide said that Murano looked up at the ceiling 7 floors above himself and said “I need to move that 10cm to the right…” or something along those lines. (That eyesight is nothing to laugh at, either…!)

I asked the guide, “Weren’t there any craftsmen at the time devastated after hearing that?” to which he replied, “Well, he was a god, so…” It seems everyone at the time followed Murano unwaveringly.

The pure passion and desire to create something truly good along with an extraordinary level of perseverance created a piece of architecture which is still cherished today.

That being said, the ‘perfect’ structure originally envisioned by the master Murano has been partially altered due to unavoidable circumstances such as creating a barrier-free space, the addition of LED lighting, etc.

Although I’m not personally connected to the architecture, even I thought “Murano must be rolling over in his grave over these changes…” and felt a bit worried. If you stop by sometime, I recommend you stop and take the time to take in all the details of the building. I think it deserves to be a world heritage site.

The number of buildings left by Togo Murano is decreasing, but some remain, so if you ever travel around Japan you should definitely add them to your list of sights to see.

The post Hibiya’s “Nissay Theatre”, Designed by Showa’s ‘Architecture God’ Togo Murano appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

Kyushu is located in southern Japan and is known for its mild climate.

It is also a hot spring country with many famous hot springs, including Beppu, a place with one of the highest densities of hot springs in the world.

The level of food is generally high, and there are many gourmet dishes such as tonkotsu ramen (made from boiled pork bones) and Nagasaki chanpon (a dish of noodles, seafood and vegetables) that have spread throughout Japan.

There were many Christians in the area, and the churches of the Goto Islands have recently been registered as a World Heritage Site.

In the Edo period (1603-1867), Nagasaki was the only city in Japan that was allowed to trade with Europe, and it has a unique foreign culture. Castella, an updated version of the traditional Portuguese Pão de Castela sponge cake, is a local delicacy of the city.

Nagasaki, along with Hiroshima, was the site of the atomic bombing, and the Peace Park tells the sad history of the bombing to this day.

If you like ancient history, you may want to visit the Yoshinogari ruins in Saga.
Incidentally, Kansai and Kyushu are candidates for the location of the Evil Horse Kingdom, which is said to be the greatest mystery in ancient history.

There are also many places where myths have been set, such as Takachiho Gorge in Miyazaki, where the legend of the first landing of the gods remains.

Kagoshima, which led the new government forces along with Choshu (now Yamaguchi Prefecture) in the civil war at the end of the Edo period, has a glorious history of many military victories, but it also bears the scars of its defeat in Japan’s last civil war, the Seinan War.

The largest city is Fukuoka, which has many tasteful specialty stores that are worth the trip from Tokyo. Since many Japanese celebrities are from Kyushu, it is recognized as a place of beautiful men and women.

Train travel through the mountains, along the sea and past many rivers is also popular, and there are many highly rated tourist trains such as the luxury cruise train “Nanastuboshi”, the SL Hitoyoshi, and the Hisatsu Line with its express trains Kawasemi and Yamasemi.
Kagoshima, the southernmost island, has islands such as Amami Oshima and Yoron Island, which have beautiful beaches on a par with Okinawa.

If you like

Shopping:

Kyushu is often called the “Kingdom of Pottery” because of its many ceramic production areas. There are many kilns in Karatsu, Arita, Hasami, and Onta.

Outdoor activities:
Trekking on the plateau in Aso, Kirishima and Ebino. Yakushima Island is registered as a World Natural Heritage site, and many people enjoy mountain climbing on Kyushu’s highest mountain of 2,000 meters.
In Amami Oshima, scuba diving and canoeing in the virgin mangrove forests are popular.

Hot springs:
Beppu, Yufuin, Kirishima, Takeo and Ureshino are just a few of the many famous hot springs.

Gourmet food:
Hakata ramen, motsu-nabe (hot pot stew made with offal, vegetables and often miso), and mizutaki (a dish of boiled chicken and vegetables), Kumamoto horse-meat sashimi, Miyazaki chicken nanban (a stew with chilli peppers and Welsh onions), Kagoshima  kurobuta pork,  and Nagasaki chanpon (a dish of noodles, seafood and vegetables) are just a few of the many specialties that are popular throughout Japan.

The post Kyushu Region – Travel Guide appeared first on Trip Planner Japan.

5 of the cutest representations of Tenjin in Tokyo

It’s been 7 years since I started visiting shrines during the “Goshuin boom” (when tourists flocked to shrines and temples to collect each institution’s unique commemorative stamp).
From Inari shrines to Hachiman shrines, Yasaka shrines and Hikawa shrines, there are many shrines with the same name throughout the country, but I believe the easiest to understand and wander are the Tenjin shrines.

Shrines with names like Tenjin, Tenmangu, and Kitano are all within the same category of “Tenjin shrines.” Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Daizaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are especially famous.

These shrines are dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, whose symbols include plum trees, bronze statues called “rubbing cows” that visitors rub for health and good luck, and sweets sold in front of the shrine gate.

In older areas of town where Tenjin shrines are located, there are often shops selling famous sweets like umegae mochi (a sweet grilled dumpling filled with red bean paste) and tenjin kashi (sweets made of sugar and molded into auspicious shapes, such as plum blossoms or Sugawara no Michizane himself), so memories of visits to a Tenjin shrine are often paired with those of sweet treats.

In addition, those who are familiar with Tenjin know of the shrines’ “hidden mascot.”
On January 25^th every year, a day known as “the first Tenjin day of the year,” a ritual called “Usokae*” is held at Tenjin shrines nationwide. During this ritual, the shrines sell wooden carvings of bullfinches. Some shrines sell out of these carvings in the blink of an eye, so I feel lucky whenever I encounter these bullfinches.

* A Shinto ritual that ousts bad luck and invites good luck through the exchange of wooden bullfinch figurines. The Japanese word for “bullfinch” is uso, which is also the word for “lie.” The word tori means both “bird” and “take.” Therefore, by exchanging bullfinches, one transforms the misfortunes of the previous year into “lies” and “takes” good fortune in exchange.

Without further ado, I’ll introduce my five recommended Tenjin shrines in Tokyo. Since I just introduced the notion of the first Tenjin day of the year, I’ll talk about some shrines that are very popular during this time and what their bullfinch figurines are like.

Kitano is to Kyoto as Kameido is to Tokyo!
Kameido Tenjin Shrine

When discussing Tenjin shrines in Tokyo, one cannot leave out this shrine.
The moment you pass through the large torii gate and climb the moon bridge, you will see the wisteria trellis and majestic shrine before you, and the Tokyo Sky Tree on your left. Right away you will see views that will make you glad that you came.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and it’s fun to visit not only the Tenjin shrine, but also the Benzaiten, Utaki, and Hanazono shrines that are also on the premises.

By the way, at Kameido Tenjin, the names of the plum tree varieties are hung on each trunk. There are numerous varieties of plum tree, and they are like an idol group; when the trees start to bloom, it’s fun to look for the variety that you like best.

On your way home, be sure to stop by the historic confectionary Funabashiya and try the famous kuzumochi.

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Kameido Tenjin’s bullfinches are small and cute little figurines. There are seven different sizes, and you can get a small one for 600 yen. They’re the kind of charms that you’ll find yourself buying a lot of as souvenirs for your loved ones.

If a 3D miniature were made, it would definitely be popular!
Gojoten Shrine

This is a shrine nestled on the banks of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno. It was founded 1,900 years ago.

The legendary prince Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have been the first to worship here when he passed through Ueno on his way to subdue rebels living in Japan’s eastern provinces. Yamato Takeru offered gratitude for a blessing from the god of medicine, and therefore the shrine is said to have the power to heal illness.

The highlight of the shrine are its grounds, which would be interesting as a 3D-printed miniature. The spacious and bright Gojoten Shrine and the small and mysterious Hanazono Inari Shrine are almost stacked on top of one another like bunk beds.

Gojoten and Hanazono Inari are connected by stairs, and part of the shrine’s appeal is the ability to climb up and down and cross back and forth between the two spaces, which have a totally different feel from one another.

The bullfinch carvings sold at Gojoten Shrine are concealed inside envelopes, so you just have to go for it and pick one. Most of them have silver paper decorating their heads, but a few of them have gold paper decorations.

I like this playfulness from a shrine that otherwise seems very serious.

Get lost in photogenic Edo
Yujima Tenjin Shrine

This is a shrine that makes you wonder whether time and space have twisted back on themselves. Although unmistakably located in the current Reiwa Era, this is a mysterious place where you can catch glimpses of the dashing men and women of the Edo Period among the scenery, as through thin curtains of time have overlapped.

On sunny days, the road approaching the shrine is lined with shops, so I bought some sweet fried buns for 150 yen each (it’s impossible to eat just one) and ate them on the temple grounds.

I gave my greetings to the spirit of Michizane and rubbed the metal “rubbing cow” statue.

It’s also possible to worship at the Sasatsuka Inari Shrine on the same grounds, and at Togakushi Shrine, where the god of sports, Ame no Tajikarao, is enshrined. On your way home, you can purchase daifuku as a souvenir at the nearby confectionary Tsuruse.

Yushima Tenjin’s bullfinch charm is a little unusual; it’s shaped like a stick and looks as though it’s just sprouted up out of the ground. The cute red face makes it look as if the bullfinch drank some of the gods’ sacred sake.

A little-known but spectacular spot
Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine

This Tenjin shrine has the best view! It’s a small shrine known only to a few, about ten minutes’ walk from the LaQua hot spring spa behind Korakuen Station, but visitors can experience the extraordinary here.
The shrine’s torii gate is an entrance to another world. Climb the shadowy stairs, and the shrine grounds begin at the top. A figure of a cow that has become white and fluffy from all the fortune slips tied to it will welcome you.

Next to the torii are a pair of guardian dog statues, and inside the torii are two “rubbing cow” statues. What’s cute about the cow statues is that they have been rubbed and patted by so many visitors that their horns have been worn away.

There is a rock on the left side of the grounds, facing the shrine, where shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo sat. To think, the illustrious Yoritomo came here! In fact, Minamoto no Yoritomo built this shrine while on an expedition in eastern Japan, in gratitude for the god of learning’s blessing and divine message. Heading back from the shrine, you can see a wonderful view from the top of the stairs of the piercing blue sky and the town below.

The bullfinch from Ushi Tenjin Kitano Shrine comes in a wooden box, wrapped in soft paper. From its chubby appearance, it looks like it will bring good luck.

Where the cows and foxes all stare
Hirakawa Tenmangu

The first think I think when I visit Hirakawa Tenmangu is, “So many cows!” There are five “rubbing cow” statues. There is also an Inari shrine on the grounds, so when you pass through the torii fate you will be greeted by both cows and foxes.

It’s easy to think that a shrine in a business district won’t have any charm, but since it’s surrounded by office buildings that block the sunlight, the shrine will sometimes appear to be covered in blue shadows, or the light reflected on the windows of the buildings will shimmer. A nice aspect of shrines in business districts is that sometimes they have a variety of faces; sometimes they appear submerged in water, and other times they are radiant and sparkling. Hirakawa Tenmangu is precisely this kind of shrine.

The bullfinches at Hirakawa Tenmangu are decorated with gold paper on their heads. They have big eyes and a face that anyone would think is cute. They are packaged along with rice crackers. It’s a bullfinch that you’ll want to spend the year with, together at home.

(* Please note that at each shrine, the bullfinch charms will no longer be available once they are all sold.)

Text&Photographs by  Ayaha Yaguchi

Writer / editor / illustrator. Born in Osaka. Writes mainly for magazines, the web, and advertisements. Ayaha’s areas of expertise are travel, the outdoors, science, and history. She began traveling in 2013 when she became fascinated by natural spots rich in spiritual power, and in 2020 she obtained her first-class boating license. Her current dream is to visit shrines and temples on remote sea islands.

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If you’re traveling in Japan, a railway trip is something I am sure you would enjoy.

Japanese railways are famous worldwide for being on time, so much so that an apology is broadcast if a train is just two minutes late. But this almost neurotic degree of precision is not the only reason they’re famous.

If you take a ride on local lines that use trains with just two carriages, you will pass beautiful beaches, mountains, and tranquil countryside. You will surely encounter the kind of Japanese scenery to be found in Ghibli films.

In Japan, trains run far and wide across the entire country, and there are “train nerds” in abundance to go with them: enthusiasts who, for their sheer variety, can hardly be compared to their to their fellow train enthusiasts around the world.

There are people that just love riding trains, those that love taking photos of them, those that simply enjoy listening to their different chimes and whistles, those that research the interiors, exteriors, and equipment of the carriages, those that love to collect tickets and railways merchandise, those that enjoy researching their timetables, those that love the special lunchboxes on sale at major stations across the country, and more.

There is a name for each and every one of these types of obsessions, from Toritetsu (people that love taking photos of trains), to Noritetsu (people that love riding trains). In recent times, young female fashion models and teen icons have confessed to being train nerds, and the idea that railways are only a hobby for men has changed.

In the inner-city area, there is more often a prevailing perception of trains as mere modes of transport to carry the tired population to work and back home each day. But in more rural areas, you will find people obsessed with railways, enjoying their journeys with their camera and train timetable in hand.

Buying some beer and a lunchbox at the station, and gazing out of the window while enjoying your meal, is nothing short of paradise.

 

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In fact, railway companies in Japan do not simply seek to provide a mere means of transport. Instead, they set out to create an all-around railway experience every day.

Each railway company has tried out various unique selling points: including a sake sommelier on a local train, creating an almost bar-like atmosphere, and a special Shinkansen with the concept of a “moving modern art museum”.

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One railway company hired a world famous architect and winner of The Pritzker Architecture Prize to design the interiors of their carriages. Another found a Michelin-starred chef to design its menus. There is never a shortage of railway-related topics to talk about.

Just why are there so many different types of train nerds here in Japan? How about taking a train trip in Japan and finding out for yourself?

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In Japan, people don’t take their partner to parties hosted by their company. In American and European movies, high-school students go in couples to their proms. Japan doesn’t have this tradition.

The Japanese think it is strange when a First Lady works in an official capacity alongside her husband. To the Japanese mind, presidents and prime ministers are elected but their spouses are not. First Ladies, then, should have little to do with their husband’s business.

In Japan, negative social pressures around being alone are lower than in western countries. The lack of stigma for going solo promotes more of a culture of solitude in Japan. In this country, the number of single-person households is over 35%, and 70% of unmarried men and 60% of unmarried women do not have a partner.

Now, the “super solo”culture in Japan is rising.
The “Ohitorisama” movement has become very popular recently. “Ohitorisama” means something like “party for one.”

Restaurants, karaoke places, and hotels offer a variety of offerings for “Ohitorisama.”
Many hotels are optimized for solo travelers.

Capsule hotels( pod hotels) are one of Japan’s best known and unique types of accommodation.

For people who find these too small for relaxation, another option is the Japanese “business hotel” – originally designed for single guests on business trips. Although the rooms are small, they have everything you need, including showers and toilets. You can’t find them in the countryside, but you will find them in most large cities.

Camping alone has also become a booming trend. Japan may be the easiest country in the world for being alone. It may look like a lonely country from a western perspective, however, there is a carefree aspect to it.

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